dshall

Yeah, T.I.'s generally not as complicated. Not saying room planner won't work, but I would rather go in with an entire battalion instead of a squad of new recruits...... Hey, not a bad analogy.

Here is a vid on another approach. Nothing earth shattering. http://youtu.be/pgl7y3OFTuA

Yeah Bill, I think I like your BLACK dashed lines for removed walls vs my GREY dashed lines for removed walls, I may have to rethink this. Comment on your new SOLID BLACK WALLS for new walls, it is very clear, however I use a DARK GREY for the new walls, reason being, DIMENSION TICKS etc., do not get "lost" in the solid black walls..... just a thought.

Bill, took a look at your screen shot, couple of comments. I like the way you show the removed walls, very clear, might consider using a GRADUATED GREY LINE STYLE, that is what I use, but yours might be clearer, stands out more, but then again maybe you don't want it to stand out more, personal taste The trellis, or what I assume is the trellis, I definitely show the trellis as dashed grey lines, just a thought, (on second thought, maybe I am looking at a framing plan thus the solid lines.... got it, very helpful to look at other plans, we can always learn something, thx) But nice clear plan.

Such a great lesson from Jay. Think about it, you asked how to drop the height of the walls, if you dropped wall height what do you think would happen to roof? Yes, drop the roof 24" and that changes wall height. IOW, roof controls wall height, not vice versa.

Is FART the correct term to be using here? Ron, how long does your on site visit take, and does that mean you have a complete set of as-builts. IOW, how long does it take for you to complete a set of as builts for a 2200 sf two story house on a flat lot. That is what I am referring to, is it more expeditious to do everything on site or do the majority of modeling in the office? I am sure you can draw the as built on site, but what is the quickest way..... inquiring minds want to know.

A rep point right back at you Bud.

WARNING WARNING WARNING, a nay sayer is about to pontificate. I have been following this discussion about the ROOM PLANNER APP, and I (I have been wrong soooooooo many times), but I think this will never work for the power user. I have measure thousands of jobs, maybe more than Perry, and then maybe not. I cannot imagine trying to put an as built together on site. The dimensions are never absolute. When I get back to my office to draw the as builds based on field notes, there are always minor discrepancies of 1"-3". When I take field notes, I draw the plan at 1/8"-1'-0" free hand. I get the perimeter dimensions and then fit everything inside that space. If the interior room sizes do not fit with in the space (on site), I know I have a busted dimension and I go find it. If you want to draw an as-built on site, go for it, but I would bet I could do it faster with the combination of using field notes and then drawing it at the office on a computer that had the power to put it together. When I measure an as built, it typically takes between 1.5 and 4 hours. I go back to the office and put in on the computer takes an additional 6-12 hours. For a net total of 8-16 hours for a COMPLETE AS BUILT including SITE PLAN, ROOF PLAN, EXTERIOR ELEVATIONS, FLOOR PLANS, FRAMING PLANS, FOUNDATION PLAN AND 8-16 BUILDING SECTIONS. If anybody thinks they can put together a set of as builts faster on site, I would be most interested in learning the method, please share. Bottom line, this ROOM PLANNER APP is probably geared more for the KITCHEN/BATH REMODELER or the CLOSET ORGANIZER COMPANY. Putting together a full comprehensive set of as builts together for a house between 1200-3500 s.f. on site sounds like a daunting task......... The point of the post is, for you guys that think this will be a god send, I seriously doubt it. But, I have been wrong so many times before, it would not surprise me if I was wrong again.

We have spoken about this before. You can go back and forth no problem.

select cabinet, open dbx, go or DOOR/DRAWER<DRAWER HANDLE<IN FROM EDGE........ change the number ZERO to 3" , you will now have two handles

Here is a link to a vid showing a method. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/979-dustoaction-tree-house-over-barn-videos-by-dsh/

Nobody has said this as well as you just did, thanks. But if it were possible that would be super.

Assuming we still can not get multiple framed walls in one defined wall...... wish we could have that...... one wall type with multiple wall layers that has stud framing.

It never ceases to amaze me how much I don't know. The reason this forum is so good is we can always pick up a new tip. Thank you Jon, you got a rep point for this one. Another 47 points and you will catch up to Perry.

0" does not equal finished floor, 0" = ground floor elevations. Downside to have an additional floor is none. Upside to having an additional floor is you can have WALLS DEFINED AS ROOM DEFINITION, IOW, you can have a ROOM above the floor. You can NEVER have a ROOM on the attic level. There are times when I want a ROOM above first floor. Try to put a ROOM on ATTIC LEVEL, you can not have a ROOM on the attic level.

Some do not (ledgestone?) but culture stone should.

Here is the vid link for you Ron. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/961-rons-stacked-stairs-in-3-story-videos-by-ssh/

The problem with working with a symbol such as this, if you are dealing with any angled walls in the plan.... you are SOL.

There are work arounds and then there are workarounds. Those knuckleheads at CA have not figured everything out yet, until they do, many of us have found methods to use the tools that CA provides that allows us to do what we need to do. Is this a workaround? Maybe, but dog gone it, at least CA gives us the tools to carry out what we want to do. Embrace the workaround until CA figures out every possible scenario that may arise.

Don't get me started on this. Okay, you got me started. Been asking for this for 4 years. We should be able to toggle back and forth defining the topo elevations either with respect to the f.f. Or with respect to sea level. I just did a job where I was doing mental mathematical gymnastics relating retaining wall heights relative to f.f. But having to work off of sea level numbers. Seriously CA, there should be some simple subroutine you can throw into the program that would allow us the option.

I don't use VIEW LABEL, I use LAYOUT BOX LABEL, and I use SHEET LABEL. I do not know how you use those labels, I know how I use them and I am not sure I can simplify it anymore than it is. Sometimes the SHEET LABEL and the LAYOUT BOX label will need to be edited because of the system I use. I suppose there may be a method whereby I would not need to edit them, but I would be giving something up. I just did the SAM VS TEMPLATE video that illustrates how I use the two particular labels. I do not want to explain why I think they occasionally they need to be edited, I live with it, no big deal, if someone has figured out a way to never edit the LAYOUT BOX LABELS and the SHEET LABELS, all the more power to them. (it has to do with the number of floors that are in the plan).

Ditto ditto

Listen to Perry, he knows what he is talking about.

And do yourself a HUGE HUGE HUGE favor, go to 3D<3D VIEW DEFAULTS<OPTIONS and check the AUTO REBUILD WALLS/FLOORS/CEILINGS, this will auto rebuild the structure every time you make a change so if you look at it in d you will see the changes take effect immediately without remembering to have to hit the F12 key.

What is the dsh law? Yes, the dsh law, if you have a one story house, have two floors, if you have a two story house, have three floors. In your case you have a one story house, add that second floor, put a new floor above your pantry, make the walls invisible, now you have the pot/shelf blah bah..... whatever you call it, above the pantry.