dshall

Hey Charlie, a comment, your renders looked "MUDDLED", I wonder why. Back in the day I would get that kind of muddled look but I don't get it too much anymore. I wonder if it is your computer hardware or lack of lights or the sun is in the wrong location. But if you are interested in finding out why, post the plan and I will see if I get the same muddled look and if so, see if I can figure out how to make it look better. You know I have been the 2 minute man, a 2 minute raytrace is all I can wait for and for the most part they turn out pretty good, unfortunately due to my ADD I am now the 3 second man, I shoot a RENDERING, save as a JPEG, and that is good enough for me. With the new quick shadows in X6, the renders are pretty darn good...... well good enough for me and my clients. I finish up the revisions for a client, print plan to PDF and take about 12-15 renders for a kitchen remodel, takes about 37 seconds and my clients love me. Anyway, post the plan if interested and I will take a look at it.

Depends on the type of fence you deleted to fix your issue, if it was a chain link fence with MANY FACES...... oh boy, don't use a chain length fence, don't know what kind of fence you were using.

Wow, it sure would be nice of you to share your little secret with the rest of us...... that is what this forum is about, sharing.......

That never seemed to work for me, your solution makes sense, it just did not seem to work for me.

That is not a good idea unless you know what you are doing. Specifically the roof framing will go to the floor below, if that is what you want, you are good to go. Larry had the best answer, use the ref sets.

I should of guessed it was German, Schniepp or Schnapps, two great imports from the olde country.

This is silly, I don't need invisible walls, I have the side of the building. I changed the max contraction to 6', should be plenty. Still does not work. What am I missing? Maybe somebody can post a small plan showing that it can work.

I don't understand the problem, post a small plan and explain your question.

No, you would still have the railing, you are simply defining the edge of deck surface, give it a play.

This is such a stupid question, it should not even be asked, but can I do it? No, but I know it can be done..... I think I know it can be done...... ran into this just yesterday...... I thought if you opened stair dvx and CHECKED WINDERS, it would work, but it didn't....... what am I doing wrong?..... I bet the Great Glenn Woodward knows how to do it....... will somebody please get him out of bed to answer this question? Thanks Schniepp for asking the question.... Schniepp? What kind of name is that? You must be from some foreign country.

Moakster, that was so good, thanks....... hey, what happened? Aren't you the Moakster still? I think you may have changed your moniker, nice job Kevin.

Select the wall, note that it is a deck railing or something like that, simply change the WALL STYLE to a SIDING WALL or a STUCCO WALL, that finish you are talking about comes from the WALL TYPE.

Hey Ron, you want him to learn, you want him to watch different videos by whoever........ I remember when me and my buddies were twelve years old, there was less resistance on our part if the information we were studying was a little racy.

Lynn just came home, I can't play anymore.

Holy Kamoly Ron, I just watched it and I think there were only 1.75 bad words in the entire 21 minutes. That's a "G" rating in my book....... anyway..... I will make more of an effort to clean it up for your Grandson....... but then of course you could use me as an example for your grandson on how not to behave....... there you go..... turn a negative into a positive........ thank you, thank you very much.

Thanks Ron, I will work on that.

If nobody offers to do it by Thursday morning, email me Thursday morning and I will do it.

Absolutely, I was not sure if they would be closed plines, hence doing one roof at a time, but Jim is correct, do all roofs at one time.

Bill, with any luck here it is...... I seem to be having issues with these recordings, we will see if this works. MOLDING BACKSPLASHES REVISITED http://youtu.be/0nKmLCGY5uI

Nope, I do not think so. But you can do this....... select one roof plane at a time, copy it, open new plan, PASTE IN PLACE, turn new plan into CAD LINES, select the lines from the roof shape, make sure it is closed, give fill, copy and now go back to original plan and PASTE IN PLACE.

Well Bill, so we are going to the South Pacific next fall, and Lynn asks, "Honey, can you please read to me something about the Cook Islands", well we ain't going to the Cook Islands, we are going to the Society Islands, her friends are going to the Cook Islands, so I say okay, I will read something about the Cook Islands to you, and then I notice that Bill Page is looking for one of my videos, I say, "Babe, I can't read to you yet until I help Bill out". Not a smart move, she just went storming out of the room and down to bed, claiming that CA and Bill Page is more important than she is....... long story short, the vid ain't working, I will check on it in the morning, I will also check on my wife in the morning to she if she will ever talk to me again....... last time I do you any favors Bill Page.

Have you tried calling chief architect? I think they have a few for sale.

Thank you Lew, you are absolutely correct. Put the foundation on level 25 and have 24 floors below plus foundation. There is nothing magical about LEVEL zero if you build your own foundation. BTW, auto foundations would never work for 97% of my projects. Yes, auto foundation can get me started but I would always need to edit.

BTW, I think using invisible walls is very limiting and very frustrating.

......well, i just did a vid explaining how to use pmoldings for back splashes. Look for it. That is your answer. You can and I do use this method for creating all of my back splashes and tub enclosures.