Kbird1

For an Existing Roof , try the EDIT ALL Roof Planes Tool to update the structure... if tips above don't work...

Ooops , yes corrected....

Not quite sure what the issue is, but if the wall extends too far, pull it back manually...... see the Blue below to do your Sig. and enable them Forum wide.....many questions have different methods depending on the Version used and it saves you posting your version for every question. Mick *** to fill in your Signature like this .... go up to the top RH Corner above and click on your UserName> Account Settings> Signature.... and enable Signature (will Turn Green) then add your Hardware Details and Chief Software Version, as different Version require different Answers. ***To add Pics to your Posts please use Windows Snipping Tool , found under Windows Accessories in your Start Menu, Save the Snip to your Desktop and Drag it into the Light Grey Area of the Reply Window.

With Toilets Chief uses the Bounding Box to force you to give the Code required space around the Toilet eg 30" x 36" , if you point to point the CAD Block you will see it is the correct size already and there is no need to set the Toilet to 17" yourself, by doing that you are almost making the toilet 50% smaller.

Point to Point Dimension instead of Manual used I believe , I pretty much found what you did above too....

Adding pics to the Thread with the Windows Snipping Tool will help greatly others answer your questions, adding the Plan File is even better. Also at some point please do you Forum Signature so we know what software you are using.....

You can't , they are "hardcoded" in CA , you also will only get two Three of them , two outers and 1 centered.....and the Stringer (Trim) and Riser Material are the same and can't be changed individually ie treated Stringers and Cedar Risers to match the Treads. You can draw, in elevation, a copy of the Stringer , turn it into a solid, and add extra Stringers if needed M.

Hmmmmm I am just not sure how that could happen especially if the Plan Files are named differently... I am also not sure how the backup file overwrote the existing one unless you resaved it with the same name? Are there not copies still of the 3 bed and 4 bed variations in their respective Folders under Archives? all sounds very weird to me.... Mick.

Only downside I can think of it that CA will "remember" things like Room Definitions and that sometime may bite you on the A**.... Another good thing in the Template plan is to add an Input Point at 0,0 . so you always start your drawing Near 0,0 , which can help with Z-fighting on larger plans in particular. Mick.

Once the Template is set , the New Button will always open it but the name seen will be Untitled_1.plan until you save it with a name which you should ALWAYS do 1st thing on open a new Plan , so autosave is activated , and you have a backup if you Computer or CA crashes.....most of us have learnt the hard way and lost 1/2 a days work by not saving immediately on opening/starting a New plan. Also a good practice to hit Ctrl-S every now and then and save a file yourself. I am not sure why you want or need to delete a plan, you can Save any current plan as the New Plan Template. There is no need to export from the Current plan at all before doing this.... you can bring in Wall definitions and Annosets etc from different Plans if you'd like to though. Do you mean delete everything in the current plan? then save as a Template perhaps....then yes....on the Edit Menu see the Delete Objects Tool. YOu can also delete Floor Levels etc via the Build >Floors Menu, or shift-Select items and delete them etc to clean a Plan out. M.

No Sorry...... However if you have Autosave on in Preferences you may have Open-able files in the Archive Folder which is in the Chief Data Folder in My Documents. It sounds like your Layout Boxes are using the same View /plan somehow ?

Always good to check the KnowledgeBase especially if it is likely to have been a common question : https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00565/creating-a-custom-arch.html

Do you mean the Arch or the Gable Trusses (Corbels) ? Try this thread from earlier in the week :

You can also Import Defaults from any existing Plan if you want to into a new Template. M.

Lots of info in the KB: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03094/creating-a-custom-plan-template-from-an-existing-project.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00463/creating-and-using-a-plan-template.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01123/message-do-you-want-to-use-this-file-as-your-default-template.html

Do it in you Template Plan....along with all your "normal" Defaults.... or You can save one of your existing Plans as the new Template too..... M

Have you tried working with Temp dims only ? I find it easier and you can use any Dim. that shows to move things.... I assume you have "show Wall length while Editing" on? (try Alt-Q) I guess you already watched this Video on moving Walls with Dims? https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5429/positioning-walls-precisely-using-dimensions.html?playlist=92

I'm thinking your Drywaller hates you especially with that chrome strip it looks like .... Interesting Idea though... M

Hopefully they aren't on a budget then , it is a time consuming option , and all trades need to be "fussy" to pull it off well with exact 1/2 reveals everywhere.

WMR's Cut to the main layer if the Cut to parent object is set, it can even be 0" thick....

No, and yes Casing will only flush on one side if Recessed to main layer is set , on the other side I set the casing to 1/16th thick to make it look more Flush in images.

The WMR will center left / right on the Door if you click the Door even though you get no indication it will center like normal but I couldn't get it height wise had to do that manually......I found I need to pull it down to the bottom of the upper wall only , not to the floor.

You don't need too.....zoom in click the dim. line and drag the extension line diamond where you need it..... then zoom out and change length to 10'0" The 24' Dim at the top is not located correctly either ...surface on the right , middle wall layer on the left...zoom in and check.... except for that one you need to move the Marker as you use point to point dims not a manual dim.

Your middle 10' dim is to surface on the left but to framing on the right......Set you temps dims to Surface too if this is the way you work normally, the issue with placing Dims is that the Temps Dims don't work IF aa manual or Auto Dim is already in place.... The 24' Dims is not located correctly either ...surface on the right , middle wall layer on the left...zoom in and check.... Exterior Dims with Auto refresh on may help you actually....

On the End I found the Base does not recess to the framing layer , it aligns with the Drywall above......but I am not sure what method you are using , as with the pony wall there is no drywall , just framing and two 0" layers of Black colour for the shadow detail