MarkMc

You can adjust reveals using blank areas if it's important enough. I don't usually bother with that condition but worth knowing about. I've asked for independent control of reveals -not likely to happen. I only bother with it for tops of cabinets, ovens and really fussy clients. Adding blanks can have other consequences, notably in CAD details with doors turned off, it also affects a macro I use for a cabinet brand label. Cabinet on left is standard, the one in center has 1-9/16" blank area added.

Only the license is transferable, SSA is not may want to reevaluate

I agree with Michael. I'd add three things I've done (do). Take an introductory course if you can't, won't or don't want to do the tutorial. Read the Reference Manual in your spare time, keep it on your phone randomly is fine, regularity is important. As to the forum look at everything, every day. Read some, try to solve someone else's problem on your own and check back to see how you did. Then try the best answer(s) given if you are off. I'd double down on read the help (f1 key) and only ask here after beating your head in for a while.

From plan that has the sets you want go to file. Export annotation sets. Pick a place to keep them. Name it something useful to remember, then import that

I have a couple of annosets specific to elevation dimensions (I find the auto more time consuming to fix) but for what you are asking that is not needed. For wall elevations (as opposed to sections) dimensions work best if you drag inside the view NOT outside. Then it's just what is listed in locate objects, again your not asking for much. If you set your dimensions default to proximity fixed you can drag dimension inside the view, then just throw them toward outside and they all end up neatly placed

That's where I got it from-didn't you make a Maseratti once?

This might get you going- nowadays I like to make those appliances I can from cabinets when I want to show doors open, (even it not exactly accurate) I had a rough Samsung 4 dr I needed a while back for a crazy flush install. Stuck that in here then changed some parts to door symbols, then decided to make a few quickies with recess handles for you. You could get more involved. Hacked the ice maker off a GE Cafe, using delete surface after changing smoothing angle to something like 180. There may be better ice makers to use. (hey whatdayawantfornuttin Cabinet doors start as psolids, convert to solids, etc... Black stainless- I didn't have any reference handy so just took a guess. You're going to have to fuss with texture on the new doors, not sure whats up with that. I changed for the image. Samsung 4 dr.zip

I never worried about it myself until I had trainee handing me files where dims were off, then looked it up. It's sort of pick your poison IMO.

I'd been using Logitech M570 for years. Recently with change to desk and monitor I ended up with wrist/arm issues and needed to change something. (eventually discovered part was where I placed new monitor and moved my location). I first tried the new Logitech Ergo, disliked software and didn't solve it. Ended up trying vertical mouse (forget which) a sort of vertical mouse (Kingtop) and a mess of trackballs-too many to list. I also tried a mess of wedges, supports, wrist things.... I ended up with an Elecom EX-G Pro as my go to day to day.It's a lot like the M570-thumb driven ball, angle of hand to device is slightly different as is tilt, more buttons too.That is my go to with Chief though I did switch the ball and use one from a 570 in it, rolls a little more the way I'm used to. I also kept a finger driven Elecom-the Huge. I switch to that off and on, usually when doing non Chief things since I haven't adapted completely to some of the click and drag operations I like with it. But it is a very comfortable device, I tried really hard to adapt to it overall. Just since I liked it and it was cheap I also kept the Kingtop and once in a while I use that for whatever. Switching helped me heal a bit faster (pretty much fine now and try to use the phone left handed) At one point I also considered trying a left handed Elecom Ex-G. All in all I'm really hapy with the Elecoms. I know Kbird likes finger drive.

What it uses depends on default settings. In each of the attached the first wall was drawn at 120". The perpendicular wall added by pulling the diamond on the end. Each pair represents a different setting in wall defaults, general, resize about. First two are about inner and outer surface-notice that the dimension is different depending on which direction you make the new wall. The third is as you note, about center in which case both dimensions are the same BUT neither is 120 due to resizing about wall center. Wondering-are you trying to draw a section of wall and then just add another section to the end in the same direction? The biggest problem I've had with folks I've trained has been working interiors and leaving the temp dimensions set to the default but using dimensions that are to surface. The other issue is paying attention when resizing a wall to the little arrows and which way it resizes. I guess Tommy will get you through but as I indicated it would still be a good idea to read up on some of this. Like Graham I often draw rough and finish out dimensions later. But nowadays I'm most often starting with an accurate overall length, then adding interior walls and locating those as I go. Doing this all the more since I started measuring with a laser directly into Chief. I recently throught together a spreadsheet to add chained dimensions up from hand drawn sheets clients send me. Attached in zip file-was made in Libre Office, converted a version to excel and I thinkthe formulas are simple enough to work there too but I didn't check that. Dimension worksheet.zip

Check dimension defaults, locate. Be sure to also look at walls, size about. Can't quite tell from your description why things are changing on you but it sounds like a good idea to read up on those or watch a video as that's not a typical problem.

