ValleyGuy

I agree 100%, I had to manage a build from of a set of angled plans once and it seemed that every guy reading the plans complained about it. There weren't that many errors, but I believe some of the mistakes were made because guys got confused in the verbal communication describing the plans. One wouldn't think that little change would have such an effect on the job site, but it did. Aside from the first few guys at the start of the build, everybody else has more interest in the direction to the coffee shop than the position of the house. If you haven't completed the plans yet, or need revisions, you also might end up saying a few bad words at your computer while dealing with off angles...

I'm not familiar with HD but this gives me flashbacks to CA X13 that had issues dealing with standard rendering.... even the library item pictures looked poor. CA worked out the issues to have much improved pics in the next update, but until then they suggested turning off shadows and putting the ambient occlusion to 0. This did seem to help. You may also try to view your cabinets with the sun shining on the front surface instead of the tops in your doll house views. As you know, not all whites are created equal. I have had good luck in standard view with "white" being the brightest and least gray. As DB suggested, using the light tool to add in a light sources really makes a difference - gives the lumens without the fixture.

After a couple of months with this new mouse, there are a few things that are not as they first seemed. As stated above, the joystick glitching has been solved. And now, thanks to Rene Rabbitt, the common library items that I thought were not possible to have in the radial dials, are indeed possible. I haven't found anything in my library yet that couldn't be attached to the Space Mouse. This ballooned up the number of items at my finger tips and drastically reduced the number of trips that I need to take to the library. It just gets better and better. I've attached a pic showing how adding library items is done. Another important item that I would like to suggest for anyone getting started with one of these 3D mice, is to come up with some sort of system to stay organized. I have made many changes over the past couple of months and I suspect a little more fine tuning or adding will be sure to follow (hopefully some new fantastic tools in X16 will be added). Having said that, I wasted quite a bit of time in confusion before I came up with a way to keep the tools 'mapped' out to strategize grouping. I found that certain buttons are easier to use because of their physical location and then proceeded to redefine the tools associated with the different buttons. It is much easier now that I have a paper copy to reference while I reprogram the mouse. The paper page also is a great reference pinned to the wall beside my screen if I need to quickly check it. I've included a picture of how I've been tracking my tools per button on paper. You will create your own system and find your own groove I'm sure. If you haven't used one of these Space Mice yet, I highly recommend it. I'm in no way very tech savvy at all, so I'm sure that most everyone that can figure out CA will for sure be able to get a handle on this mouse. I'm not going to downplay the effort that it takes to get tools and items selected, labeled or hot keyed, grouped and organized, and then all programmed in, but it doesn't compare to the amount of effort to get your default settings, templates, layer sets, library, hot keys and everything else that you might spend time setting up and maintaining in CA. It is worth the effort and I will confirm that this 3D mouse does make things flow a lot more easily and production does increase significantly.

I have a Mac and I just group select (box with cursor, or hold shift and individual click items) let go of all buttons, hold command down and click on the item to deselect. Not sure if there is a default somewhere or not, it just works.

This might be a little easier... Take the screen shot (this is standard camera view), it is really important to make sure the picture is square (use the cross hairs against a wall) and turn off all the items that you do not want to see again like walls, terrain, footings, etc. Import the picture directly on your working plan. Use the resize button to make the picture building is the same width as your plan (the whole thing will resize). Use the snap point to point button to place the picture directly over top your plan. Make a separate layer set with the few items you want to see with desired line colours / weights. You may need to adjust the view draw order (button also found on the same tool bar) to see the plan through the picture box, mine worked properly the first time. Send to layout as a picture.

Orthographic floor view - Top View camera position. Turn off walls. Take a screen shot. Import the picture back into a CAD sheet in CA. Make CAD lines for "Doors Swings" and white CAD boxes for the windows - place as needed. This will get you close. 1st pic is vector view, the second is water colour/color ... whichever team you want to choose lol. Note: your floor under the walls will show through when the walls are turned off. This example is from a house on a concrete slab and shows gray. OSB or whatever your sub-floor will show through on a wood floor system in which you may want to adjust the sub floor colour to suit your needs. Maybe someone won't want gray but may prefer grey.....

