ValleyGuy

That's what I do, break the wall and reverse if more than one door resides on a single wall and they swing from opposite sides, keeping the edit handle always on the side pushing the door away from my little imaginary footprints. This then lines up my schedule with how I used to sell doors, RH or LH hinged interior doors. In my part of the world, door manufacturers sell interior doors by the hinged side pushing the door away from you if you were standing inside the jamb.

I'm guessing that regardless of which direction one would draw a wall, CA has decided to give a 'face' to one side. My theory is that the edit handle side is this 'face'. I just use that old saying ...' most everything we need to know, we learned by the age of 5...' "get behind the line" kinda stuck with me. If you pretend to be standing behind the edit handle, anything going away from you will be positive, and anything coming back toward you will be negative. It helps me remember the label, single sided hardware (dummy handles), and proper showing / swing designation in door schedules. So far old Mrs. Brown from pre-school hasn't let me down.

Hey Jim I understand, sounds like over riding the label with text is your easiest way lol.

I'm not sure how tight your ridge and heel tolerances, but wouldn't it be easiest to lock the base or soffit height and change the pitch to the 1/4"? This ridge looks like it might only climb or fall by 3/4".

Happy Thanksgiving to you too, .... turkey, pumpkin pie and a good afternoon nap never get old eh? You are correct about the numbers, I made a boo boo on the interior wall designations and had them reversed. That's how easy it is to mess this up - a better system with a lot fewer manual entries would be much more superior and safer if any revisions had to be made. I put some numbers on a text graph to show the calculations for the wall sides, and they seem very close. I had to add in the wall area of the bath/closet wall (W05) butting into W06/W08 and W01/W13 walls (4.5"w X 118 1/8"h = 3.69 sqft). I'm not exactly sure what the program uses for the windows and doors, I just used the numbers from the window/door schedule. I would think that it is definitely within my acceptable level of accuracy for doing any take-offs. I did notice something else as well, the CA help files may need a little amendment too. The ID categories didn't actually follow the order as per their list...

I don't know how to put any material list info into a nice neat schedule, but this is the best that I can come up with.... It would be great if Chief could come up with a better / easier system to provide the wall information into the schedules.

Yes, I currently take an elevation of each wall and use see-though coloured CAD boxes with area macros for exterior walls an openings. I found it easier to provide the sizes and let whoever do the math that's required (siding take off, limiting distances, percentages,...) fewer shots taken at the messenger. Everything on the material list is dynamic driven by the component, no formula manipulation on my part. I'm not sure if this will further your cause, but with a little effort, one is able to accomplish what @AdrienS_FX was after in the OP above - use the material list to show the actual painted surface area of each wall. It is fully dynamic in X16 and seems to be fairly accurate. I didn't do any calculations to any fractions of the inch by taking the walls and ceiling layers out. It's late and I have to get some sleep for the big Thanksgiving turkey dinner tomorrow.

I'm looking for a way to easily schedule wall surface area with and with out openings too - more for exterior purposes (fire code, energy code,...). I'm sure that it's possible with macros, I'm just not experienced enough with macros. I haven't found an alternative yet. As for the second column results, in a nutshell: make a wall with a layer (inside or outside of framing) that you want the sqft of, then make sure that it is included in the components area with the appropriate count macro selected. I can't remember, but you may need to check that your material from the library has the proper material calculations, OPEN OBJECT -> MATERIALS LIST -> Specifications (area, Lft, etc). I went a little overboard being specific with stuff - my list broke down things easily for ordering. If you only wanted the exterior studs for the second floor, the second coat of ceiling paint on the first floor, or green board for the basement laundry room only, it was all separated. I actually aborted this materials list as an added value mission. It is way too much effort and really under appreciated. Hopefully some good will come out of the effort and a solution to scheduling wall area will be made. Let me know if you find a way.

I put in quite a bit of work to make a materials list like this happen in CA. I believe what you are looking for is somewhat possible. As far as it being dynamic with different window sizes, I left an example for you to draw your own conclusions from. NOTE: this is from a house in progress and I have not vetted this list for errors / omissions yet. One that stands out: House wrap should be in the siding category, so there is some materials in a specific wall(s) that aren't correctly assigned yet. I am not exactly sure what your end goal is after receiving the exact painted surface quantity; surface area amount to invoice the customer, qty of paint to order, time to apply...?? If it is amount of paint to apply, I agree with @mtldesigns. Exact sqft numbers never seem to be exact qty of paint with all the different variables in play. Even the amount of sqft coverage/gal is a guess from coat to coat. If it is to save money by ordering less paint, sometimes it is less cost to order a 5gal pail than 4x 1gal cans ( 5 gal may be cheaper than 4 gal). Anyhow, have a look if this is of interest. If it is, I can give you the details how to go about achieving this. If you are looking for a quick way to subtract the window area from the wall area, CA X16 will let you put a column in a window schedule for area and you can total at the bottom.

