GeneDavis

OK I get the blocking. I don't do these as a single unit, so the single-cab thing isn't something I'd do. Wouldn't one just do a comment about two sinks in the cab schedule? My plans don't specify or schedule out plumbingware, so I guess I just didn't understand the specifics here.

What is the blocking about? I drew a single basecab, edited it to 72 width, fiddled with the front specs to get a 28 wide opening at each end, placed a sink, moved it away from center, placed a second sink freestanding and moved it into place, and I think I am done. Did not do the work to edit the stack at the center into a 3 or 4-drawer array, but the sinks are there where needed.

Well maybe yes, Michael, but select>click>select>click>select>click is what it takes me in my neanderthal setup without hotkeys, to extend a cad line or framing element. Select>click-hold>drag>release is faster. And aren't we talking about faster?

Productivity? In Chief CAD, one selects the line with a click, selects EXTEND command, then selects the line to be extended to the first, and the line extends. Three mouse moves to select and click. Two, maybe, if one has a hotkey for EXTEND. Clicking a wall and then dragging its end to extend it to the desired wall intersect seems faster to me, than if we had the means to extend with the command we have in CAD. In what floor-plan-drawing scenario would one have a number of unconnected walls, interior or exterior, needing to extend-connect to a single other wall? Am I missing something here? Because extending in CAD (or in framing) using the FENCE tool is quite productive, but I cannot imagine a floor plan-drawing scenario with a bunch of walls needing to be extended.

No tilt to the baseline. Pitch is negative 5:12 from high edges.

Here is a single roof plane on a 24x24 plan, pitch set to 4", baseline angle set to -10 degrees. Its mirror image is all that's needed to complete your desired shape. Your pitch and baseline angle can be changed to suit.

I built this one manually, and am OK with the result, except that the fascia and shadowboards don't miter properly. It is a tiny thing, so I just ignore it.

Edit your truss envelope so as to get the ledger notch. Frame the ledger by hand, and same for the blocking. Chief does a lot for us using the spec dialogs, but for this, you gotta do a little yourself.

In my Win10 setup I find I have to do a restart to correct that, even with the Win toolbar set to hide.

Zip the .layout file and attach it, and I or someone else will print to .pdf and then post the result. If it's under the size limit, it may attach without need for the zip. Try that, first. You won't get help from the ghoster, but you will from us.

Well. Mr Tiny House, I think you have likely lost most of us here at the forum, who in future will see a post from you and click right past. Any quick foray into Chief's HELP dialogs when exploring the dimension defaults setup would have exposed the term "secondary" which you gotta admit is getting near your preferred term of "dual." So dual off, guy.

Here is two room house I quickly sketched. I selected the interior wall. Look at the picture. And fill out your signature (if you are a Chief Premium user) so we know. If using Home Designer or something else, find the appropriate forum to post your question.

Be sure and open the breaker before trying this!

I changed the glass in on of the pendants to "lighting white" and moved the light source down to 55" so it is inside the shade, not above it. I also set the number of light fixtures to be on to 100, from 20.

The ones in the kitchen? OK for me.

You drew a one room house. House area is measured to outside of walls, not middle or inside. Check with your local jurisdiction to find how property records are done for taxation, for bank lending, and in doing building permitting. Real estate goes the same way, to outside of building lines. Room figures are typically given in inside wall to wall dimensions, not in areas.

Putting these 3D birdseye view of a floor on the CDs seems all the rage. Look at all the Chief sample plans. How does one get the best resolution? I bring up the view in Chief, carefully orient it, and then export a picture. Importing into layout, I don't see the resolution I would like.

That function is available in other CAD packages but in Chief you need to work around it with a patch. In the two images, you can see the dimension as generated, the patch, and the patch moved to cover the true dimension.

Try it yourself. Go into a wall detail with whatever dimension default you want to use, turn off the framing finds, and you'll see you cannot get a dimension pulled. Then draw two vertical parallel CAD lines and dimension with end to end or baseline. Now pull OFF THAT dimension to snap dims to other points. It'll find all the stud edges, when it would not before. It's like the starter in making bread.

Well excuse me! That was it! But the big question remains, which is with the preference for framing find (edge or center) OFF, why does it start to find edges or centers when one begins a string using CAD lines?

That's not it.

The only kind that works is point to point. No end to end, no baseline, no running. I can do it if I "kickstart" things by drawing a cad line and pulling a dimension from the CAD line, but without that kickstart, Chief CAD will not pull a dimension. Try it yourself. Draw a wall, frame it, open up the wall detail, and try drawing some stud to stud horizontal dimensions.

Each of those is done with a wrapped molding. Note: Attach your images, don't attach a link that must be downloaded.

That "door height" is actually the door opening height. Chief does not give you door heights. Play around with cabinets and take section cuts, use the measure tool, and you'll get up to speed on what to do. Some of us use the faceframed approach to do frameless cabinets, setting the "separation" (i.e. faceframe stiles) width at 3/4", and the overlay at 11/16". Customize your verticals however you want, but I set things to my wall cabs have a top reveal of 1/8" and a bottom of zero. Basecabs top reveal is 3/8" and bottom is zero. You back into these numbers setting separation sizes and overlays.

Wouldn't one, after changing pitch of a built roof, just take a section and measure how much it should be raised or dropped, to re-seat properly? This, whether one rotated the planes about their baselines, their ridgelines, or their fascia lines?