SketchB Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 How can I apply molding on the exterior part of the wall? All I see is for the interior parts of the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 There is a Frieze Molding controlled by the roof plane DBX that usually goes at the top of the wall but can be offset. Will this work or are you after something different ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SketchB Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 Will this work with a parapet wall (wall extending above the roof) too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Yes likely it will. You may need a positive offset. Give it a try and post a screen shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SketchB Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 Will do and let you know. Ty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SketchB Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 I hope the attached will give you some understanding. The RED pointers pointing in the direction where i would like to add an exterior crown all the way around the building at the top edge, in addition to a lower band as indicated. The BROWN pointers shows where i would like to create an indent line across the exterior wall and would like to know how to. Hope you will be able to help now. TY Exterior Crown.bmp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 The crown should be able to be controlled by the roof plane Frieze Molding if you have roofs. Then the banding can be done with a wall material region. Post the plan and Eric or I will have a go. Also when posting images .jpg works much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SketchB Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 I am not so familiar yet, and thats why i ask and appreciate everyones help. Although, i feel already accomplishing by being able to do the file attached. Has no roof, as i wasnt sure how to create a flat roof, plus extend the wall above. Will use jpeg. live and learn. Wall crown band.plan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 I used an exterior room molding polyline for the top crown which works well and then some wall material regions for the banding which is a little tricky at the outside corners and then I had an issue with the crown at the corner and it did not work out so well. Maybe Eric will have a better suggestion there. Wall crown band Chopped.plan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 Here is a 3D molding Polyline drawn in elevation view to match the angle on the front and then extended in plan view, copied and mirrored over to the other side of the room. Not a great looking miter, but maybe this it the problem Grahm was taking about here: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/18027-moldings/?do=findComment&comment=150671 "From my playing around it's as if you only have a miter saw, so anything requiring a compound miter seems to be out of the question." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennw Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 Chopsaw, For the crown molding, I think you need to do this. Isn't that how you would do it in real life? I don't think you could ever get those moldings (one on the horizontal and one on the angle) to miter on a corner. This crown molding is drawn with one 3D Molding line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 That looks fine Glenn. Did you break it in elevation view and straighten out the end bit before going around the corner ? Still working on my trim carpentry skills but I think that is a difficult one in real life. Curious if you were able to keep the line joined at the peak ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennw Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 2 hours ago, Chopsaw said: Curious if you were able to keep the line joined at the peak ? No problem. That only took 3 seconds to do. I started with the left side elevation and drew the horizontal 3d Molding Line, went around the corner in plan view and then dragged a new line segment up the gable. Lastly dragged a new line segment down the other side of the gable. No need to do any breaking. The trick with 3D Molding Lines is to always draw them in a cameral view that is perpendicular to the molding line. I think this way is the best way to do it in real life and Chief - funny about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKitchenAbode Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 8 hours ago, Chopsaw said: Here is a 3D molding Polyline drawn in elevation view to match the angle on the front and then extended in plan view, copied and mirrored over to the other side of the room. Not a great looking miter, but maybe this it the problem Grahm was taking about here: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/18027-moldings/?do=findComment&comment=150671 "From my playing around it's as if you only have a miter saw, so anything requiring a compound miter seems to be out of the question." Yes that's the issue. To do that type of connection in real life you would need to do a compound miter, cut two angles at the same time. The 3D Molding tool can only cut one angle. You can get fairly close by inserting a transition piece such as Glenn did. I have done this and it you set the line length of the transition piece really low, say 1/16" or 1/8" it is barley noticeable. Depending on the angles two transition pieces may need to be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 The compound miter problem is unfortunate. It results from the fact that the molding profile is always horizontal/vertical. If there was a way for Chief to know that the profile should be rotated to a specific angle on any given segment then compound miters could be done. If the profile is round and it's offset vertically & horizontally by -1/2 the diameter then they will miter very close to correctly. Actually they should miter exactly but there is evidently a miscalculation in the software so the miters don't quite meet. If the profile size is small enough it might be "close enough". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMc Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 Had to do something along these lines for a pediment once, another time for cathedral ceiling. IRL I once did installed the exterior crown on a Carpenter Gothic with tons of these. Made my head hurt. I had a couple of little programs that worked out the cuts and I'd go home at night and try to work corners out, getting the angles and the math made my head hurt. This was before digital was common so I relied on t-bevels and foam core. The worst was getting around the copper drains that were already installed. When I did this in Chief last time it was something like real life. Made the molding flat first, converted to a millwork symbol and rotated. The pediment was easier thanks to the gap between the sides. (wonder if that's how that developed to begin with?) Here I took those symbols and adjusted the stretch zones so I could "lop off" the ends and put them together. I'd only bother to do this on a model if dimensions were settled since you have to work them all out ahead of time, and it was really important (there's there's also my tendency to be a weenie). Note that I had issues getting the blocks correct which made it less workable fitting it to walls. But this was a quickie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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