Larry_Sweeney Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 I'm trying to run a bed molding at my soffit as shown in the attachment drawing. Can this be done in CA? I'm stumped! I've tried using it as a frieze, shadow molding (with offsets) and using a 3D molding p-line. I just want the bed molding only. The frieze boards I installed with p-solids due to the 45 degree angle of the frieze board under the eaves. I would think I should be able to do this with a 3D molding p-line. When viewing the gable in elevation I run the 3D molding p-line down the gable, but then how do you turn it to go back along the eaves correctly and get it to look as shown in the attachment? When trying to install the bed molding as a frieze it will run around the soffit, but not as in the attached drawing. When the bed molding runs along the eaves it is shows incorrectly. I've spent hours trying to figure out a solution. Any and all help will be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 That's a tricky one in Chief since Chief wants to orient moldings according to the direction the profile was drawn. I can think of 3 options off the top: Drawn the molding polyline(s) parallel/perpendicular to the X/Y/Z axis and then convert to symbol and position appropriately. Use solids instead of moldings Use multiple molding p-lines with multiple molding profiles (some profiles rotated and some not) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 Nice thought Eric. Good job. What's really great is that X11 fixed the issue with edited roof moldings and gutters. Once those moldings are separated from the roof plane, they remain stable and no longer get deleted when the roof is changed. This means you can use the special shadow board molding behaviour independently of the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 6 minutes ago, solver said: Something to ponder. This is a molding applied as a Shadow Board. I unlocked the Roof Trim layer and select the molding polyline. Copied and pasted into a new plan. I did that early on. If I remember correctly, once I aligned the "shadow board" back to my 45 degree eave board the bed mold rotated to vertical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Michael.................Are you saying that what I stated to Eric might not occur using X11? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 5 minutes ago, Larry_Sweeney said: Michael.................Are you saying that what I stated to Eric might not occur using X11? Correct. You do have to be careful with exactly HOW you edit that molding poly line though and you're really better off just using the roof plane to get it shaped correctly before disconnecting it and using it as its own entity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 1 minute ago, solver said: I sort of imagined creating a roof with a 0 overhang, copying the polyline, which would be the correct size, then moving it down into place. Same thing I was thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Eric...............I realize the mistake I was making. I'm ashamed to be saying it. Early on I did exactly what you are explaining to me now. I now realize now I had my eave set for a plumb cut and not a square cut. ---OLD FART MOMENT! The hardest thing is getting the molding all lined up correctly. It would be nice if we could highlite one line of the molding p-line and use "Transform/Replicate" and be able to move the line accurately. All kind of "things" start showing incorrectly when trying to move a 3D molding p-line.---------- At least for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 4 minutes ago, Larry_Sweeney said: All kind of "things" start showing incorrectly when trying to move a 3D molding p-line.---------- At least for me. Its not just you. Its all of us. You just have to be VERY careful and deliberate about which views you edit those 3D moldings in. You basically have to use a different elevation view for each and every segment that turns a corner or each plane. and only edit one end node at a time making sure to monitor that you did the right thing before moving on to the next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKitchenAbode Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 The other consideration when using the 3D molding polyline is that CA can only do miter type joints(one angle), it can't do two angles like a compound miter saw. If you are transitioning around the corner of a wall into say a gabled wall you need one or more transitional pieces before angling up into the gable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 FINISHED!............ Eric & Michael............Thank you for your advice! Have a great day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 Using a shadow board. The trick was getting it aligned correctly all the way around the building Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Did you try using a FRIEZE? Admittedly I have not had great success using a FRIEZE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 Scott.............When I attempted to use "frieze" the bed molding would be in the vertical/perpendicular position at the eaves. It also wasn't showing on some eaves. As far as I can figure this situation out, the way it was discussed by Eric, is the only way to do this work around.---------VERY TIME CONSUMING! I almost had it figured out on my own, but I had my eaves set for a plumb cut instead of a square cut. Thanks to Eric I was corrected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 1 minute ago, Larry_Sweeney said: Scott.............When I attempted to use "frieze" the bed molding would be in the vertical/perpendicular position at the eaves. It also wasn't showing on some eaves. As far as I can figure this situation out, the way it was discussed by Eric, is the only way to do this work around.--------- Ahh, got it.... thus the reason you were using square cut eaves vs plumb cut eaves.... thanks, nice tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kMoquin Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 I did it with a shadow board and fiddled with the offsets on the shadow board tab. I had to adjust the depth of the rake to make the gable end work. Rake Bed.zip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 Kevin.........................Your way could possibility work in some cases. In my instance my eave and gable overhangs were different lengths and when adjusting the offsets they move both eave and gable using the same offset distance. I built a completely separate roof a specified distance from my model, adjusted it's size and baseline height to make a bed mold shadow board the size I needed to fit the frieze area on my model. I then copied it directly across to my model. Yes, it was a PITA getting it to fit correctly, but I think it's the only way I could do it under my circumstances. Of course I would be tickled pink if someone comes up with a quicker solution, but I have my doubts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 good thread Larry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 Scott.......................Thank you. Your complement is much appreciated. It seems every time I get into a project anymore I'm "taxing" CA with an unusual problem, but I love the challenge and the program. Lately I've been doing a lot of work in my cabinet shop building period furniture for my family and have been away from the computer and CA. I'm getting to a point in my life where one has to start thinking about leaving "heirlooms" for the kids. Here's my latest cabinet project. It's styled after an early 1800's painted Pennsylvania corner cupboard. I made it from a stash of quarter sawn pine I have that was cut from virgin timber 150 yrs. ago and never used. By counting the growth rings in some of the boards, the trees were growing before Columbus came to North America. It was built in the same way that it would have been built in the early 1800's. The hardware was all handmade. All this probably doesn't mean much to you, but when you love your work, whether it's designing a house or building a piece of furniture, you have to "show off" sometimes. Sorry about getting "off track"-------------Have a great day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridge_Runner Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Nice piece of work, Larry. That took a few hours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 I had 6 weeks into it. I wanted to have it finished for Christmas, but I was three week late.---------- Oh well, my wife still accepted it. All the moldings were made with old molding planes. Almost all parts were attached by wooden pegs. I used 200yr. old glass in the door. The H hinges were hand forged. All the wood was hand planed. The 20" shelving was all made from a single width board----no glue ups. The painting took over a week to get the correct patina and decorated look. The kids are already trying to decide who will get first dibs. This is my 5th or sixth piece I've made for my wife/kids, so there will be plenty to go around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridge_Runner Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 You are fortunate to have access to materials of that quality. A thing of the past I am afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 Quote Mike............Yes, I was very lucky to find it. I had a cousin in the lumber business that bought the contents out of a huge warehouse that was stuffed full of about anything you could imagine. There was about 1000 bf. of old growth clear pine stacked in it. We finally found out it was cut around 1900 by the great grandfather of the present owner. Lucky for my cousin, no one remembered was there. He ended up getting it for pennies on the dollar. The first thing he did was call me. I will never (or anyone else) ever see Eastern White Pine like that. Some of the boards were over 30" wide with growth rings as tight as 1/32" apart. You must remember, these boards aren't salvaged pieces. They were never used before. I "almost" felt guilty cutting them. They will be used for very special projects. Hopefully I'll live long enough for all the "right" projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Also. too bad we can't add any moldings to a sloping soffit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry_Sweeney Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 Perry.................I'm not sure what you mean. Could you clarify a little more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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