DBCooper

Seems to be a bit flaky to me. I was noticing that they changed depending on my camera angle. I was able to get better results by going to the label page and checking "show in this view" to force them on. Not sure if they work different depending on the render technique though.

I am guessing that you are using a cross section slider. As far as I can tell, any labels outside of the cutting plane will also get cut out. Could also be a problem with what side of the wall you are looking at. I have noticed that window and door labels will only show up on one side of a wall by default. Haven't played around with it enough yet to see if there is a way to control this though.

You can turn off the automatic behavior in preferences. Look under "architectural" for "show room label".

"Place point" creates a temporary point that can't be dimensioned to. You can use the "point marker" to create a permanent point instead. This is what gets inserted when you use the "point to point" dimension tool.

Nope. Are you using the 27.3 update that was released recently?

If you do want to use moldings, you are probably doing it the hard way. You don't need to "draw" the molding polyline. Just select the exterior room first, and then use the "make room molding polyline" tool. It should automatically add break points for any windows and doors (depending on the height used when you make the molding polyline). It will also automatically mark these edges as "no molding on selected edge". You can also add your own break points and mark any edges as having or not having moldings where needed. You still need to set the molding profile you want and turn off "extrude inside polyline" setting to make it look right though. You will also need to update it if you move any walls or doors. Sure would be nice if you could add moldings to the exterior room the same way you can to interior rooms though.

It only works from the dialog if you change the cabinet width and depth to 30" first. After you add the wall oven, you can then change the depth back to 24" if you want. @Gary-Doski @tpiendel You should probably report it to Chief if you ever want them to fix it.

There is a "rope light" tool where you can draw your own rope light just like you can draw moldings. You should find it with the rest of the electrical tools. As far as what's in the core libraries, I don't remember seeing anything that was called a rope light in the core libraries. If you take a look under architectural>lighting>cabinet, I only have 5 different lights but that is all I think I had in the older versions as well. Not sure what all is in the bonus libraries since I haven't bothered with most of them. Maybe you could post a picture or plan of what you are looking for and someone might recognize it?

See this section in the help article: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00521/troubleshooting-slowness-in-chief-architect-projects.html#3D So yes, having a bunch of 3D camera views open can cause lag. So yes, importing symbols from outside sources that have high surface counts can cause lag. So my guess is that most of the lag you're seeing has to do with what you have in your plan. If you want to see if upgrading your hardware will make a big enough difference to justify the cost, you could post a plan that is slow on your computer and other people can try it and let you know how long it takes on their machines.

I didn't have any problems. You might want to reboot your computer and try again. If that doesn't work, try tech support.

Or work in an elevation view. Or turn off the soffit layer.

Before you run out and buy new hardware, you might want to look here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00521/troubleshooting-slowness-in-chief-architect-projects.html If you do decide on a new machine, I would ignore the min system specs and I would shoot for something that is as good (if not better) than the "recommended" specs: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/sysreq.html You might also want to check out the Chief blog article here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/blog/computer-for-design-and-gaming/

You can get rid of the inches symbol by unchecking "use default formatting". But I agree with the others that think this might lead to more confusion.

Maybe set the toe kick depth to 0?

Eric's solution will only give you 2 rails. If you want more, you will probably have to use a "panel symbol" for your railing. Panels will look terrible with the straight segments though since Chief can't seem to make them curve to follow the stair. You might be able to get slightly better results by setting your newel spacing to be 2" and your newel height to 0" to fool the program into making 2" segments instead of 8' ones.

I don't have a library folder called "CoreArchitectural" on my machine. It's just called "Architectural". I am guessing that this might be a problem with how you installed or migrated your libraries from X16? You might want to call tech support. Here is a tech article that might help: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00090/obtaining-and-updating-library-content.html

Just to add to what Robert said... If you don't want to see them for one particular window/door, then you can open the dialog and turn them off on the "opening indicators" page. If you don't want to see them for one particular type of window/door, then you can turn them off in your window/door defaults. There are also separate settings for hinged versus sliding windows. If you don't want to see them for one particular view, then you can turn them off in your layer display options. This will also affect cabinets though.

I think that if any of your base cabinets has an appliance or sink that you won't be able to change any of the materials in the cabinet dialog (for some reason only known to Chief). If it's not that, then I don't know. Instead of using match properties to select your base cabinets and then open the dialog, you could use it to apply the materials to the others instead (see #4).

I don't think X17 is any different than X16 with regards to cabinet materials. That said, there are a bunch of ways to change all of your cabinet materials in only a few steps. 1. If all of your cabinets are set to "use default" and your cabinet defaults are set to "use default", you can open up the "materials defaults" and change them there and all of the cabinets in your plan should change. 2. If all of your cabinets are set to "use default" but your cabinet defaults are not, then you can change the materials in your cabinet defaults and all of the cabinets in your plan should change. 3. If your cabinets are not set to "use default", you can use the material spray can in a camera view and the set it to "plan" mode so that all cabinets in the plan will be changed. 4. You can also use the "match properties" tool to select all of the cabinets that have the same materials and then "apply properties" to paint the materials on the cabinets that don't match. 5. You can group select all of the cabinets while in "base cabinet" mode and change all of your base cabinets through the cabinet dialog. Then do the same for your wall cabinets. Can't change the materials if you select both base and wall cabinets for some reason. 6. You can create a cabinet schedule and edit all of the cabinets associated with a schedule row at one time. If you create a schedule with just the description column and number, then you can edit all of the cabinets for each type at one time. Probably some others I missed.

When you need a custom countertop, one easy way to start is to select all of the base cabinets and use the "generate custom countertop" tool to give you a starting point. This can sometimes be much faster than drawing it yourself especially when you have things like rounded or clipped corners.

Looks like maybe you offset the entire railing? See if you set anything for the "horizontal offset" on the "rail style" page. If it's not that, then you might want to post your plan.

How did you make it? If you are using a pony wall with a railing on top that has a panel, then it should be centered by default. One way I know to get the panel to be outside the posts would be to offset the posts horizontally so they miss the panel but not sure if that is what you did.

What options do you mean?

If you changed any of the floor/ceiling settings for rooms next to or under the attic room, then the platform might be different. It's usually best to change these settings for the whole floor and not just individual rooms unless you really want them to be different for each room. You might be able to tell by looking at a cross section view if the platform is changing. As for uploading the plan, delete all the stuff that doesn't have anything to do with the problem (such as fixtures, furniture, terrain, etc.) and then do a "save as". Then make a zip file of the plan but be sure and have the plan closed when you do this or it won't work. If the plan is still too big to upload, then you will have to post it on some online place and put a link here.

Uncheck "cross section line" on the "attributes" page of the callout dialog. If that doesn't make it go away, then post the plan.