MollyNDG

I like this solution, stacking the moldings in the countertop itself to achieve the profile, frame, space (you can actually just offset the outer bead and don't need a molding for this for one less layer) and then the bead. It works well for painted cabinets, or mitered doors but unfortunately won't work for mortise and tenon doors or french cut miter doors because of the uv map for wood grain. See the left door in this image. The line weights and door indicators don't cause an issue for me, as most elevations will be far enough back that you won't clock the indicators going into that 1/4" space, but if that's going to cause issues I can see not using it. And for me, the line weight just shows there is a bead on the face frame which is pretty helpful for us as we acknowledge large cabinet orders, it's a good visual reminder (which is a big part of why I need to create these accurately). Lucky for me, I am the interior designer so creating the system to stream line making all doors and beaded frame cabinets directly benefits me and my work. I can see not wanting to go into such detail for someone else though. It sounds like you've got a great system dialed in, I'd be interested to know how you have the bead directly incorporated into the frame. The downfall of how I'm going about it is that the bead will go with the door when opened, which isn't something that affects me but could easily be a deal breaker.

You are correct Mark, those are not set up as inset cabinets - I should have set that up before taking a video, my apologies, I was focused on the doors alone. I have fixed that in the attached plan above. If you want to check out the system I set up, it makes creating new cabinet doors for beaded frames pretty simple.

I do understand that “beaded” refers to the face frame. We actually specialize in very high-end, highly custom cabinetry, so I’m pretty familiar with the construction side of things. What I’m working toward here is more about workflow and efficiency within Chief. I’m using a door symbol to generate the bead so I can create a simple, repeatable system for building custom doors quickly. Since we deal with a wide variety of door styles, having something dynamic and easy to apply makes a big difference. I’ve been able to get this working, and it’s turned into a pretty streamlined process that only takes a few steps to produce a door with the frame bead already integrated. It also avoids having to manually place individual molding profiles, which can get pretty tedious. I shared a short video in my previous reply showing how it works, and I'll add my working plan as well if anyone wants to dig into it—it’s a bit tricky to fully explain just in text. There are instructions for the system on the elevation. . WORKING 2.0.plan

@MarkMcand @GeneDavis, thank you both for providing multiple answers and tips for this! In playing around more, I realized the issue I was actually having was in the intermediate step of creating the Side Panel - Inset door out of the countertop. That piece needs to have the bounding box offsets in order to push the bead outside of the frame that comes from the wall cabinet (in the next step). This wall cabinet then, when resized, does some weird things. But I could just use the size I created the panel for to create the door then the resize planes (you don't even need zones for it to work) work just fine. The wall cabinet step is important to maintain the UV map orientation and not have to mess around with rotated material. I don't think what I was trying to achieve translates well in words, so I did a quick video (no audio) to show. I think it will work well as a quick system to make custom doors with a bead without fussing with molding polylines and other bits. You just put in the inner door profile you need, then make your symbols. Video is too large to attach, here's the link: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/2cra9tm4pem5mfutgyxt3/AB_lxruRoOaSJ_sFC-HmP7Q?rlkey=teb0umvx6xzys51c3x5xih099&dl=0

I have tried to use the stretch zones to the same affect. I believe the issue is from the combination of using the stretch planes or zones and setting bounding box spacing to something other than 0". The bounding box spacing has to be set at something else in order to push the face frame bead out beyond the stiles/rails of the cabinet doors. I prefer not to use solids for the stiles/frames because the wall cabinet system allows for material UV mapping to remain accurate, whereas with solids you have to use two materials just for the frame of the door and rotate one for correct orientation. It also allows for a very quick system that I can make custom doors extremely quickly with, which is something I need to do regularly as we specialize in cabinetry. Again, stretch zones vs. planes does not seem to be the solution here due to the need for different bounding box spacing.

Hi all, I’ve been using custom countertops with moldings to build cabinet door profiles, then dropping those in as side panel - inset on wall cabinets (shoutout to @MarkMc for this concept, it's great). It works perfectly for most of my custom doors. Every now and then though, I need an inset door with a face frame bead, and I’m trying to fold that into the same setup. What I’m attempting: Add another molding to the countertop Offset it to account for the cabinet face frame I can get it to work for a specific cabinet size by tweaking the bounding box spacing, but as soon as the cabinet size changes, things go sideways—the panel stretches oddly and the proportions get thrown off. So I’m guessing I’m missing something about how bounding box spacing or sizing planes are behaving here. Anyone have a good way to make this setup truly dynamic, so the inset panel and bead stay consistent when the cabinet resizes? Appreciate any ideas—thanks! FACE FRAME BEAD TEST DOOR.calibz WORKING 2.0.plan

@MarkMc, wow, I love this! I never thought to use a framed cabinet to create the stiles and rails allowing the material to maintain the correct orientations! Thank you so much for this tip, it is going to save me a lot of time and hassle. @GeneDavis You can set the stiles at 2 1/4" under the Box Construction - Framed - Separation; then change the individual separations of the front of the cabinet to 1 1/2" in the Front/Sides/Back panel. Then just be sure to set your stretch planes correctly for the symbol so you don't lose those dimensions.

Copying it to the user library you can open it up and see in the bounding box space the front is set to -3", if you set to 0" it works properly. Seems like a mistake in the symbol in the library, probably best to report it to Chief so that they can fix it.

@Renerabbitt I have never noticed that option in that drop down, I will give it a go. Thank you!

I'm not sure I am fully understanding what you are trying to do, is it more like this? If so, I just use the fills for each layer in the wall definition and I have not had the issue of gaps in intersections like you seem to be having.

I think this issue is more than dimensions being pulled to cross section lines, I have very intentionally fixed all dimensions in a CAD detail, closed and reopened it, only to have the point markers show up again. I wasn't having this issue in X16. It also is not a point to point dimension tool issue, the dimensions are pulling to lines. Seems like its something that needs to be reported.

I have this same issue in CAD details. You close it, then open it later to find more of them have popped up.

Here's an open and a closed version. You'll have to change the materials, but they are separated out so that you can do a ribbed texture on just the sides. It isn't as fancy as something @Renerabbitt would do with a cabinet that allows you to open the top, but it's a quick shot at something that should function. COFFEE TABLE.calibz

@Student2025 Here are maps that will work for this tile. Due to the scaling of the hex, you'll have to change the Y Scale to 23 1/2" in the Define Material -> Texture panel. Should do what you're looking for with that, no slivers, it's a seamless texture.

The way fixtures insert into cabinet faces has changed in X17. If you open up the cabinet -> Front/Sides/Back -> Appliance and select Edit you can adjust the amount the fixture inserts into the Cabinet Front (Options, Select Inserts into Cabinet Front and enter a value).