dshall

Thanks KT, something is amiss.

Yep, separate cabs is what I use. Are you on X6? I do not want to have to start a new plan from scratch so I am trying to find out if has truly been fixed with X6.

KBird, GW may disagree, but I think the easiest way to build these railings is with a 2D molding drawn in plan. You can attach top rails, bottom rails, and balusters/pickets. Build this molding one time, and then use it on your next job. Very easy to manipulate. You can move it further away from deck edge or closer in. It also typically will give the lines in plan that represent said railing. The only tedious part is putting on the newels, they are psolids. And once you have done that once or twice, it becomes second nature putting the newels in and again you have all the control you need. There is a vid on the method somewhere out there. I think it is on the old forum.

I don't think you need to have a closet to call it a bedroom. The health dept. looks at almost any room as a bedroom when it comes to septic requirements. Real estate people do their own thing. Think back a few years, hutches and chests were more common than closets yet they were still considered bedrooms. A bedroom does not need a closet to be called a bedroom.

Thanks for checking D. It must be unique to my legacy plans. I guess one day I will have to start a new plan from scratch.

I have an exterior set of stairs in front yard going up to a second floor deck. This is a private residence. Minimum tread is 10" if that includes a 1" nosing, if no nosing the minimum tread depth is 11"......... for stairs inside the house For public stairs the minimum tread depth is 11"... period, cannot be 10" even with nosing. Would you consider my stairs public or private, and if private, should I be able to get away with a 10" tread if I have a 1" nosing. The stairs will be open riser so I get the nosing by default. Thanks for the help guys. (CALIFORNIA RESIDENTIAL CODE)

Nuts, I may have to apologize, can not do it in a new oob plan......

Why don't triple face book shelves still not work? I don't get it. This has now been reported in several beta testing years and it is still not fixed. Isn't this an easy fix? Note that when cabinet is up against wall, there are no shelves in the two openings on the right.

My tool bar was doing something funny the other day...... And I don't touch it, OOB setting. Seems okay of late.

Ron, I had that problem this morning. I had to try about 6 different times before I got on. Seriously CA, the website seems slow, always having to log on, the website not recognizing me, getting frustrating. Getting closer to the tipping point when it's not worth messing with.

I appreciate the contribution, thanks Brinkbart.

No, what I do is the CEILING FINISH is enclosed in a room, where I have an opening, I use a doorway with casing suppressed, I do not use invisible wall.

Here is the plan where the ceiling joists for the DROPPED ceiling will not frame in 3d. The joists are there in plan, but not in 3d, this is weird. Take a look at the house on the right. clg jst wont frame.plan.zip

Here is a vid. Maybe you already figured it out. The mystery to me in this vid is why the ceiling framing for the FINISHED CEILING sometimes frames and sometimes not. Run into this before, had not notice the problem recently, but in this vid it resurfaces. Again my issue is trying to get the ceiling framing for a CEILING FINISH to frame. Another one of those elusive mysteries that we should not even have to discuss. http://youtu.be/dWrChSbf0U4 not a great vid by any means.

To fix the drywall, change the rafter depth for the roof plane to 5-1/2". To eliminate the framing, go up to level 2 and delete the wall. However, now you lose the ext wall finish. You must keep the wall to get the finish. If you insist on no framing, make a new wall type without the framing and without interior finish so you will still get exterior finish. I leave those walls there because out in the field they will build a square frame with ply on it for shear transfer.... to the framing is really kind of good to have there.

I did one more option, put the steel studs @ 1000 feet o.c., put in blocking, changed blocking to c channel, copied the blocking as needed up and down wall, not a good option, best option is probably the symbol option.

I just build a metal framed wall, I put the sill plate on its own layer, did a framing overview, turned off all layers except the one the sill plate is on, and made a symbol out of that...... you probably have already done that....... I am just rambling.....

Sorry, sorry sorry, I am slow on the uptake....... I got the problem now..... I suppose you can turn that c channel into a symbol and then rotate it....... probably the same result as using the framing member as is......... I think that is the solution..... turn that general framing member into a symbol, rotate it, and use it over and over again. What you really want is a METAL SILL PLATE, I do not think that is an option, therefore the symbol solution may be best.

I assume you posted this before I posted #4, #4 will require you to manually locate each c channel.

Oh...... I thought the answer was too easy...... try this.... draw a GENERAL FRAMING MEMBER off to the side, change it to a c channel........ FRAMING SPEC<GENERAL<TYPE<C-CHANNEL

Have you tried to use the material STEEL STUD @ 16" OC instead of FIR STUD @ 16" O? This should give you c channel studs and top plate and bottom plate.

Notice it? I thought is was always there, I even have a hot key for it, use it all the time.

Or how about invisible deck rail wall and the a railing at perimeter dreamt inc a second room that is open below and floor 8" lower. Or we could wait for Glenn to share his secret.

If I had to guess, an offset railing wall, I think you can do that, and millworker symbols for newels with origin relocated.

Larry, try selecting the entry room, open dvx and then close dvx, that fixed it for me, weird.