rgardner

All the components to a mini split unit.

Well dunno then. At least it earned me a downvote for asking you a question if that makes you feel any better. You know misery loves company.

Just curious about this. Was your answer not considered correct by other users? Did someone else offer a different method?

As others have shown to multiselect it has to have similar characteristics. However are you aware of the layer eyedropper and layer painter tools? It is quite fast to select an item on the proper layer you want and "paint" the other items albeit one by one but quickly. Alternative is you can select the layer painter tool directly which will allow you to set the layer you want. For an example if that layer is turned off in your SPV you are viewing then you can go through and put the items you don't want to see on that layer. Lots of plans that I see have imported symbols from 3d warehouse and/or made in sketchup on furniture or interior fixture layers for example when they should really be on the electrical layer. This allows me to go through on a non electrical layer showing view and click off the ones that need to be moved and they will "disappear" as I select them since the electrical layer is turned off and I can make sure I get all of the symbols converted that way.

@Renerabbitt

That is the direction of the wall. Ie interior or exterior side of the wall. seeing how you have already gotten a downvote you may want to refrain from marking your own answer as the correct answer unless it is the chief recommended way.

Place the decora switches together within 3" (going off of memory in how close) of each other and they will automatically be ganged together in 3d.

99.99% of the time this is an alignment issue or the side of the roof plane is not at 90degree and not adjoining properly. Any reason why you didn't just use automatic roofs on this easy house?

For full foundation do this. if you want to only hang certain portions like at porches select that foundation wall and select hang floor platform above on wall on the structures panel.

Are you saying some of the stairs are 46" wide and others are 38" or they slowly taper from 46 to 38? If they taper you would have to do each stair using a landing. If they change at some point you can do a complete break of the stairs and set the ones at 46 and the others at 38.

If you get in the habit of modeling in chief exactly as it is built you will have less frustrations. If it is a freestanding 4" brick wall then use a wall with that configuration. Place a doorway at the opening and insert a fireplace symbol or you can model it more accurately with a small room in there depending on what you are going for.

Upload the plan file and list what software you are using in your signature line.

You can do it with multiple wall types with a post at your interval and no other layers and an interior framed wall with the posts set as non room defining partition walls. You would need to break the interior wall at each post and turn the little wall at the post invisible. But as Michael mentions it will be a pain. A tip is when you cut the framed wall at posts flip the direction of that little segment so it doesn’t rejoin together prior to making it invisible.

Try a perpendicular room divider. btw why use a solid for the fireplace rather than actual walls?

Glad that helped out. You can help other users by commenting back things that helped you fix the issue or marking the answer that helped as the answer. When other users search for the same thing then they will see what helped. BTW unless you tag someone with their name @LeRoyWells or quote their text as I did above they won't get a notification. I just happened to see this.

You have a 2nd floor with rooms defined with 3x8 floor joists defined. Your ceiling framing with a room above takes on the framing of the floor system above it. Honestly there are alot of issues with this plan on that 2nd floor... I am not sure exactly what you are trying to accomplish with the hidden walls and rooms up there? But here is a picture of your 2nd floor framing defaults showing you are calling for 2.5x8 floor joists which would be your ceiling framing for the floor below: When I removed all of the invisible walls and the room definition above those rooms and fixed the room you wanted up there by connecting the unconnected wall on the bottom right corner and framed everything I got this:

The "missing hatch" is because there is no longer a frost wall there you may have inadvertantly changed them to a S.O.G. footing instead.

I never noticed substantial slowdown other than some files brought forward which were slowing it down due to older default settings that were conflicting. That is 95% of the time the reason for slow downs with newer versions. The ones that I was seeing slight slow downs were files started in X12. I copied the info to a new template and the slowness went away.

Include the plan. Too many variables on this one.

Look in the helpful on how to do custom ceiling planes. You can also do it with roofs but a little harder to control unless you know exact pitches and placement.

^ I I

Did you look at the pic? Large beams all bearing directly over windows that are in a large continuous run. Is it possible yes. Will it probably require a steel beam across the entire rear span of the house over those windows most likely.

Couple of things here: Each switch needs to visually show what it is switching so it is important to have individual switches so it can show it. If you are having issues with spacing use the multiple copy tool and set it at say 3" and copy them across. This will allow the individual switches to have a balanced look in 2d and be close enough together (note I think within 3" one switch from another it will auto gang together in 3d). Sorry Susan this will not work for the electrician or any discerning AHJ that is doing a plan check. Individualized switches in a 6 gang location will have multiple switches going to different lighting circuits some being single pole some being 3ways other 4ways etc. They need to be able to visually represent that to the electrician and the AHJ who is examining the plans. And finally PLEASE find a different location for some of these switches! Aesthetically a 6gang switch block is ugly is a pain for the electrician and even after years of living in the house the customer will have problems with muscle memory for that many switches switching on and off the wrong lights occasionally.

I agree. Rob's method will work but is more problematic when working outside of exterior walls due to foundation walls, corners, and especially at three way intersections of interior walls. I would probably adjust the wall definition in this case as well due to those issues although I generally do the furred wall on interiors such as basements.