For the house entry doors: I check the add a sill box and place the door up 1" to show the threshold and cover the flooring. For the garage: I set my room floor slab material to 'No Material' and then manually draw in a concrete slab at the regular thickness (which shows correctly in cross sections). This allows for proper sizing and shapes of the slab, ie: the slab floor can then sit on top of the foundation wall door cutouts, and properly extend to the outside edge of the foundation wall - as it happens in the real world. This allows a lot more control to cover up any slab to wall gaps seen in 3D caused by a pony wall with a thicker lower wall than upper - like the inside foam on an ICF foundation or a floor check with a foam thermal break. You also don't see the foundation wall anymore if you put the door up. If need be, I lower the OH door by 1/16" and it will hide the thin white sill that always seems to be there. The driveway height doesn't have to be so exact as terrain elevations can be a chore as well at times. On a side note, as this isn't as per your example, when both the house and garage are on a slab, code here requires a min 2" lower garage slab elevation to house slab. An easy way to achieve this (without the frustration of trying to get a handle on all the settings on the different levels) is to simply make the 'No Material' 2" thicker than your manually drawn slab and set the top of slab at minus 2" from absolute . IE: Top of house slab is absolute (0"), set garage floor 'No Material' to 6", draw a 4" slab in the garage and set the top to -2" from absolute. And as a bonus, no matter how far down you put the slab, you can still have baseboards at the wood framed wall bottom using the normal room defaults. Door sills are far from perfect, but setting your door heights only has to be preset once, same with the 'No Material' garage floor default, so the only additional step you have to do for each new plan is draw the garage slab.

You may also be interested in checking off the 'Never Save' in the plan view specifications if you don't want it to change again on you once you get it back to the way you had it. 'Prompt to Save' at least asks you after you changed something, and 'Always Save' is the sneaky little invisible guy that kept on messing up all my plan views.

As I am not that experienced with different programs to manipulate photos, one easy way I've used to avoid this repeat colour variation on a straight forward material shape with straight assembly lines is to take a screen shot of only one of the blocks with half the grout line (or full grout on only one end and the bottom). Open up a new CAD detail, import the screenshot then duplicate it to make a pattern (it also will make the pattern start on a full block on the top and bottom and eliminate your colour mismatch vertically). Once you have the pattern made, screen shot it again and file it with your other CA materials so as to not loose it. Then make a new material in your library sizing the sample appropriately (don't forget to calculate the grout thickness as well) just like you already have done with this sample. If your single block is the same colour, then your material sample will will match seamlessly over the whole wall. Most snapshots I take off the web have natural shadows that produce the colour variations you are seeing. Pared down to a single block often minimizes the shadow issues vs the shadows on many feet of the sample size. If the same colour block wall is what you are after, the one block approach works well. If you are wanting randomness, I have also done square/rectangle shapes in a random mosaic of multi colours for a larger floor sample, thus minimizing the repeat pattern commonly found with 60" samples. A 12'x14' (or larger) pattern is fairly quick to make and usually fits most rooms / patios. Again, take individual screenshots of each stone/block and import onto a new CAD detail. Set up a CAD box to your x' X x' and resize your import stone pics to their appropriate size, randomly make your pattern with the multiple size/colour/shape until it fills the 12'x14' you are after. Screenshot and make your new material sized appropriately and Bob's your uncle. Here is a sample where I also manipulated the colour of the same stone picture in CA with the material colour 'Blend with Texture". I think there are four stone pics made into 10 different ones by rotating and blending with a colour. I'm not very computer educated so having decent rendering pics really is achievable on CA with limited computer skills and knowledge. Now, RTRT is well beyond my level my reach as I'm on a Mac, but if you are looking for a regular standard type render, this works well. Give it a try and good luck.

Chopsaw was correct, it can be done with reference display quite easily. 1) make a duplicate plan (in the same folder) with all the beams included *** make sure you have already framed the original plan first (with the beams included) to have your glass house framing properly showing the beam you want to hi-light. 2) in the duplicate plan: move all the beams a set distance to the side (a couple hundred feet ought to do it) 3) delete the rest of the structure in the duplicate plan for all levels 4) move the beam(s) back the couple of hundred feet to their original position(s) 5) in your original plan, put the beam(s) on a separate layer and turn off - leaving a void space in your framing view 6) turn your framing view to glass house and turn on a reference display of the duplicate plan in vector view

I found the problem to the joystick seizing up..... which may occur to anyone using a 3D mouse - PC or Mac. 'Rolling' is not supported in CA. As soon as I disabled this feature, the joystick has worked flawlessly. I'm loving this Space Mouse, I even put the foot key stroke ( ' ) on it, as my number pad doesn't have one, and it is so much easier just entering measurements too.

Very Impressive Numbers: 19.7 thousand views......... yes almost 20 thousand inquisitive peeks at a one line question about something that hasn't been really asked or discussed in the field at all. .... just amazing what really interests CA users lol. I have to admit, I looked just because I noticed the 19.7K views, more so than I thought that I needed the content. It's like click bait! ....I was secretly wondering if there was going to be any advertising pop up with that much traffic.

