DBCooper

Have you tried just placing the end panel as a free-standing object? Basically, any library door style can be placed in a plan as free-standing object. Just place, resize, and then position it where you want. If you want/need more customization, then I would create one using a cabinet. The problem with using a partition is that it can only be a simple slab. If you used a 3/4" deep wall cabinet, you could customize the front to be whatever you want.

That's a clever trick. I tried creating a circle/box around the light and the text to control the center and then changing the line style to invisible but this doesn't work because the electrical object always overrides the line styles in the cad block . The other thing you could do though is completely remove the text from the cad block and then just use the electrical label instead. You would probably need to do this for all electrical objects though and that might be a bit of work to setup. What we really need is to control the insertion point like we can for normal cad blocks.

In your first picture, you are showing us what your window defaults are set to. My guess is that the window you are showing in your camera view is not set to match your defaults. BTW, only the casing sizes can be set to "use default" which makes them "dynamic defaults". The casing profile is not dynamic. This means that when you change your window defaults, any windows that are already in the plan can have their casing sizes update automatically but the profile won't. If you want to make the window in your plan match your defaults, you could just delete it and place a new one. You could also open it up and modify it manually. There are a number of other ways to do this but since you are new, I won't confuse you by going into them all.

How do you want it? You could try the driveway tool. It has the advantage of following your terrain without as much fussing as something like a poly solid. Assuming that you want something more decorative, you could try using multiple-connected driveway segments with different materials. A picture of what you are trying to model would help people make better suggestions.

I like to make door symbols using cabinets. See this thread for some examples:

Actually, it would be even easier if you posted the plan and layout with the problem.

I opened your plan. I turned off the reference display. I clicked in the middle of the open below room (but not on the room label). The status bar showed that I selected a "ceiling platform hole" so I deleted it. When I did, I got the message again. So I clicked in the room again and this time I got a "hole in floor" according to the status bar. I deleted that and the message went away. As far as I can tell, you don't need the holes that were causing the error messages. I assume that you made them at some time, maybe before you made the room "open below". I don't know if there is any way for the program to create them automatically and I have never seen that happen. Cute house, BTW, but I think that driveway is going to be a bit rough.

As far as I know, the room label will always show room dimensions to surfaces, not to framing.

Chief doesn't really do horizontal cross sections the way I think you are trying to. You can create a top down overview and then use the cross section slider to cut the model on a horizontal plane but you won't be able to add details like dimensions and annotations to it. All you can do is create a picture out of it and it may not actually look like what you want. You might be better off just using floor plans. For example, you can create a floor plan and use a layer set to simply turn off everything that is above the 18" cutting plane to get your view. It would help if you posted a (clear) picture of the view you are trying to create. It may or may not be possible to create this automatically depending on what details you are trying to show. As for the callouts on the elevations, it's pretty easy to add these in manually.

Like Gene said, you have to make your own hole. They also have a tech article about this: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01203/creating-a-custom-sink-hole.html

Have you tried looking here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00960/message-the-plan-file-you-are-attempting-to-open-appears-to-be-corrupted.html

Maybe... but I would still bet good money that when you sent your original elevation to layout that the layout box was automatically sized to just go to the wall sides and then when you added your elevation dimensions that they were outside of your walls and therefore outside of the layout box and clipped out of the view. This is a very common gotcha and why both I and Adam suggested selecting the layout box and making it bigger. Resending views will solve almost all problems but many times it is not actually needed.

You can make a wall any height you want by selecting it and then dragging the top down. Generally, you want to control wall heights through the room heights but if you are modeling a free-standing masonry wall then adjusting the height seems fine. You can also use a solid railing instead of a fence. These come with a wall cap by default that you may or may not want. You could remove it if you don't want it. If you have terrain, you could also use a terrain wall. These will follow the terrain though and this may or may not be what you want. There are probably a lot of other ways to create a wall not using the wall tools. Although when all is said and done, I'm not sure that creating a copy of the brick material and rotating is really a problem either. Picture below shows a normal brick wall with the height lowered, a solid rail, and a terrain wall (going over a bump).

@Charlie Have you tried updating your libraries? Just click on the "update" button at the bottom of the browser. I noticed this problem and after I updated the libraries it went away.

Not me. I think I am still on the no fly list.

I would bet that "reset dialog sizes" brings it back. If not, then I would try "side windows", "toolbars", "message boxes"... And if none of that worked, I would reset all preferences as a last ditch effort.

Some times you can make changes to the model to remove the stray lines. For example, if you have stray lines on something like a counter top, you can often get rid of them by using a custom counter top instead. Some of these lines can be caused by bad wall connections.

Is it possible that your dimensions are being displayed outside the area of the layout box? Try selecting the layout box and making it larger. Is it possible that your dimensions are on a layer that is turned off in the layer set being used on the layout? This could be a different layer set than the one you are using in the elevation. Did you send the elevation to the layout as an image? Images won't update when you make changes to the view. If it is not one of these, then you might need to post your plan.

OK, I stand corrected. You can't make a "curved wrapped stair" but you can create a "segmented" or "faceted" wrapped stair that might look pretty close to a curve. Nice job Adam. I learned some new tricks. I still might want to use separate landings though since I feel like I have more control over them.

Actually, you might want to check out this support article: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03107/creating-a-stair-rake-wall.html

When you select the living area and delete it, the program automagically turns it off in your general plan defaults. If you want it back, you need to turn it back on manually. This also means that you don't need to use "plan check" to get it back now.

Camera dialog.

Try turning it on in the "general plan defaults"

I think Glenn is right, I don't think you can make a curved wrapped stair. Another way of doing it would be to use individual landings for each step. A landing can be any shape you want.

Looks like a case for rope lighting. Might want to check out this video: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/70/rope-lighting.html As for "up" lighting, you could modify one of the puck lights from the library so that it (and the light source) are both facing up. You can flip it upside down in the "open symbol" dialog and then adjust the light in the "open object" dialog. You might be able to use a cabinet soffit and then place the light on top of it. You could probably also use a molding but you will then need to position the light manually. As for your wall niche being too thin, did you know you can set the depth in the dialog? I don't think it can be deeper than the wall but you can set it to anything less that the wall thickness. If you want to make an actual hole in the wall, you could probably just use a pass-thru.