rgardner

He is showing the description of the wall in the schedule so he must have it included. UNLESS: You don't happen to have two versions of that wall for some hidden wall scenario? Usually you would put it on an individual layer so as to not show it in certain views but I did have a client who hid all of the layers of the wall and gave a blank line type so it wouldn't show on the plan view.... Any chance you have two copies and the one you are showing in this post is not selected in your schedule to show? Otherwise you need to either export your wall types and show us your schedule settings or better yet just upload the plan.

Just confirming when you made the wall type it has some fill or at least lines assigned to the different layers of the wall?

Since we don't know what version you are using we cannot answer your question. Do us a favor and fill out your signature with what version and some basic Computer stats. If you are using a Home Designer product then they have a separate forum called hometalk which has information specific to your software.

Still that is not a osx file format so your client must have used a converter. (FYI you can just export to a png or jpg format within the finder (osx file explorer) app.) Not to my knowledge.

Nope iPhones will use their own HEIC format.

Doesn’t pass code in MANY AHJs.

Haven’t seen this. Maybe post the plan.

As Perry mentions: for the brick you are best to remove the column you used above and set a molding poly line at the base of the lower posts and give it the brick/stone material texture. btw your engineer is going to love designing how that roof beams are landing right in the middle of the windows on the lower level.

If it’s not in the table then it can’t be prescriptive framing. Which means you need an engineer to design and seal the design to use those heights. Most likely they will design with an LSL stud or similar.

You are saying it’s a 32”x96” door and when you go to place it then it’s a 32”x96” door…. You sure you aren’t confusing the 80 8’-0” as 80” in your mind?

Exactly this. Just a note based on the question type that you may or may not be aware of. There is a different layer set associated with your plan view vs. your 3d view. Make sure you make the change in the 3d view so as to not affect your MEP plan.

Probably best to put this on home talk which is for the home designer line of products as the toolset is significantly different. Not sure if HD has this but my guess is the wall was manually adjusted in which case the bottom plate is below that ceiling or sheathing. If that’s the case then try looking for a default bottom wall height on the structure panel of that wall dbx.

No he is simply saying open the elevation you have the note or whatever plan view you have the note and use ctrl+C or Cmd+C for mac and go to the new view and use ctrl+V or Cmd+V to paste the note into the new view. Unlimited amount of copies of the note that will all report the same number.

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/75/terrain-site-plan-basics.html?playlist=138 And I encourage users to use CAD lines for the actual property line for site plan and consider the terrain perimeter as a tool for renderings. Make the terrain perimeter alot bigger than the actual lot size.

As a side note you can see that your wall above is not aligned with the wall below since the match wall to wall above tool is in your edit menu.

Not sure what your exact issue is. Looks like you moved that foundation wall and did not adjust the lengths of the perpendicular walls. It appears the walls are stepped correctly. Maybe a pic describing what you need and/or the plan file?

Most people dont remember it because it automatically turns off when you manually adjust the wall.

When you manually adjust a wall you lose the dynamic aspects of it. Reset the wall to have default top and bottom wall heights.

Saw this earlier today and have thought about it a few times. I haven’t tried this, but what happens if you use a roof plane for your roof structure and sloped ceiling planes for the insulation and lower portions of the roof within the building envelope?

Do you have another cabinet or an appliance to the right of it? That will keep it from working.

Yes I understand that but the question wasnt clear if it was for the decking, or in 2d for a fill as he is showing in the picture. Both different answer depending on the requirement. BTW you can also simply use guide lines and the 3 key oob (break tool) to do the staggering. But you need to make sure the deck room is set to maintain its framing or it will try to fix it.

Please explain your question more.

Use ALDO. BTW if the little red plus sign is there then it is actually being used.

This was what I was implying to for making the cabinet doors above using the bifold doors as the starting point. But going direct to making it a symbol is a great way too.

Workaround is to create a room polyline and fill the polyline instead of the room. Best to put on separate locked layer when done.