You are on the right path, I'm sure there are many ways to accomplish what you are after. I use a combination of layer sets as well as using the reference displays from "As-Built", "Addition Only" and "Completed Project" plans. I also utilize the framing materials for each of the different walls so 3D also has a demo / reno reference. CA has pretty good tools to work with and I've had good feedback from the contractors.

You have the right idea, just use a copied layerset in the one plan. I've messed around with it a little bit. It isn't bullet proof, but it gets the idea across with two looks in the same plan (I haven't pushed my luck with three views...). Make a copy of a layerset with additional copied lines for the windows and doors, corner boards, and roof (copy each existing line so they will show up in your different camera views). Copy and paste in same position an item that you want to change, then immediately change the defaults and layer of the duplicate item. Simply keep track what you want showing on each layerset. To change the siding, I used wall material region with the same thickness of siding and put it to the appropriate layerset. When you use an existing saved plan view or take a camera view, you have the live active features and just need to choose your layerset to switch back and forth. There are some draw backs like soffit showing on one but not the other, some windows aren't exactly all black. Needing to turn off the gutters and ridge caps as they will conflict each other is something you'll just have to play around with to clean it up (at all costs, try and not duplicate the roof as it is the biggest pain). Use 3D solids (...good for missing soffits) as work arounds. It is always a better practice to either finalize the structure or finalize the colour scheme so you don't end up having components that are duplicated getting out of sync if you decide to make structural changes. I would encourage the colour selection to be early on so you can then eliminate the duplicate that isn't needed and minimize computer chaos and excess time chasing all the loose ends. If this is a little too much maintenance and fooling around, I have also made a customer specific folder with the exact siding, window colour, corner colour, soffit, fascia, roof material. Use the appropriate paint / material roller to quickly change the house features. This has been less work and a lot less risky in not removing a duplicate or replacing something turned off when doing x-sections afterwards. Everyone that needed this made a decision almost immediately upon seeing it so sometimes spending too much time isn't worth it. Hope this helps, Shayne

It is nice, have you experienced any issues with the controller seizing up in 3D as I have explained above?

@mthd97 I'm tagging you here as you were asking in another thread how the Space Mouse Enterprise worked in CA with a Mac. I've had it for about a month and here are some things that may be of interest to you and anyone else thinking of getting one. In short, if any of you haven't got one, GET ONE, it is a game changer for sure! Some notable differences specific to Mac: - CA doesn't (according to 3D Connexion) fully support the Enterprise model which creates a couple of setbacks. The most notable - when trying to navigate in 3D while holding a tool or selecting something will glitch the mouse and the joystick will eventually seize (all the buttons will still work flawlessly). Example: select a door then try moving before deselecting it will cause problems. If you deselect before moving, the joystick works fine. Shutting down CA and reloading is all it takes to get back to using the joystick again. Quick to do with a Mac, but still a pain. This only seems to happen in 3D views while trying to move with items / tools that are open or in use. 2D plan view and elevations don't seem to have any problems. *** If anyone has a fix for this 3D view problem that I am experiencing, I'd sure appreciate any help you can offer.*** - the only other issue that I see in CA is there are 5 buttons that do not seem to want to respond, the elevation buttons (R/L, F/B, Top/Bottom, Fit) and Menu (menu is for the Spacemouse menu and I'm sure it probably gets reprogrammed to something more useful). I initially thought that these were going to be a huge loss, but now that I'm getting more comfortable with it, I'm not sure that it matters to me. Here are the best features in my opinion... - Tools galore at your finger tips. I'm glad that I went a step up from the PRO model as the Enterprise has many more buttons to use. Not only does it have many more programable buttons for tools, but is also has the additional Enter, Delete, Tab, Alt, and Spacebar keys, all of which are real time savers once you get the muscle memory working. I currently have about 125 tools loaded and the rotary dials are basically endless - meaning any of the 22 last working options can just keep on bringing up more and more rotary dials of tools. And if you are wondering.... sorry, no library items - only tools can be linked as far as I am aware. Well, not any library items that are not defaults for a tool. This is because it works off of macros (hot keys). Example, if you just wanted to pick a chair out of the library, it couldn't be on a rotary dial option because CA doesn't have a hot key (place object tool) for random chairs. The many keys of the Enterprise also may minimize the multiple coding issues I've read about with the PRO model, as it appears to only have 4 buttons to accommodate all the tools. The Enterprise is corded via a USB port, so if cordless is a must, it may not be for you. I personally don't find the cord an issue in my office or on the clients kitchen table. - Hot Keys: remembering and having the required finger dexterity are now eliminated. A bonus benefit is I basically streamlined all of my hot keys. No more Control, Shift, Option, Command + letter/number. W1 through W9 for walls, D1-D9 for doors, C1-C9 for cabinet items, F1-F9 for framing, etc, as I no longer need to remember hotkeys. (I do still have a few that I just decided to leave as is.) I couldn't remember 125 hotkeys anyways, and now I just have to remember 22 keys to access the 125 tools. This also saves endless miles and time on my other mouse travelling around to different tool bars. In addition, I was able to program a two-step process with ease. The centre between two points is a secondary tool that only appears after an item is commanded to be centred (no direct hot key ability). Both commands have now turned into one choice on the rotary dial. - Tool bars: I have basically eliminated all of the basic toolbars. I now have space for custom toolbars full of library items. This saves an enormous amount of time not having to drill down through the layers for common library items. - Mac only gets a 4 unit rotary dial option, without picture icon ability. I would have liked the 8 unit dial (PC Computer option) to save a few more selection mouse clicks, however, having words instead of icons allows better flexibility especially if icons aren't available (any of the Defaults), and also allows for multiple words vs a single icon. Sometimes a few words helps to remember the tool, especially if the tool isn't used too often and the icon isn't remembered easily. The really nice part is that the rotary dial is always right where your curser is, so the choice is only a small movement with a click and you are right back working again. - And now the controller: the smooth movements with great control in 3D walk throughs is really a treat for me as well as my clients. It brings the control movements to a whole other level. This also makes the working end of business more efficient and enjoyable as well. It is so nice to have zoom and pan in plan view with the super smooth joystick control. It makes zooming in to place dimension tools accurately with the ability to travel 75' away, zoom in quickly again and place the other end without clicking anything else or having to take additional steps like temporarily suspending the dimension tool to activate the PAN tool, or spinning the wheel on my other mouse. I don't play video games, but my kid said it's like a dad's version of a game controller. I am not sure exactly how much more efficient the Enterprise will make my workflow go, but I am convinced that it will be the gift that keeps on giving the more comfortable I become with it. I'm sure that the cost of it will be recouped very quickly and the enjoyment of using it will be long lasting.