On an iPad you'd be using the room planner app. There's section of the forum specific to that where you can find info. I just started using a Disto X3, but that is directly into Chief on my Spectre 2in1.

Is mouse orbit camera selected? If not well... If yes check mouse battery, then driver, otherwise don't know

Or into the shelf dialog as rollouts.

Typically those are installed fresh but x10 has the ability to migrate them as an option during install. Perhaps that was accidentally left on and since there was nothing to migrate that's what you got? Guessing but I'd uninstall reinstall and make sure it wasn't set to migrate.

I had a trial of PDF2CAD that I really liked. Had it for the longest time and didn't expire, when it suddenly did I was a bit short and not in great need so didn't replace it. So I've been checking some out recently as the need arose again. Cheapest one I found that I like is a plugin for Draftsight, it works with the free version of Draftsight. I use TurboCad but gettng used to Draftsight so may go that way https://www.graebert.com/pdfimport/ THe most full featured one I ran across but as expensive as Print2CAD. I tested this briefly over the summer and again recently on a different machine when they were running a sale. I passed but if you get a lot of PDFs and many with problems or have raster images in them it's worth a look. Just noticed it is still on sale.

DO you have a lot of point lights on?

A little more not a lot. OTOH opened 4 views each a separate room from Grandview-set all to PBR, 50 lights, improve lighting, raytrace shadows, reflections, ray cast shadows. GPU pegs at 100 for a second or two, video engine is 0, and max on bus interface is 15 BUT video memory hits 85% with 4 open, added in one standard view and it's at 95% and that doesn't drop even after the GPU goes to rest. .Those are on a 2560 display, would guess 4K needs more. -no lag navigating the views. There's a thread back last year when PBR came out where a lot of folks ran tests (I think it was in Q & A?) Everyone's GPU pegged to 100% during initial loading as far as I remember. (most CPUs cranked up a bit at first too) Those were all static, no one dealt with walk throughs (I don't use em)

I'd asked at the Academy in August if they knew if Chief would or could be optimized for the new RT aspect of the cards. At that time they had just gotten back from the launch and had no information. I intend to wait to hear. Talk on gaming forums is often either "wait and see" or "not worth it but will bring 10 series prices down". Now gaming is not Chief so there are challenges in distinguishing value there. I'm also keeping an eye on the AMD 7nm cards. I'd been hoping to get a new machine in 2019 but for the moment don't see it worth the cost. FWIW I think your Strix has 4GB Vram, yes? I manage to behave pretty badly with my 980m which has fewer cores but 8GB-might be worth keeping in mind?

While Rich's answer will solve some things there is a lot ot getting decent interiors. Search the forum for goodies- there is a huge thread that goes back a ways with tons of information on renderings.You find two threads with the search- oldest one is more about ray trace, newer one PBR goodies is about PBR and has some issues folks ran into with RT once PBR was offered. Note that the many (most) have switched to PBR.

Select the room, edit toolbar, make room molding polyline. Then right click to select that edge of pline and "no molding on selected edge"

A drawing to use to get a quote is not the same thing as a shop drawing. The drawing if presented to a client and the quote when returned always indicate something to the effect "final dimensions and pricing to be determined after template on job site" A decent drawing gets a more accurate quote- makes for happier client.

I'm with Tommy and Graham too. Had been doing so many baths and gotten really tired of fighting to get the side wall to extend a few inches past the glass and meet the curb I made some symbols for showers. Exploded solids to faces so I could have different materials on each- few partition walls, half wall, glass wall, glass wall with notch so I don't end up with extra lines on drawings for glass bids. Took a couple of hours and has saved a good bit more.

An alternative solution- made completely from cabinets which gives control over all modlings, and faces. You still need to make a custom counter top to get the middle section and can run into some issues when resizing the corners. Also once blocked clips show up on the back of the cabinet but go away once unblocked. There are always several ways to get there in Chief-just a matter of which your are most comfortable with. as cabinets.plan

Several ways to get what you want but not with auto fillers. (I've not used auto in years; don't show in schedule among other things) You can alter one of symbols in the link- increase and lock depth, may need to change origin. For what you are after I place a filler, leave it checked as a filler, change front to door panel/slab. Place in library. Often noted as filler overlay. To get both fillers and overlays properly into schedule I have blocks in library made of a filler 3/4" deep, door panel set on the face, and a psolid no material, very thin to force all to correct depth from wall. After placing fillers in plan go around room and use replace from library.