MarkMc

Since you simply edited your first post to add the plan in I'm guessing no one saw the update, hence the wait. You mention glass but none is in the plan so not sure if you want it. AS it is drawn -just openings then You can draw the railing wall and the invisible wall and get the ends to look correct. You can also drop the floor and get the same result BUT if you drop the floor AND lower the room height to create that soffit detail then the wall ends don't work properly any more. To fix that I'd either add the soffit detail manually along with a second ceiling plane there assuming you need one. Attached is image showing that and the downside to it. If you go that way AND you need the walls to have different finishes on each side THEN Once you are happy with the placement convert to a solid, then explode the solid. Once exploded you can paint each face of it whatever you want. OR to cover the ends with polyline solids or faces. IF YOU have glass then.... If you do have a glass wall with a door on the front and a partial wall with glass above on the side then in the configuration you have (and many others) Chief will always muck up the exposed faces. You can sometimes fix it by flipping wall direction, editing wall intersections and or adding little tiny invisible walls perpendicular-none of which I personally find easy to deal with. The standard work around AFAIK is to cover the face with a polyline solid. (Unless someone out there knows more than I do) NOW as an alternative since I get a lot of showers many that are a problem- I recently made some symbols that I drop onto the wall. Each symbol was started as a polyline solid, converted to a solid, then exploded. Make them one at a time in a blank plan, convert to symbol, fixture interior-I'm still playing with the options tab to see what I like. Then read up about stretch planes and zones in symbols (unless you have just a rectangle) I then draw the walls for the shower as I would normally but drop these symbols over the solid wall sections if I need them. This will prevent extra lines in vector views, cover the end of the wall, allow a side wall to extend 2" past a glass wall, and let me place framing with only a bit of editing. A fistful of symbols took less than an hour, save the plans in case I need more adjustment than a symbol allows. The time spent was made up for on the very first job (last pic) used them again a week later on a weird kitchen.

Guessing - room or room molding polyline?

I took your symbol and made a new one from it-"fixtures exterior"-options inserts into wall-set depth to 4-5/8; NO origin offestes. One side will flush out fine, have to move it for the second side but easy enough just using arrow key. Once one is placed I used copy reflect to get them on the other corners. It is off a tad as Chop notes- I think it's off by the thickness of the faces you used to build it (don't remember if they are 1/64 or 1/128 but I think it's 64) We met in Idaho and talked about this some, I rummaged through my archives and double checked but we did not bother with the corners. Joe's idea is worth a shot too. A spin off of that is to build some complete wall symbols with cutouts, saving the plans to be able to adjust the cutouts as needed. Forgot- when I say entire walls as symbols I mean as fixtures exterior-either inserts into or hangs on a wall. Which my make dealing with textures easier (as does Joe's method) Dovetail Inserts.plan

I found all doors less work and better in plan than mixing in windows but all doors has the swing indicators in elevation. OTOH-I liked the symbol idea enough to go and make a fistful of standard "shower" part symbols. I get a lot of showers-the two most annoying issues I run into are an "L" shaped glass on a knee wall and a side wall that extends an inch or two in front of the glass. Yeah there are solutions for both but the symbols are a bit faster. Framing for the tall wall is easy enough, the knee wall is harder but I already have symbols for that but not sure they get into material list. While playing with it I discovered an odd quirk-If I copy the glass wall that has a symbol with options insert into wall 2-1/2" the wall copies with the cutout. Not sure how useful it is though since adding a knee wall there simply replaces the glass wall.

Yes and no. This is my second Clevo both were up-gradeable. Part of why I went to the wall on this one is that I discovered on the first one that it sounds better than it works IRL. My current machine is but the most I could get into it for a GPU is a 1060 with a kit which is barely better than what I have. OTOH the parts are far more easily replaced if a problem arises. So not needing a complete MOBO is a bonus (however I see that Intel is or has switched some CPUs back to soldered). As to the drives- what Mick said-the config I showed had another HDD for data since using an SSD for that makes zero difference in performance (I've tested extensively) and I wouldn't leave home without one a separate data drive.

Got contacted about this-what you want can be had for the price so long as you stay away from machines with desktop processors. I'd suggest looking at HIDevotution.com or Xoticpc.com. They carry machines from just about every gaming outfit and know what they are doing. You can contact them directly and they actually know a bit (but they are gamers mostly) I like Clevo machines-available as Sager or Evoc. My next one will be an Evoc from HIDevolution. Clevos will be configurable so you get to pick what you get (like which SSD..) Evoc comes with Prima Bios which is nice since the only downside to Clevo is little to no BIOS updates. In most cases you have to be sure to ADD Windows since in most cases they come without but will install it. FWIW I would not be without Raid 0 again-which simply requires ordering with two smaller SSDs instead of a big one and asking them to set it up (on Clevo machines) This one starts at $1500 and i7-8750H, GTX1070 8GB, two 970 EVO in Raid 0, 16 GB ram, win 10 home -upped the cooling the the wireless hits $2100. You could go higher on it or lower- there are other options and brands. Check over at NotebookReview.com in the forums-by brand and check the owners lounge for models you are interested in to see if they have issues (and yeah you have to wade through the gamer stuff)

I do that for all of them regardless-better schedules.

