Alaskan_Son

I can't speak fro the OP but when I had that line showing up it wasn't actually anything in the plan. It was more akin to a cross-hair or temporary dimension that only showed up for short period during the actual zooming. While I would zoom (either in or out...don't remember which) with my mouse wheel it would all the sudden shoot out across the screen exactly like the OP shows. If I were to zoom back the opposite direction it would go away. I could go back and forth in that "magnification zone" and it would appear, disappear, and reappear. It certainly was NOT an item in the plan and could not be "followed". Now the OP's case may be different, I'm not sure. Mine was definitely bug like though.

Funny you bring that up. I've never once seen that before but I had it happen to me today. I was making a very small custom symbol and I lost track of it in the plan. For a little while it seemed EVERYTHING had disappeared and all I could occasionally get while zooming in and out was that single dark line you show. It just seemed like one of those freak things so I didn't investigate but i just thought I'd confirm. If you've gone crazy...you're not alone.

Years ago we framed many many cheap duplexes with that overlap just like that. It takes care of the shear transfer, the flashing, and the trim all that same time. It's really a very efficient and cost effective method. Now it's attractiveness may be up for debate.

And Option #4. Simply use the Delete Surface tool to temporarily delete the glass faces for those vector views. This might actually be the quickest and easiest option. Yep...this is probably what I will usually do from now on unless I need more accurate shadows in which case I think option #2 is better. This only took 4 clicks...

Just got back to the office and thought I'd throw a couple quick examples out there. Here's a couple quick examples using option #2 from above... And here's a quick example using regular glass polyline solids and option #3 from above... They're just quick examples and the latter obviously doesn't have the hardware but it should give you the idea. After playing around with it for a bit and testing the way shadows come into play, I'm really thinking I prefer Option #2 for everything except maybe ray traces. Here's the base symbol I used to create the shower panels for anyone who wants to try it out... Glass Panel example.calibz

There's definitely some funny things going on with framing layers in general. I haven't had the spare time or energy to write up anything useful for tech-support yet but I have wall framing turning itself on all the time in layer sets that I'm not even working in. It seems to be triggered by opening a wall or truss detail

The lack of transparency in vector views is a super annoying limitation to me. There are at least 4 options though... 1. Use walls and create you glass panels out of windows and doors. Glass in windows and doors CAN be displayed as transparent in vector views. 2. Create a custom symbol consisting of only a 2D beveled edge frame. Set the stretch planes and use that for your shower glass. Actually, in this particular case I guess all you would need to do is leave the frame and delete the glass. 3. Use the watercolor with line drawing rendering technique. You'll find that if you toggle textures off and play with the watercolor and line drawing settings that you can get something basically identical to a vector view...but with transparent glass.

Ed Zachary.

Not sure what your problem was with the ceiling plane solution. It worked for me. I just built it to your baseline though and not all the way out. With regard to the little trusses....They'll build them but IMO they are completely useless and a waste of money. Just sayin'.

Not sure I would consider that a bug. I think you're just trying to place a perhaps unreasonably small truss. It looks like you can get to about 16" from the exterior wall but anything closer than that is simply too small. Not saying the limitation should exist in Chief, but in all reality I don't recall having ever placed a hip jack any closer than 24" from the exterior corner.

Your hip trusses won't t build because there's no ceiling below. Trusses need a roof plane and a ceiling to generate between. Either specify the area below as a room with ceiling or manually draw a ceiling plane.

For the floor trusses, just force truss rebuild and then extend them. It looks like one way or another those particular trusses were lowered after the initial build...either that or your room structure settings were changed. The reason the wouldn't extend was that the lower cords were hitting the framing layer of the walls below.

Its not a perfect solution but try using an angled front cabinet and flip it around backward...

It all seems to be working just fine for me... Ray Trace Plot Lines Chopsaw, is it possible you have your framing layers set to be using either white or the invisible line style in that particular layer set?

Interesting. In that case, group select and export everything except that 1 item, delete the user catalog, and then import what you previously exported.

There was a major bug with reflecting electrical in X9 beta. It was reported as fixed with the public release but I haven't tested it yet. Did you already download the latest release?

Can you possibly cut everything else in that folder and either export or temporarily move to a different folder and then just delete the entire folder?

I think what Jintu meant was " IT WOULD BE nice to see a sample of your technique." Are you talking about something like this Larry? If so, have you tried played with the "Watercolor" Rendering Technique and checking "Line Drawing On Top"? If so, try that out, I just did the above as a quick example using that technique.

Except in very rare instances when you actually want framing exposed it is my opinion that you should never have to build framing to get floor gaps to close up. If you have to build framing then I say you have a setting wrong.

I'm away from my computer right now but my money is on the wall definitions. I'm guessing there is no exterior layers or your Build Platform To Layer setting is building the platform all the way to the exterior surface of the outermost exterior layer.

That screenshot I posted was from YOUR plan. All I did was quickly change referenced to owner to get what I wanted. But yes, I have personally changed that macro in my template plan. Not sure why Chief doesn't modify the OOB macro for that. The one Joe just provided looks a little different then mine but it appears to have the exact same results. In essence all you really need to do is change the top line to read referenced ? obj = referenced : obj = owner

Control + D == Make Parallel/Perpendicular

I agree. It's a very rare situation that requires the aforementioned solutions...I was just offering the solutions for whenever the need might arise.

You can also use point to point dimensions and either; Reduce the marker radius to zero Change the marker line style to the invisible line style Put the markers on their own layer and turn the layer off Or you can use these... MANUAL ELEVATION MARKERS Neither of the above have any off angle limitations. The problem with normal dimensions is that they must be snapped to the end of a line making it essentially impossible to dimension certain situations without using one of the above methods. You can also simply place a break in your line to force your dimension to snap anywhere you want but then you have a broken line...not exactly a good thing in some situations...especially if you're displaying the line's length/angle in a plot plan.

That's debatable. You could simply copy and change the material type for that black material to framing and then turn on auto framing but then you have to deal with extra lines caused by the studs if you want to use line drawing. Plus, you get the finish floor showing at all the door jamb cutaways. Given only those 2 choices...in this case I'm thinking a black slab might actually be the better solution. Probably the best and most utterly genius solution??? Change those walls to pony walls, assign the exact same wall type to the lower wall and just make the lower wall super short (even 1/16" should do it). Walla...your wall is always black no matter where you cut it.