We are able to make any type of rail(s) that we need, just make a mldg and place it in your library. Replace the default rail(s) and rotate, raise/lower until it is what you want.

Solver (Eric) made a two or three part garage door video that you may be able to still find on his youtube channel that is very informative and should meet your needs.

I believe the key is the direction of wall travel. Clockwise in my plans produce proper interior / exterior materials. If I draw one wall counter clockwise, it will reverse the interior / exterior materials all while showing proper in plan view. This is w/ or w/o the 'Auto Reverse' checked in the defaults. I'm putting an addition onto an as-built right now, and when I have two walls drawn (clockwise) and start the last wall coming out from the existing building instead of continuing on - CA will make the intersection nicely in plan view, however it also consistently reverses the materials (the siding is the interior material and DW is on the exterior) on that last wall only, regardless if the wall position is clockwise of the last two walls. I run into the reversing materials quite often when drawing dormers, I just need to remember to draw clockwise and there doesn't seem to be any problems.

You are correct, the best thing is to go through each one. Before you just copy SPV, defaults, layer set lines..., try and find out all the things that you are affecting, you will find that sometimes it is best to create from a 'New' standpoint. Layer set lines are a good example, if you happen to copy a line that has display checked for every other layer set you've created and you only want this new line to display on the current layer set, you will need to revise all the other layer sets. Keep plugging away, things get easier with each new little victory.

Hey Rene, ... the two extra walls in your toolbar, are they actual tools or are they just library items?

I'm fairly new at Chief so the pains of learning are still fresh - I feel your frustration as the learning curve is steep. This may also help support the information that you just learned above. It isn't really well explained in videos and hard to get a handle on just reading the help topics.

CA gives us the ability to control all kinds of things; line weights, text size, items dimensioned, colours, arrows. You can also turn on and off different dimensions for different saved plan views by saving a specific layer set to have a specific default set (that sentence could be a little overwhelming). For example, if you had a saved plan view for foundation - create a saved layer set, and a saved default set for the things you want to see and what / how you want to measure specifically for the foundation. Once you choose the saved plan view for foundation, you will have all those saved defaults at one click. You can do the same for the deck posts, or just use a different dimension layer set line with different defaults (units of measure, arrow, items to measure, colour,...) with in the foundation plan view. I put room inside measurements in orange on the main level to show the customer wall to wall measurements, and turn off the layer set when it goes to layout as the contractors don't want that measurement. On my foundation saved plan view, I use foundation dimension orange to show measurements for the sono tubes exclusively. (This works well as our building officials do not complain about colour on the plans.) It looks like you maybe are just missing the specific layer set, but you may also just need to add in a specific line to an existing layer set for the specific dimension you are seeking.