javatom

You could check archives and see if that saved version still has it as one intact block.

Maybe you saved the plan file as a different name. You might need to re-link to the file you are working on. From the layout, look for the icon that looks like two links in a chain. Follow the prompts from there.

SoCal is a big area. You may want to be more specific.

I believe you can manually drag it to the next marker and it will go away.

Good suggestion.

I understand the various ways of changing it back. Perhaps "bug" was not the best description. It is at best an "interesting" choice of program operation. New users of CA tend to change walls by using the paint tool. If there is a decision to change ALL the side, It becomes a lot of extra steps to reset everything back so the wall type will change it for you. Using the painting tool for exterior materials removes one of the best features of CA imo (changing the siding all at once by changing the definition of the wall type). Your list is great for showing the various ways of fixing it though. Thank you.

I do a lot of fixes to other users plans so I have a database of plans to draw from. This is caused by using the eyedropper and spray tools to change the exterior wall material instead of using the wall type and definitions. I'm not even sure why it is an allowed function when it causes so many problems. Rule of thumb - if you use the material dropper on an exterior wall it becomes the only way to change it after that point. The odd part is that the behavior is random.

If you use the spray can to change an exterior wall type, you will eventually end up with a problem of not being able to change it any other way. You can change the wall type to something else and nothing changes. This is probably a bug but it is nevertheless a problem with using the spray tool instead of using the wall type and definitions to change a wall material. I do not use this method at all but I spend a lot of time fixing other people messed up plans and this is the most common mistake I see.

The spray can to change wall material is a last resort. It can cause problems down the road. As Michael has said, do it with wall definitions if possible.

I'm well aware of how the program works. I was simply pointing out that that functions name is a bit misleading. In reality I never turn it off.

I do not want them deleted. I sometimes just want chief to stop undoing some changes I have made to them. It appears to be no way to do that.

I think it just prevents an attic wall from drawing in. If it is already there it keeps regenerating to meet the roof weather it is on or off.

Thanks. I just shut it off and moved the roof planes up 4'. The attic walls regenerated despite auto rebuild being turned off.

Where is "Auto Rebuild Attic Walls" located for turning it on or off?

North Idaho Community College uses it. That's in Coeur d'Alene.

Room names are more than just a label. They determine some of the auto build functions. I would start by changing your FLOOR defaults. You may also need to define some rooms structure tabs as floor being supplied by foundation room below.

Place a note on your plan indicating the trimmer specification. Add another for framer to determine rough opening based on window manufacturer specifications. Your indication of an exact header length is asking for trouble.

Maybe a little manual roof editing is in order.

I think your radius would increase as you went toward the back.

Five structures in the same plan file would make for a pretty slow moving program. The file size would be enormous. The logistics would be a nightmare. What if one house made a change and you called the whole plan file a "revised version". The other 4 were not revised. It would be really confusing.

I just tried making a box with an odd angle. If you draw a manual dimension line from corner to corner, it will make it parallel to that line. You don't even need to hit the make parallel button. The trick it to draw the dimension line from corner to corner than manually move it away from the property line you are measuring.

Your engineer is doing it with the ltp4 hardware at 16" oc each side. Its the same end result. The screws are just a faster (but more expensive) way to do the same thing.

Perry is on the right track. It will need some serious hardware to prevent a hinge point problem. When I have done this in the past, the engineer sometimes specifies 16" timber screws through the beam and into the original top plate.

Click on the dimension line and hit the "make parallel icon" than click on the property line. You can then snap it to the corners of the property.

Nice tip about the facet check box on roof. Thanks