Gawdzira

There was a thread recently where someone was looking for a similar siding.... siding on the walls.zip

Turn these off and your problem goes away. I don't have more time to mess with this but I am still curious. It is probably only one thing that is the problem. Maybe the glass one?

I opened it again and in trying to move things in your elevation I am getting the freezing with labels on or off. There is about 12 seconds of freezing on my machine but with labels on I had some longer freezes to the point of closing the window. I have been working with the file shown in the attached image without any problems. I have labels on and I do a lot of editing in elevation and 3d mode. My guess is that you have some issues based on a macro. I tried deleting the window and door macros on the front elevation but that did not help with the front elevation.

I just checked my setting for that long word thing and mine is set to Application Controlled. I strongly suspect that is the default because I had never ventured into that dark area before.

No problem and I am at home on my Sunday computer (not as fast as the specs in my signature). When was the last time you rebooted?

The print size is relevant to the output quality you desire. If this is print quality for a magazine or brochure they would probably want something like 300-600 dpi. With that in mind you would calculate the 300 dpi (dpi -= pixels per inch). 8.27 inches wide x 300 = 2481 A4 at 300 dpi = about 2500 pixels by 3300 pixels. Therefore you just need to set your output resolution to at least that size. Also, when you save the file, save as a .TIFF file rather than a jpg so as to not lose anything through compression.

What do you need it to do? If you want to be productive with presentation drawings, get a new computer. If you want it to be fast and be able to handle large files for con docs, get a new computer. X6 is very resource intensive and so unless you want it to bog down, get a new computer. If you only produce one set of drawings a year, try the Vista set up.

Thanks Glenn. You are a life saver.

I have done something to break this and I can't build a bacony on my second story. There is a label in the second floor near the stair tower called "Bad Balcony" where I can not figure out why it is not closed enough to create a balcony area. Thanks for looking. Alan Gheen RMD v2 new tower b 1.zip

Sweet. Thanks Bill.

More pics to describe the issue.

I am at a pretty messy stage with this 3d model so it won't help to attach a plan. What I am pointing to in the attached image is where a roof plane will intersect the curved wall of a tower element which goes through the roof plane. In my previous version of this I just cut the roof plane along the curve and made a segmented line with a lot of breaks to come close to the curved wall. I can, and will, do that again but I sure would like to have some one point to the curved cut in plan projection onto a roof plane tool...

I have been deleting a lot of my ranting before hitting the "POST" button due to that fact that a basic Google search for me comes up with my posts on this forum on the first page.

I don't know why that worked for you. Without my cross hairs in perspective view I can edit in 3d.

Hardware edge smoothing?

At 7pm your sun should point to just north of west. Looks correct to me.

Post your plan. If someone else can move the desired object than it will be local to your computer as DJP is suggesting.

Did you, by any chance, first build the upper skylights and copy them to the lower roof?

Got it. You are too skinny. Change the thickness and the opposite side will not bleed through. Or, convert it to a solid.

I created a polyline solid in elevation and shaped it just like yours. The pattern is consistent. The real questions is what settings are you using to get that amazing line drawing render? Is that watercolor with gray tones? P-SOLID PLAN.zip

Mary Anne, post your plan to the forum and a sketch of what you are wanting. This is a very easy thing to achieve by either drawing the roof manually or setting up some temporary (or invisible) walls for the roof to auto build. There are many different kinds of roofs so your question becomes a little vague without a drawing.

I have seen a detail book done very well for a large project. I like the idea but the majority of my projects have not needed something so extensive.

I just watched the video demo of the Disto D5. Then I wiped the drool from my keyboard.

I have a Ryobi and it works great. Back lit display. Finding that red dot in the sun is almost impossible past about 20'. I have not tried the yellow shooting type sunglasses for the outdoors. Most of the time, when shooting for an as built I am doing about 99% from the interior anyways. I do my as built drawings with a field sketch clip board. It holds an 11x17 sheet. I will sometimes use that to lean against an outside corner for the outside shots where I can't hook a tape. I keep it very simple with my field measures and just shoot distance in inches. I hear all the time about tricky things your phone can do to measure a room. A guy I know came in singing about an app to get a rooms dimensions. We tried the room we were standing in and it was off by about 25% for a 9x13 room.

Don't mean to sidetrack but it is Friday. One of my buddies who worked phone support for Microsoft Word (early 90's) would get paper photocopies of floppy disks sent to him. "Please send me a copy of the disk you are having trouble with...."