Kbird1

You can't , they are "hardcoded" in CA , you also will only get two Three of them , two outers and 1 centered.....and the Stringer (Trim) and Riser Material are the same and can't be changed individually ie treated Stringers and Cedar Risers to match the Treads. You can draw, in elevation, a copy of the Stringer , turn it into a solid, and add extra Stringers if needed M.

Hmmmmm I am just not sure how that could happen especially if the Plan Files are named differently... I am also not sure how the backup file overwrote the existing one unless you resaved it with the same name? Are there not copies still of the 3 bed and 4 bed variations in their respective Folders under Archives? all sounds very weird to me.... Mick.

Only downside I can think of it that CA will "remember" things like Room Definitions and that sometime may bite you on the A**.... Another good thing in the Template plan is to add an Input Point at 0,0 . so you always start your drawing Near 0,0 , which can help with Z-fighting on larger plans in particular. Mick.

Once the Template is set , the New Button will always open it but the name seen will be Untitled_1.plan until you save it with a name which you should ALWAYS do 1st thing on open a new Plan , so autosave is activated , and you have a backup if you Computer or CA crashes.....most of us have learnt the hard way and lost 1/2 a days work by not saving immediately on opening/starting a New plan. Also a good practice to hit Ctrl-S every now and then and save a file yourself. I am not sure why you want or need to delete a plan, you can Save any current plan as the New Plan Template. There is no need to export from the Current plan at all before doing this.... you can bring in Wall definitions and Annosets etc from different Plans if you'd like to though. Do you mean delete everything in the current plan? then save as a Template perhaps....then yes....on the Edit Menu see the Delete Objects Tool. YOu can also delete Floor Levels etc via the Build >Floors Menu, or shift-Select items and delete them etc to clean a Plan out. M.

No Sorry...... However if you have Autosave on in Preferences you may have Open-able files in the Archive Folder which is in the Chief Data Folder in My Documents. It sounds like your Layout Boxes are using the same View /plan somehow ?

Always good to check the KnowledgeBase especially if it is likely to have been a common question : https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00565/creating-a-custom-arch.html

Do you mean the Arch or the Gable Trusses (Corbels) ? Try this thread from earlier in the week :

You can also Import Defaults from any existing Plan if you want to into a new Template. M.

Lots of info in the KB: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03094/creating-a-custom-plan-template-from-an-existing-project.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00463/creating-and-using-a-plan-template.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01123/message-do-you-want-to-use-this-file-as-your-default-template.html

Do it in you Template Plan....along with all your "normal" Defaults.... or You can save one of your existing Plans as the new Template too..... M

Have you tried working with Temp dims only ? I find it easier and you can use any Dim. that shows to move things.... I assume you have "show Wall length while Editing" on? (try Alt-Q) I guess you already watched this Video on moving Walls with Dims? https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5429/positioning-walls-precisely-using-dimensions.html?playlist=92

I'm thinking your Drywaller hates you especially with that chrome strip it looks like .... Interesting Idea though... M

Hopefully they aren't on a budget then , it is a time consuming option , and all trades need to be "fussy" to pull it off well with exact 1/2 reveals everywhere.

WMR's Cut to the main layer if the Cut to parent object is set, it can even be 0" thick....

No, and yes Casing will only flush on one side if Recessed to main layer is set , on the other side I set the casing to 1/16th thick to make it look more Flush in images.

The WMR will center left / right on the Door if you click the Door even though you get no indication it will center like normal but I couldn't get it height wise had to do that manually......I found I need to pull it down to the bottom of the upper wall only , not to the floor.

You don't need too.....zoom in click the dim. line and drag the extension line diamond where you need it..... then zoom out and change length to 10'0" The 24' Dim at the top is not located correctly either ...surface on the right , middle wall layer on the left...zoom in and check.... except for that one you need to move the Marker as you use point to point dims not a manual dim.

Your middle 10' dim is to surface on the left but to framing on the right......Set you temps dims to Surface too if this is the way you work normally, the issue with placing Dims is that the Temps Dims don't work IF aa manual or Auto Dim is already in place.... The 24' Dims is not located correctly either ...surface on the right , middle wall layer on the left...zoom in and check.... Exterior Dims with Auto refresh on may help you actually....

On the End I found the Base does not recess to the framing layer , it aligns with the Drywall above......but I am not sure what method you are using , as with the pony wall there is no drywall , just framing and two 0" layers of Black colour for the shadow detail

Open the Ponywall wall type>select framing layer> Change Material>Plan material> select Framing 16OC >Copy >Rename Framing 16OC Black> General Tab change colour to Black > Texture Tab Blend with Texture > Save

At some point it becomes intuitive on what to click on to move what with Dimensions and most of the experienced Users obviously don't think about it a lot anymore but I found when I first started out i was better off to NOT close the loop , and leave the last wall out, not sure if that may help you or not? Things have also changed in CA since then though ie we can now draw anti clockwise etc but in general I don't from habit since Auto reverse on walls is 100% infallible. We also have options on the move with Dims now....make sure you know what those Icons mean and turn on Wall Start and finish indicators if you haven't. M.

You can blend Black with the Framing Texture ( Copy the Framing material 1st) for the Pony Wall, to eliminate the end wall issue....don't just make the Framing material Black Colour as it won't frame if you do. I didn't use Michael's RO / S trim method so I am not sure , mine is a WMR as noted above..... Are you not having a Casing? (looking at your plan view)

Thankfully someone's memory is better than Mine , thanks Maureen

In the BOAT video he puts it in his 15.6" laptop bag ...just....though he says the bag he had on hand was smaller than some.... I see Origins new Models are going thin bezel and IPS too.... If budget isn't so important waiting for the new models to come out in the next 3-6 months maybe a good idea , it may also push the price down on some existing models as new lines come out so that maybe good too for some.

I haven't tried Michael's S shaped Trim above but NO , as you can only have one side recessed to the framing. I had never noticed before that "recessed" only works on the Exterior side but makes sense for exterior Walls where you want it recessed to sheathing on the Exterior Only but doesn't help in this situation though I am guessing it was not intended for this Application either. The other problem with using the Casing as the Gap too, is that the Gap in my experience does not go to the floor typically but follows the outer edge of the trim. But if you set the Casing on the other side to 1/16th thick , it is hard to see that it is 1/16th thick since it is the same colour as the Door jamb (frame) and the Material region still make it look like the Gap it there. 1/2" thick and 1/16th thick casing