glennw

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Everything posted by glennw

  1. Chopsaw, If I am reading your post properly, there is a way to move a symbol in 1/64" increments by using the snap grid, or rather, using a line that is 1/64" long (sized by snapping to a 1/64" grid) as the reference for a point to point move. Don't forget that once you have your 1/64" line, you can move it around to any location or angle and use t as the reference for your move or resize. https://www.screencast.com/t/4RSfZ2CB PS: I just found a better way that is easier. Set up your snap grid to 1/64". Change to Move edit mode. In this mode, you CAN snap to the 1/64" grid and you can move the object from a side or corner grip - it doesn't have to be the center grip. I don't know why you can move an object in 1/64" increments in Move edit mode, but you can't do it in Default edit mode. https://www.screencast.com/t/26JxsxCchlZj
  2. Roof Plane Specification dbx, or Roof Defaults dbx...Options panel...Eaves...Flush Eave. But it is still not perfect as the thickness of the end material is derived from the outside wall layer thickness of the gable wall. This means that if you have a brick veneer wall on the gable end, the thickness of the vertical infill triangle will be the thickness of your brick wall layer.
  3. Just a guess without seeing the plan, but what you are describing is the fact that the colored areas are those in the background. It looks like you have used a back clipped cross section. The colored foundation on the right hand side is caused by the foundation in the background and it is probably within the clipping distance. The back wall and foundation for the garage are probably further back that the clipping distance and are thus not showing. A similar thing is happening with the room in the bottom right hand corner where you cant see any color on the rear wall because the rear wall is behind the clipping plane. Use Auto Detail and all the foundations should hatch the same. Post the plan if you want confirmation.
  4. Also in the General Camera defaults.
  5. Rob, The fact that the first pic is a Framing Overview suggests that there is a framing object in your plan that is located away from the actual floor plan itself. This may depend on the layer set in use and the relevant layer settings. You could do a quick check whilst in a camera view by turning off any framing layers that are in use as well as the CAD, Default layer which may contain framing members, and then doing a Fill Window zoom. Find the framing object and delete it. The same object would also effect the Perspective Floor Overview, and possibly the other camera views as well.
  6. Larry, Try Defaults...Camera...General Camera...General panel, Perspective View Options...Reflections checkbox. Or in the Camera's Specification dbx on the Camera panel...General.
  7. The flush eave is too wide when used in conjunction with a brick veneer wall (for example). It looks like it is the same width as the outside brick skin(in this case 110mm). It would normally only be the width of the flush eave material itself (maybe 10-20mm), not the full width of the outerskin of the gable wall. The normal soffit lining would extend to the back of the flush eave lining and the flush eave lining would project down below the soffit lining about 30mm to take a quad (or similar) molding - (although I understand that could be getting a little hard to do). In the case of a timber framed wall, it doesn't look too bad (I assume because the outer wall layer thickness of the gable wall is only 10mm) except for the fact that there would not be a vertical join line between the flush eave lining and the gable wall - the external lining would continue from the gable wall across the flush eave in continuous lengths. I think the width of the flush eave needs to be controlled by the flush eave material thickness and not the thickness of the outer layer of the gable wall. I have sent in several bug reports about the flush eave feature and with each beta version they have improved, but they still need a little more work.
  8. Scott, The problem with the solid looking railing is that both your Width and Spacing settings for the balusters is 2". These settings mean that you have 2" balusters at 2" ON CENTER, which means they are abutting each other with no gap between.
  9. Larry, Is this what you are after? Or do you want different stem wall heights? This is all auto. I can do a Skype if you want - no charge!
  10. Newell, Are you sure you are moving the top of the stairs on level 1. Or are you moving that "Open Below" text box on level 2. The extra "walls" on level 2 in section are not walls, they are filled cad polylines created by the Auto Detail command. They are the wall fill from the walls in your old section. Delete them and then Auto Detail again - probably best to delete all the auto detail cad from the section before redoing Auto Detail. it looks like you have dropped the level 2 ceiling height as well - that is why they extend up above the ceiling and there is ceiling insulation level with their tops.
  11. Tim, Specify your stair with a Stringer Top equal to the solid railing height and a Closed Stringer. This just uses the stringer as the rail. There are limited options though - ie, no thickness setting. Although you can still do a newel and capping rail. All in the stair dbx. Are you on X8 or X9? This is X8. X9 is different.
  12. You can turn the indicators off at Preferences...Edit...Behaviors...Behavior Indicators. Probably better to leave them on though that icon is telling you there is a problem. Have you tried Build...Wall...Fix Wall Connections or Connect Walls from the Edit toolbar when a wall is selected?
  13. Now that was painful!
  14. Scott, We have already had a couple of sessions. Let me know if you want to do some more (gratis). You have my Skype address.
  15. No, not really - where did that come from? The best tool looks to be setting the drop ceiling details in the Ceiling Finish section of the Room Specification dbx.
  16. Jim, This is probably not much good as it is metric. You should be able to find something similar in the US. http://cowdroy.com.au/media/Exposed_90_web_Sept16.pdf
  17. Ah, yes, I thing that's what I was alluding to when I edited my post #49
  18. Michael, I don't understand. There is no material attached to the Joist Direction Arrow?
  19. Michael, I just amended my last post as you were posting. There are a few weird things going on here.
  20. Michael, I'm not sure if you are aware, but you can open up the Joist Direction Specification dbx that controls the ceiling joists and change the spacing and depth there and those values are reflected in the Joist Direction arrow label. But it's a bit weird because when you build the ceiling joists, the ceiling joist spacing obeys the setting in the Joist Direction Specification dbx, but it doesn't obey the joist size. The joist size comes from the room ceiling default.
  21. Michael, I think we use different methods. My way: http://screencast.com/t/OYLlNqF6YXS .
  22. Following on from the other thread that covers this topic. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/12444-how-to-drop-a-single-rooms-ceiling-height-two-story-building/?page=2#comment-107039 In the lower floor room where you want to have the drop ceiling, you need to use the Ceiling Finish settings (with a framing layer and NOT the Ceiling Structure settings.