DBCooper

No symbols are needed for a recessed flat panel. All you need to do is go the "accessories" page and set the "panel thickness" to something less than 3/4". I like to use 1/4" to 3/8". Now your "inset panel" will be thinner than your stiles and rails and it should look like what you want.

Rene, those are some really good renderings. I just can't unsee the "New York" book that is backwards though.

That looks like you have a "pony wall railing" next to the stairs set to follow them. Just delete it and setup the railing through the stair dialog. If you need a wall to close the space under the stairs, just draw a new interior wall underneath them.

Ok, this was a bit of a fun challenge (even though it really shouldn't have been which is probably half my fault and half Chief). Before you try and move anything around, you should probably open up each cabinet and set the width back to 36" instead of 36 1/16". The cabinets are indeed overlapping the wall but they are still connected to it which makes them move when you move the wall. One way to solve this, is to just move the wall to the left something like 2' and then move the cabinets back to the right at least 4" to unstick them from the wall. If you move them over different amounts it might make it easier to figure out which one you have selected. Once the cabinets are not stuck to the wall, you can then move them into their proper position against the other cabinets. The most accurate way to do this is with dimensions. When you click on a cabinet, near the right side, you should get a temp dimension to the filler on the right and setting that distance to 0" will make sure it is up tight against the filler. You might need to click around the right side to get the right temp dimension and/or use tab to make sure you have the right cabinet. You will need to do this for both cabinets. Once the cabinets are both sized correctly and up tight against the filler on the right, you should be able to just drag the wall up tight against the cabinets. At this point, things should all be in their proper places. If you don't want the wall up tight against the cabinets, for example if you want space for a filler or extended stile then move the wall using the dimensions so that it is held away how far you want it. So your upper cabinet is still marked as not having a left stile but it has a left stile extend. In Chief world, this will probably work strange. You will have better luck if you give it a default left stile and then specify a left stile extend that is the amount that the actual stile will stick out past the end of the cabinet box. As for the custom counter with the backsplash, there is no good way to only have a portion of a custom counter have a backsplash. You can control edge moldings for each edge so you can always add break points and turn the molding on/off wherever you want. In your case, you may want to just turn off the backsplash by turning it off in your base cabinets, and then adding a backsplash manually. Hope this helps, if this isn't clear or you are still having problems, then just ask more questions.

Like Chris, I am not sure what the problem is. If you draw an interior wall next to the cabinet, it looks fine to me. Maybe you can post of picture of the problem you are seeing? On a side note, I noticed that you removed the left stile from your upper cabinet. This will leave some holes in the left side so you might want to put that back. You might also want to remove the splash from the lower cabinet as well. Neither of these are going to be a big deal in an elevation view but they are noticeable from the left side.

I don't think you can setup defaults for plot lines. You still have to change it for each view on the layout. But you could edit the material while in your elevation view (using the "rainbow" tool) and set the pattern color and line weight. Then when you send the view to layout, make sure "use pattern line defaults" is turned off and your layout should match your view.

The "number style" button only changes how things display in the dialogs, not in the plan. Do like Joe said and you should be good.

The only way I can think of to make something like that happen (without a custom counter top) is that maybe your cabinet is somehow spanning rooms. In this case, the counter can get cut off at the wall. I think this was actually fixed in X15 though because I can't make it happen anymore. You should probably post the plan or send it to tech support.

Any text you put in the room label defaults just gets added after the room name. So all you need to do is get rid of the %room.name% in your defaults and leave it blank.

I'm ok with them moving them. Seems to me like north pointers and sun angles are not really "lines". At least they are not very much like the other lines so I always wondered why they were even there to begin with. What I think would be really good is if we could customize the tool palettes and put whatever tools we want wherever we want.

Maybe you don't have any. If you did, you should probably see a red "+" instead of the "S".

Try this: 1. make a rectangular fixed window above your double hung 2. get rid of the sill and then block them 3. add the arch to the mulled unit 4. add the shutters to the arched mulled unit Easy peasy.

