designing R panel metal roofing


wolfrem68
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On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 8:58 PM, Kbird1 said:

When you installed the program , did you download the Core Catalog libraries when asked?

if not goto Library >Download Core Catalogs....

 

On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 8:58 PM, Chopsaw said:

When you installed the program did it ask you to download Core Catalogs ?   If you did not go to Library > Install Core Content.

 

On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 9:03 PM, Kbird1 said:

Chopsaw has the Wording correct.....

 

On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 9:07 PM, Chopsaw said:

Yes that took an extra millisecond but it was hauntingly similar to your post.:blink:

I noticed the similarity too Chopper. Thanks for

taking the extra time to get the wording right. B)

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9 hours ago, Rich_Winsor said:

 

 

 

I noticed the similarity too Chopper. Thanks for

taking the extra time to get the wording right. B)

 

that's alright ...take the piss .... :)  I work hard to beat CS to every post :) ....... was just making sure I didn't confuse a Newbie is all.....

 

M.

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1 hour ago, wolfrem68 said:

the auto rebuild is off. Wall height is 12' what is needed for the ceiling height to give space for the trusses. Trusses are 2 x 6.

 

No need to turn it off at this stage ,especially on such a simple roof , it was on is my guess and made the 1st Roof , then you raised the ceiling height to 12 feet ( so walls went up) but have not rebuilt the Roof.

 

I am thinking you may have dragged the walls up to 12ft on each side did you ? ( instead of adjusting the room height) , are they at their Default Top and bottom Heights on the Structure Tab? (at the top) , cos normally a roof plane will stop a Wall from moving up automatically and that doesn't appear to be the case here. If the walls are Auto and the Roof is Auto it should build the Roof at the correct height and thus the Trusses will build at that height too ( after a rebuild as mentioned previously).

 

M.

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14 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

 

that's alright ...take the piss .... :)  I work hard to beat CS to every post :) ....... was just making sure I didn't confuse a Newbie is all.....

 

M.

Sorry KB. I wasn't ragging on you. My intent was to

facetiously comment on Chop's willingness to go the

"extra mile/millisecond" for us. It just struck me as

funny, but I didn't mean to imply that you wouldn't

put out the extra effort to get it right. At least I cracked

myself up. :)

 

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16 hours ago, Rich_Winsor said:

Sorry KB. I wasn't ragging on you. My intent was to

facetiously comment on Chop's willingness to go the

"extra mile/millisecond" for us. It just struck me as

funny, but I didn't mean to imply that you wouldn't

put out the extra effort to get it right. At least I cracked

myself up. :)

 

 

Oh no worries :) i guess it wasn't clear from my smilies that I knew you were just teasing me.....

 

We actually posted almost at the exact same time.....

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4 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

 

I may have actually posted before you on that one Mick.  Your just closer to the server.:D

 

I do believe I am slightly closer to Idaho than you :)  however it seems to post before you or Eric I have to come here at 2AM :) but all good, as long as someone is answering right !

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Hey guys, I hate to be a pest but I need a suggestion. I have completed my pole barn drawing with the exception of the exterior wall sheathing on the gable end on the trusses. I have searched videos, references and the tutorials with no luck. I found the sheet metal layer after two days waiting for the files to download, (said my internet was slow, and times out) and finished walls. Thanks ahead of time.

Steve

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1 hour ago, wolfrem68 said:

I have completed my pole barn drawing with the exception of the exterior wall sheathing on the gable end on the trusses.

 

I usually use an attic wall specifically defined with just a sheathing layer and siding that will attach directly to the gable end wall truss.

 

Not sure about a pole barn.  Would that be just strapping and sheet metal ?  If so you would strap manually and then the wall would just be sheet metal or if you have trouble with the wall just use a p-solid drawn in elevation view.

 

Sorry about the chatter.  Glad you interrupted. ;)

 

If that does not work @ShaneK will be happy to tell you how he does it.

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Normally trusses will automatically remove/replace any (Automatic) Framing they intersect or in their immediate area eg Roof Rafters or Walls, and the Reduced Gable End Truss normally replaces the Gable End wall's (Attic) Wall Framing automatically if it is placed correctly behind the Sheathing.

 

This is just a Test Building which I put Trusses on only 1/2 the roof and as you can see the Reduced Gable End Truss (Black) has removed the wall framing seen on the other end of the Building. As you can also see there is no rafters between the trusses I made White for easier identification

 

*** rebuild framing if you don't get similar results

 

image.thumb.png.121eb5c13ca94d436bdb9f417edb2756.png  image.thumb.png.0d462741461f2e33a5fd6b11ecf44d12.png   image.thumb.png.69ab60d2599e4e9b76261e36ccfd4f21.png   image.thumb.png.8b19cbb562f3faec49c147212a77f819.png  image.thumb.png.b3a511e5dc11c644031d3d1d92eb1be8.png

 

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I'm kinda late to the party, but is this roof structure the kind in which 2x4 purlins lay atop the trusses on 24 or 32-inch centers, and the ribbed roofing fastens to the purlins?

 

Because if there are to be purlins, and the OP needs how-to advice on their modeling, let's have a new thread for that.

 

Reading all through this makes me wonder if the OP has yet realized the basics of how Chief builds roofs and trusses, and further, how Chief's tools are most efficiently used to model a conventional pole barn.

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