GeneDavis

I have been using SU since the stone age. I've plug-ins galore, use it with rendering apps, and can model just about any house including all its fixtures and furniture. I had all those SU skills coming into Chief and started with the pre-X version 10. I still prefer it to Chief if I want to do something in 3D, simply because I find it faster due to my SU skillset. It has kept me from fully using Chief's 3D modeling tools. That all said, Chief has all the tools necessary to do all the totally-to-scale detailing you need to do, and the string of posts above describes all that, and well. But I gotta ask, how often in your work, do you need to draw details of moldings and millwork items that will require molding knives cut, patterns made, etc., and therefore require shop drawings done with precision? One might say, "it's required in historical replications," but in my experience with that, the shops are given physical samples of existing parts to replicate, not drawings.

Away from PC right now, but tried doing a simple 20' square box house with same window corner and got same problem. Casements, 30" w x 48" h, force into corner and edit offsets to 3.75" both ways, between-pair separation 3.5". I built two houses with this config, 3.5" corner post in 2x6 wall framing. EDIT: Incorrecto! The config works in a plain box house situation. See pic. It is the wall intersect that must be doing it.

I did this house model as an exercise, using a for-sale plan, the web page showing plan views and many inside and outside images. The wall in question is shown in the images attached. Plan is attached also. The psolid out in the air away from the corner is a start at manually patching the whole thing, but why do I have to? NSB_Cottage_1725.plan

Have you looked at all the layers in the framing section?

Have you used the HELP function in Chief, that explains all the features of the window spec dialog, and then tried things out, changing settings to see results? If not, then why not start now?

Rhymes with quiche, n'est ce pas?

I prefer recessed as the term for the ceiling feature. A web search turns up a lot of people using the spelling "trey." Some dummy says it comes from French and I am sure the dummy has it confused with Spanish. Let's face it, builders and real estate agents aren't purists when it comes to architectural terminology. But kudos to Chief for bringing us the tools to do this.

If the cab is to truly be a single, it's gonna get built as a single box with faceframe, not as three cabs ganged together, so if this were my project, that is how I would model it. You can get the true look you want by fiddling with the stile and rail widths and overlays and reveals. You'll give yourself a nice course in modeling cabs by Chief, when you do this, so be sure to explore around and play with it, end panels, toeboard recess options, and all. If you don't know the details of how these are made, here is April to show you how, just like in a pro shop. And show us your result!

Looks as if you might want to edit either the roof pitch, roof height, or overhang length of that cross-roof gable at the far end if you want fascia heights to match.

Can the cab really be made as a unit? Can you make it as a single in Chief? See the recent thread about a 2 sink vanity. We need more info to be able to help.

Rob, by now you probably have figured this out. One cannot generate a brick ledge unless the brick layer of the wall is designated EXTERIOR in the wall layer spec. In the image below, you can see that I have the 3-5/8" brick and the 1-3/8" air gap both in that exterior layer group. Generating the foundation gives me the proper and as-specified 5" deep ledge. To get the dimensions in plan view to pull from the outside of brick (and foundation) you select the brick layer as the one for dimensions, as shown.

Take a screencap of your wall def dialog and show it here. Bet you have the framing as your main layer. Change the wall def by grouping everything as the main layer and then do auto ext dims again. Show us the result.

Chief is dimensioning to the outside of whatever layer, in your wall specification, is defined as the main one. It is finding walls, not slab edges.

OK I get the blocking. I don't do these as a single unit, so the single-cab thing isn't something I'd do. Wouldn't one just do a comment about two sinks in the cab schedule? My plans don't specify or schedule out plumbingware, so I guess I just didn't understand the specifics here.

What is the blocking about? I drew a single basecab, edited it to 72 width, fiddled with the front specs to get a 28 wide opening at each end, placed a sink, moved it away from center, placed a second sink freestanding and moved it into place, and I think I am done. Did not do the work to edit the stack at the center into a 3 or 4-drawer array, but the sinks are there where needed.

Well maybe yes, Michael, but select>click>select>click>select>click is what it takes me in my neanderthal setup without hotkeys, to extend a cad line or framing element. Select>click-hold>drag>release is faster. And aren't we talking about faster?

Productivity? In Chief CAD, one selects the line with a click, selects EXTEND command, then selects the line to be extended to the first, and the line extends. Three mouse moves to select and click. Two, maybe, if one has a hotkey for EXTEND. Clicking a wall and then dragging its end to extend it to the desired wall intersect seems faster to me, than if we had the means to extend with the command we have in CAD. In what floor-plan-drawing scenario would one have a number of unconnected walls, interior or exterior, needing to extend-connect to a single other wall? Am I missing something here? Because extending in CAD (or in framing) using the FENCE tool is quite productive, but I cannot imagine a floor plan-drawing scenario with a bunch of walls needing to be extended.

No tilt to the baseline. Pitch is negative 5:12 from high edges.

Here is a single roof plane on a 24x24 plan, pitch set to 4", baseline angle set to -10 degrees. Its mirror image is all that's needed to complete your desired shape. Your pitch and baseline angle can be changed to suit.

I built this one manually, and am OK with the result, except that the fascia and shadowboards don't miter properly. It is a tiny thing, so I just ignore it.

Edit your truss envelope so as to get the ledger notch. Frame the ledger by hand, and same for the blocking. Chief does a lot for us using the spec dialogs, but for this, you gotta do a little yourself.

In my Win10 setup I find I have to do a restart to correct that, even with the Win toolbar set to hide.

Zip the .layout file and attach it, and I or someone else will print to .pdf and then post the result. If it's under the size limit, it may attach without need for the zip. Try that, first. You won't get help from the ghoster, but you will from us.

Well. Mr Tiny House, I think you have likely lost most of us here at the forum, who in future will see a post from you and click right past. Any quick foray into Chief's HELP dialogs when exploring the dimension defaults setup would have exposed the term "secondary" which you gotta admit is getting near your preferred term of "dual." So dual off, guy.

Here is two room house I quickly sketched. I selected the interior wall. Look at the picture. And fill out your signature (if you are a Chief Premium user) so we know. If using Home Designer or something else, find the appropriate forum to post your question.