Maybe a bathtub in a corner

Is there anyone out there using a Mac Studio? @Ryan-M or @Chief_Trent has anyone ran any tests with a big apple? It would be nice to see where it stacks up in the comparison chart for only a couple thousand more than a really good Mac laptop. I haven't ever done RT and am more interested in how much faster it will perform regular work in CA than RT rendering. It's a fair jump in price, but I'm guessing that it is a fair jump in performance as well. Mac Studio M2 Ultra 24 Core CPU 76 Core GPU 32 Core Neural Engine 192 GB Unified Memory 2 TB SSD

I think you and @DBCooper both have a valid point each..... different definitions possibly. I believe the CWC is making a distinction between a 'temporary' foundation such as blocking under a mobile home and a more 'permanent' foundation that one would find under a more non-moveable structure like a house. I think that it is a terrible choice of words and should not be used to describe a wooden foundation. After almost 25 years of pouring concrete, I can assure you that wood does not make a very strong case to define 'permanent' in describing longevity, when wood is in contact with the soil. They can write all they want about how wonderful wood is for the environment, and how wood foundations have been used since the 1950's.... but in the end, some of those authors will out live their wood foundation (if they even have a wood foundation??). I have replaced all sorts of rotten wood based foundations and with our culture going toward making more profits by offering inferior quality products, I have even less longevity faith in something built with todays materials than with the 1950's materials. Having ordered a lot of ocean wharf grade, and soil-contact grade of PT lumber, lets just say that there is a lot of dry-rot wood that gets painted green. Claiming a wood foundation is 'permanent' is rather misleading, and suggesting a wooden foundation today would be a risky career proposition, in my humble opinion. As for your original post, I'm happy to see that you found your solution to the wall. Did you find a solution to the footing change? And Welcome to Chief.

Off setting girts on both sides looks even better....

Exposing the framing of a half wall with girts and a cap looks fairly close. You could put all this framing on a new layer line to show it whenever you needed to. Not exactly sure what you might need to tweak to get it to fit your application or terrain, but it's an idea...

The Cheif catalog item will stretch some things out of shape, however, I think this was what @rgardner was meaning. Save it to your library first, then adjust the location of the stretch plane to the lower portion of the awning and it will only stretch that section of the awning. Add two stretch planes and you will get a different look again. While maintaining the proper shape of all the other components in both cases.

@jjifmeyer you could also just use a landing. They work well every time I need outside stairs and seem to be easier to manipulate / move than rooms.

@MarkMc Wow, thanks Mark, that's some really great points.... a couple of really foreign points too. Hacking up items and the rotating a profile technique sound like fun - not your regular plain vanilla stuff. I'll have to do a little research on it.

Thanks @DBCooper. There was quiet a few adjustments made to the main base cabinet, way more than I ever do for a kitchen layout. Here is the plan if anyone wants to look at all the fine tuning. It was too large of a zipped file saving all the referenced files, so a zipped plan file is all there is, I hope it works. Custom Dresser.zip

I had one deck give me the same kind of grief - one side working and one side not. It was a single step and I had two speed bumps. One was, I had resized the deck and accidentally misaligned one edge (not quite 90 degrees). The second was the terrain made the step on one side a hair lower than the other side. It was a rather large deck and the two steps were conceived quite a ways apart. Once I lifted up the step (flattened out the terrain) the magic happened.

I'm not sure what the NKBS standard distance is, but you can adjust it through the dimension defaults under Extensions.

I am definitely not a cabinet expert, but the final product came out fairly close. I took your need and made it a Saturday morning learning moment for myself. There is all the tools and training videos in Chief to make very nice furniture... I know, because I just had to use the tools and watch a few videos . I suspect you are using a base cabinet to start from. I used another door panel (less the rest of the cabinet) for the top back splash above - the lower part of the door panel is buried in the main cabinet to only reveal the upper 3 sides, 3D solids for the curved feet and main part of the lower valance, a molding poly line for the bead work (wrapped around the front leg sides). I would suggest making the whole thing into a symbol to make it a single piece so you can move it around the plan, or save it into your library. Valance: Start by importing your picture and resizing as needed (FILE at the top header to import, and RH click on the pic to find the Resize Tool). I used 42" wide and it resized the whole dresser pic as per scale. Use a CAD box to start the valance overall size - drawing right over the picture. Add some break points on the bottom edge and use the make curved line tool to add in the valance shapes. Select the poly line shape and convert to a 3D solid, adjust thickness and properly place in plan view. Take a back clipped elevation view of the front and use a CAD line from outside of the leg to the other side (at the valance flat spot height). Use the break tool and curve tool to mirror the bottom of the valance shape. Make this line into a moulding line. Choose a moulding from the library and adjust the size until it looks right. You might need to find the mldg as mine was way way way out in front of where I thought it was going to show up in the camera view - just go back into plan view and move it up to your cabinet to not loose the height of this little mldg and to wrap the mldg line around the sides of the legs. It may need a little more tinkering once you see it in 3D. Note: I had to leave an "Open" space at the bottom of the cabinet (with no bottom) so the main box wasn't visible through the upper curved valance areas. I made the curved feet by drawing over the imported pic and making into a 3D solid just like the valance. It took about an hour and 45 mins to make this final product while watching 4-5 videos (I got side tracked a bit...). This was the first time making a custom piece of furniture like this and I'm pretty sure that I could make the next one much much quicker. I'm sure that there are many ways to achieve this and maybe someone else will be able to enlighten both of us. Good luck with it and welcome to Chief.

You might want to look at playing around with a shelf ceiling too.

Thanks @DBCooper for putting a second pair of eyes on it. I'll send off a request.

@scottharris Hi Scott, thanks for replying. I should have given more information, it is an interior door. Here is a picture with all the selections chosen. It appears proper in the thumbnail on the right, but not in the plan when applied. I just created a second style palette and tried applying it.... and received the same result. I'm still at a loss to get the handle to change using a style palette. I just used the material painter on the handle as a work around but would like to use only the style palette if possible. Any other suggestions???

I need a nudge in the right direction. I decided to give style palettes a try and isolated it down to only base boards and door materials. I just want to change the materials - no features. Base boards worked fabulously, however, I can not seem to get the door hardware and handle to change. I even selected every line property option available with no success. Is there a way to change the hardware and the handle materials?