javatom

Where is "Auto Rebuild Attic Walls" located for turning it on or off?

North Idaho Community College uses it. That's in Coeur d'Alene.

Room names are more than just a label. They determine some of the auto build functions. I would start by changing your FLOOR defaults. You may also need to define some rooms structure tabs as floor being supplied by foundation room below.

Place a note on your plan indicating the trimmer specification. Add another for framer to determine rough opening based on window manufacturer specifications. Your indication of an exact header length is asking for trouble.

Maybe a little manual roof editing is in order.

I think your radius would increase as you went toward the back.

Five structures in the same plan file would make for a pretty slow moving program. The file size would be enormous. The logistics would be a nightmare. What if one house made a change and you called the whole plan file a "revised version". The other 4 were not revised. It would be really confusing.

I just tried making a box with an odd angle. If you draw a manual dimension line from corner to corner, it will make it parallel to that line. You don't even need to hit the make parallel button. The trick it to draw the dimension line from corner to corner than manually move it away from the property line you are measuring.

Your engineer is doing it with the ltp4 hardware at 16" oc each side. Its the same end result. The screws are just a faster (but more expensive) way to do the same thing.

Perry is on the right track. It will need some serious hardware to prevent a hinge point problem. When I have done this in the past, the engineer sometimes specifies 16" timber screws through the beam and into the original top plate.

Click on the dimension line and hit the "make parallel icon" than click on the property line. You can then snap it to the corners of the property.

Nice tip about the facet check box on roof. Thanks

I write it down on a notepad and leave it there for a week or so. If it still makes sense, I change the template. The initial exuberance sometimes wears off and seems like a bad idea latter.

lines will curve but a curved object will have facets (like round roofs). I do not know a way around it. If it is viewed with standard cam it may not show up as much as vector view.

trusses need a roof AND a ceiling plane. Make the porch a room and it will work.

Perhaps OP does not know what a stem wall looks like.

The response may be slow because it is a little hard to understand what you are asking. Are you referring to the arched area?

You could show an attic level floor plan or just note it on the elevation.

Create a notch in the main roof and pull it back so the the two roof planes no longer overlap. Click on the back edge of the curved roof, hit #2 then click on the notched in part of the other roof plane. The software will create a perfect intersection.

The size of the file will increase dramatically but may be worth it. I use update on demand.

Build - wall - fix fall connections. Click on that one and it may take care of some of the issues.

The CA knows best stuff drives me crazy. The top wall plate should NEVER move no matter what settings you give the roof or roof framing. Everything being posted is just different ways of going about the same thing. The envelope can be made to be correct by a variety of methods. All these observations are reflecting the framing only (unless auto rebuild roof is checked).

It looks like it is stopping at the ceiling just like you want. I must be misunderstanding the question. Why do you have so many walls so close together?

I don't have a solution but I do have an observation. If you change the wall types to 2x6 walls, the problem goes away.

Don't beat yourself up looking for a way to make that floor (roof of deck) slope. Just make a note. If you are hell bent on displaying the slope, shoot a cross section and draw it in manually. You can of course slope it if its a roof plane but Joe is right, make it a floor of a room.