robdyck

We ran out of coffee...yesterday!! So I also haven't had enough. Post the plan please I believe the issue would be with the foundation wall default and platform default.

Roof / Structure / Roof Layers / uncheck Use Room Ceiling Finish

I believe what I'm trying to say is that I don't always read the post very closely! Geez...tired eyes. I think from the tests it's clear that Chief isn't actually producing a different quality pdf from a camera view based on the dpi setting.

@Elliot I can tell you with certainty, that higher DPI makes file sizes way larger on my computer. If you're not experiencing that, then great! Like you mentioned, the extra clarity is helpful for smaller devices. I would however just suggest keeping any eye on those file sizes to see if you start to notice any changes. And FWIW, I've found that anything over 600 isn't necessary on a pdf...that's just my opinion / experience. Don't pay any attention to me today!

This is easier than you think. Step 1..don't use a live view. Step 2, ctrl-c the camera from as-built then ctrl-alt-v in the new plan. Send both to layout. If you're gonna crop them in layout...crop them the same. Easy-peasy.

Canadian codes are very similar and so is the inconsistency in application throughout different jurisdictions. In some places, the inspectors will (correctly) call for structural engineering for all exterior load-bearing walls exceeding 3.6m (≈12') in height and in some places they completely ignore it and builders can do whatever they fee like doing.

Not material regions, but what I did for a mitered corner on wood siding was to use a corner board, that's super small. 1/8x1/8 is what I used...matte black finish.

That's how a wall elevation camera works. Instead, you'll want to use a backclipped section view.

Ditto.

I've used a valley truss base and then used trusses to display as rafters. I remove the bottom chord in the truss detail. I'm not sure about material reporting that way...I haven't looked into that. To avoid having 2 rafters as part of the same truss, just use a truss for half, then copy /reflect it over the center.

Use the object information panel to group the info you want into less columns. Then you won't have the wasted paper issue that you get with Chief's schedule format. 1 schedule and a bit of copying and cropping in layout.

@mtldesigns I think it's time for us to get the plan reviewer on a Zoom and see if we can't get this figured out. What time works best for y'all?

I'm just saying this may explain the reasoning. Maybe, maybe not, how would I know?:) When the Insulated Concrete Wall is used as an exterior wall, in order for the Fire Resistance Rating to remain valid from both sides of the wall, the gypsum wallboard on the exterior face of the exterior wall may be substituted with minimum 25 mm thick concrete or masonry mechanically fastened to the supporting Insulated Concrete Wall independent of the EPS insulation.

And take a look at what you get in plan view with this symbol. I quit!! 3-PANEL PATIO DOOR.calibz

Yeah...about that...to get my panel offset, I used 2 panels with no jamb or casing, and 1 "fixed" panel that's recessed. Then when you mull them, the casing is recessed, and if you unselect that...it pulls the opening unit away from the others. That's why I made a symbol from the 3 panels.

And GEEEEEEEEZ. Materials!! Easy enough to place 3 panels and make your own door symbol, but if you want proper material control for inside vs outside you pretty much need to build every piece like you're in the factory!

Ok, close enough, right? I just can't open this door for certain view types...and I still get Chief's gorgeous sill! And don't get me started on the jamb material issues. Why can a window have separate materials for the frame and trim, but not a door for the jamb and trim (unless you spec a molding)??

I completely agree with this Joe, but dangit it's difficult to make the door I wanted! I thought it'd be easy to use 3 separate door panels with no jamb or casing, and a separate doorway with the jamb and casing, then mull them. But it's too difficult to control the door panel inset so that the 2 fixed panels are, let's say centered on the main layer, and the opening panel is to the exterior of those panels.

This is what you want to provide. Read Note #4 (near the end) and that will explain why they want 2 layers of 5/8" at the exterior walls. https://www.nudura.com/media/1169/nudura-r21415-bxuvcwo12-cdn-frr-listing-2014.pdf

It doesn't! You may need to be in discussion with the permitting authority so they can explain their perspective as to why the EPS insulation covering your 2 hour wall (the concrete core) needs such a high level of protection. If the building were built with CMU, or cast-in-place concrete, would an exterior insulation layer of XPS or EPS require the same level of protection? I'm not sure where this building is, but a 1 hour wall is all that's required, correct? And, most 6" ICF's have a 2-4 hour rating with the added benefit of the protective layer being continuous (no gaps, construction joints, etc.). I can tell you from my own experience in several jurisdictions in Canada that many inspectors just treat ICF differently due to a lack of familiarity. There's just something about the insulation and lightweight block idea that makes them forget that it's a solid concrete wall!! I'd recommend an in-person meeting if possible and make sure that you contact Nudura in advance. They may have even more documentation available to present to the permitting official.

Not here. Or maybe you researched manufacturers in Western Canada:) So in our region, many mfrs have developed a system (to provide an affordable alternative to Nana Wall) where multiple panels are positioned within a single frame. The fixed panels are adjacent to and connected to each other and the frame with an interlocking seal...no mullions. The image I originally posted is actually from a tech manual.

Thanks Joe, but I need to show 2 as fixed, and 1 opening...left or right, but not middle.

Does anyone know if Chief can show a patio door like the one shown in the image? And if so...how? Chief always puts the opening unit in the middle And if you use a 2 / 1 combination, you can't specify the opening unit all the way to one side.

That's Gold, Perry, Gold!

@DH7777 the molding weren't generating because your soffit is running through and past walls. Use separate soffits that cleanly butt up to the drywall. I was wrong about the auto-molding pickup on soffits. You can tell I don't use them often! Here's an image showing the soffits, all separate, all butting up to drywall.