Have you tried setting the thickness of the railing wall to something like 1/16"? Railings are always centered along the wall so making a thin wall should move the railing out so that the post is half off the deck. Also, if you want to move it in, you can just make the wall thicker. There are lots of other workarounds, some of which work better than others but the above is the easiest. Other than that, upgrading to X15 might be worth doing because they have a bunch more controls over the railings.

You can't go backwards. If you can't fully use X15 on your computer, then it is basically useless. If your computer does not meet the min sys requirements, then you need to upgrade it. If it does but X15 is not working, then I would call tech support for more help.

How dare they! And they didn't even consult with you first! Personally, I don't think they removed enough of them. There are at least a half dozen more that I would have removed. They should keep the list as small as possible and only include the names of room types that actually function different. That way if we want to name a room something different we could either create an alias for one of the built in room types or just rename the actual room on an as needed basis.

Yeah, it might not be Chief:

I would check out the posted system requirements here: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/sysreq.html They specifically mention the AMD Radeon RX6800 as a recommended card and they don't say anything about any known incompatibilities with any other AMD cards. So my guess is that if it meets the system requirements, then it is probably ok. You could always call Chief and ask them.

This tech article has lots of info about messages like that: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00106/troubleshooting-3d-camera-view-display-problems-in-chief-architect.html And then if that doesn't help, I would contact tech support.

I can't tell a lot from the picture. It's too small and hard to tell what you are actually dimensioning to. Attaching the plan would work much better. That actually might help. Generally, when your wall dimension is different than your room dimension by 1" it is usually because of the drywall in the wall definition. You can setup your room dimensions and wall dimensions to both locate surfaces and they should match but things are a little bit different with railings. The wall is not really there unless you have a short portion either above or below the railing but the dimensions still treat it like it is. When all else fails, I just make sure my wall dimensions are exactly what I want and then I manually put in my own room label with the dimensions I want it to say. There is only so far I am willing to fight with the program and at some point it's not worth it.

Couple of thoughts/suggestions... First, your plan was pretty big and very detailed which makes it pretty hard to work in (it was very slow on my machine). When you want to post something on the forum for people to take a look at, you can always make a copy of your plan and delete all of the stuff that isn't really relevant. In this case, all we really need is the pavilion. As far as the roof problems, I think Mick is onto the main issues. I did not end up messing around with it but from the picture, it seems like you should be able to just delete the roof and start over with a new automatic one. I always start with an auto roof and try to avoid manual edits unless I really need to do something that the auto roof can't do. Back in the old days the auto roof didn't work nearly as it does these days. And lastly, when trying to get roof planes to match up manually, the "join roof planes" tool can be very helpful. The other thing that helps is to turn on roof intersection points. Chief also has a whole bunch of roof videos that are very helpful.

Is your window casing marked as "recessed"? Look under the window options to see if it is recessed to the "sheathing" or "main wall layer". If you want the casing to sit completely on the outside of the wall, you should turn off "recessed". If you are trying to control where it gets recessed to, then you have to mess around with the recessed setting and how you have defined the wall layers. I think Chief will only consider the outermost layer to be "sheathing" but the "main layer" is easy to control in the wall definitions.

Chief has a weird way of treating railings like walls. I think they do this so that they can create "rooms" for things like decks the same way that they create rooms inside the house. Basically, the dimensions act like the railing is really a wall instead of a railing and locate where the wall would be and not where any of the railing pieces are. If the room size does not match the size you think it should be, then it might be because your wall size does not match the size of the railing. As far as getting a dimension with "some odd 1/16", my guess is that you have laid things out at that odd dimension. The fix is to usually move things, using the dimensions, so that they are where you want them to be. If you want a better or more specific answer, you probably need to post a plan.

I think you are going to have to post the plan if you want some help.

Cad line?

Cabinet soffits are pretty limited, but still useful. One thing that they can do that other things can't is automatically match the slope of a vaulted ceiling. They can also have moldings attached (but not when sloped!). If you need more control over the shape, you could use a 3D solid. If you only need to shape it in plan view but still need a molding, you could use a counter top. Another thing you might want to look at is the "trey ceiling" tool. Depending on what you are trying to do, this might do the job much better.