glennw

In most of Chiefs dbx's there is a box down the bottom titled Number Style... Open that dbx and set the format, I believe you want Quadrant Bearing.

In your Dimension Defaults...Locate Objects panel, make sure Other Objects...Plants and Images is checked.

Johnny, You are probably better off using Transform/Replicate...Resize. Draw a line over the known points on the picture to work out the resize factor. This will retain the aspect ratio.

Right click on a toolbar area. Click Tool Palette. Or...I'm guessing that didn't do it. Go Preferences...Reset Options...Reset Side Windows - that should do it.

Johnny, If I read what you want correctly... Select all the line segments. On the edit toolbar click Extend Objects. Click anywhere in the plan. Esc. You should now have one continuous polyline.

Johnny, Just thinking on this one a bit more. Getting the molding polyline to cut at the doors and windows is the easy part, But to fill in those gaps top and bottom, you can select that part of the polyline that crosses a window or door with Edit Object Parts toggled on. You could then assign as many moldings (your cut down siding molding) as you want with appropriate vertical offsets to fill in above and below the windows. Could be a bit of mucking around if you have a lot of different sill and head heights.

Johnny, Very easy to do this, but the breaks are full height. You may need a least 3 molding polylines at different heights - depending on the head and sill heights of various doors. Or, you could fill in above and below the window with lintels, sills or treatments to match your siding profile - it may work. Or...make all your openings full height. In the second picture, I added some Treatments...Exterior Millwork and just grabbed some shutters from the library - you would obviously use your cladding profile. It may be hard to get the planks lined up though. Anyway...some food for thought.

Larry, Open the main room dbx, Structure panel...Ceiling...uncheck Use Soffit Surface for Ceiling.

If you want to move, say, a side of a square polyline and not the whole square polyline. Enter the dimension value you want. Do not click the Move Object button - that moves the whole object - just like it says. Leave the Move Both Ends (or Move Edge) button checked - this will move just the one side of the square and not the whole square. To finish, you do not need to click the line you want to move. You can click anywhere in the drawing or press Enter to finish the command. The last click you are making on the line is not selecting it, it is finishing the command (you can click anywhere in the drawing to finish the command).

Open the Layout Box Specification and use the Insert button to get this:

You draw the elevation lines parallel to the Terrain Break/Retaining Wall.

Scott Update. I can get the round tread edge, but I loose the balusters!

Scott, No, doesn't work - I tried that. It just gives the tread edge 2 straight facets instead of 1 straight edge. Probably needs a bug or suggestion report.

Kudos to Yusuf for his solution and to Scott for the video. This is my take on the spiral stair conundrum. It uses exactly the same program functions as Scott's video, just a different method to get there. My method took about 2 minutes. The solution lies in recognising that a single stair will not revolve more than 360 deg, but a sub-section of a stair will rotate over another sub-section. This video uses sub-sections: http://screencast.com/t/t6wIKFYBVbD There is also another way I came up with which involves creating separate stairs and attaching them on top of each other (not using sub-sections). The end result in 3D is the same but the plan view is better because each stair can have it's own line style and by using the drawing levels (bring to front, etc), you get more control over the stair display. Also, if you select all the stacked stairs together, the all appear in the stair dbx as sub-sections even though they aren't joined. The picture below shows 3 stairs stacked together (not sub-sections).

Simonas, My first advice is to NOT use the Material Painter to paint walls. Better to use another method like a new wall definition or a Wall Covering. You can add a Wall Covering on a per room or per wall basis - including a single wall in a room, or multiple walls in a room. If you want to apply a Wall Covering to only selected walls in a room, you can do it by selecting just those walls and add a Wall Covering. If you add a Wall Covering to the ROOM, it will calculate in a Material list for the Room. If you add a Wall Covering to a WALL, it will not be included in a Room Material list - you need to use a floor or area material list.

Rob, It is the settings in the Countertop section. Specifically the Flat Sides and Flat Back settings. The countertop is overhanging the sides and back and in the case of the island bench, the countertop is set to overhang the front as well. These overhanging countertops are overhanging each other. After you change the settings, you will need to drag the cabinets away from each other and then reconnect them. Or, probably easier, a 3D...Rebuild 3D should update them all in one go (after you have changed the settings - so as to avoid dragging every cabinet to get them to mend.)

I agree with Perry. Down here in Oz it is common practice to have the larger dimension first. ie, a 200x75 beam would always be shown like that never 75x200.

It's quite easy to get vertical changes of level. You can use either the Terrain Break or a Terrain Retaining Wall. Draw either and then place a small Elevation Line at the top and bottom of the retaining wall or Terrain Break with the appropriate elevation. Retaining Wall on the left, Terrain Break on the right.

Yes, I used the Wall Break tool.

Do you mean something like this?

What's more is that the polygon will make parallel according to which polygon side you choose.

Kc, You will love this one - a real hidden nugget. Select the polygon, DOUBLE click the Make Parallel tool. See what happens!

One good way is to open the help file View...Contents and scroll down to Whats new in Chief Architect 7...New and Improved Features by Chapter

Richard, Something has to "hold" the fill - usually some form of polyline.

For a start, you need to build the roofs correctly. It looks like you have built them manually. The central higher roofs run straight through under the side roofs - wrong. These roofs will always look wrong from inside. I suggest that you use the auto roof builder and uncheck Ceiling Over This Room.