Easy when not really spending anything Looked above and below- 2.7k to barely improve from the Sager (5%maybe), 3K + to get a little better (10%) - the difference to this is a long term machine (25? +%) and the cost difference would be eaten with an upgrade or two later. I have a while yet, so will be checking both since I could keep using the Sager for a while and I like to try to plan these things so I know how much I need to target and figure out where in heck it's coming from....have to see what kind of boat I'm buying my dentist this time first.

Understood that and it makes a lot more sense IRL IMO. I was just fiddling to see what and how recovering from jet lag so pretty useless to do anything real.

I like Clevo laptops-great ports, good cooling, highly configurable, replaceable everything, zero bloatware. I'm on my second Sager/Clevo-at 2-1/2 yrs old it keeps pace with most desktops (I've only used laptops for over a decade). My next one will come from HIDevolution instead (one was from Sager, the other from Xoticpc). The one downside to Clevos is a lack of BIOS updates but HID works with Prima Bios who makes Bios for them and that is about the only way to get his bios. If I had to buy a machine now it would be a P870TM which starts at about $3k and I'd likely get it to $4k before ordering. If budget did not allow I'd get a P775TM1 which starts at $2k-it's the current equivalent of what I have now and would configure to about $3k when I was done. The biggest difference is in the chassis with the first one providing better cooling. If I could I'd wait until the first quarter of 2019 when the nVidia RTX cards will hit the market on hi-end laptops. (I'm hoping to get a new one toward the end of 2019 since nothing out there now gives me a sufficient performance boost). FWIW I check desktops every now and then and without fail the price for what I want is withing a couple hundred of the laptop I want. I configured a desktop yesterday with one-just the box and hit $4K thinking that my current laptop will be suitable as a secondary for several more years and hoping that this time the desktop price would be a good bit less-alas no. If it is a secondary machine and you don't need all the muscle then go for something with an HQ processor but I prefer to have a desktop processor.

I have lost the cursor on occasion ONLY when working in either OpenOffice or LibreOffice then going back to another program, often Chief. Have never lost it just working in Chief. It may also have to do with using multiple monitors since if I'm in one of those two programs they are always on a different monitor. I use Ultramon for monitor management and have a hotkey set to center the cursor on the primary screen which always brings the cursor back.

I'm with Mick on this. Can't load muntins in windows don't have a sash and can't if you make a custom window or door symbol that has the notch. Played with this a little, tried windows, and symbols with notches, also tried a cabinet to make a symbol. I also had difficulty getting the muntins of a symbol to line up with those on a real door even though they matched in the plan used to create the symbol. (could be the pilot though) Then getting all views plan elevation and perspective to look right was a PIA. At this point if I needed this I think I'd make the room with dividers and everything else with symbols just adding the door swing with CAD. Now if your muntins line up nicely with the notch as Mick shows IOW not like the photo-it is much easier to accomplish.

As Eric points out you don't really need or want to use 3D molding plines. Read up on the difference between those and regular molding lines-I prefer the reference manual myself over individual KB articles to get a good general idea of how and when. Notice that in the KB that you refer to they demonstrate a frame done in elevation, that is where 3D lines come into play. Your object can all be done in plan. To answer your original question-you could take a back clipped elevation and select each molding from that.

The plot plan shows some and part of foundation, no full plan with data.

Got your file open in TurboCad and it has problems. The model space where there should be information has only boxes that list as "images" but are blank. Think it is a problem with how they did blocks. I managed to get the kitchen layout that they have out with a little roundabout-printed to pdf and converted that back into a dwg. There is a section missing from it as well, my guess is a block that is referenced but not there. I imported that into a CAD detail in a chief plan, blocked it and put it on the plan page-attached. Have them send a dwg OR a pdf. You can download a trial version of a pdf to cad converter (there are a few). I'm testing a new one now (Print2CAD AI) from www.backtocad.com FWIW- I don't ever bother with CAD to walls-results are iffy at best. I block the DWG on the cad detail, place on it's own layer, copy, go to plan, paste and hold position. Unblock it and lock the layer but keep it visible. Then in your Defaults, plan defaults-check use snap grid, change the distance to 1/2" then turn of show snap grid and turn of grid snaps. (all you want is to change the distance) Now you can trace the plan walls quickly BUT Chief will snap the main layer of the walls which is why you changed the snap distance. Go around the model, select each wall and hit the appropriate arrow key to move it so that the surface layer (drywall -hence the 1/2") is now in the correct position. Then your good to go. From one 2020 refugee to another (though I left long ago but was there too many years Here is the plan with all that stuff done and the the dwg so you can do it yourself. Hoover import.plan Print2CAD-Hoover Kitchen.dwg

Post a plan.

The table is populated automatically from information that is in each layout page-tools, layout, edit page information -OR right click pages in the project browser. Some fields are usually set up ahead of time (BY you) in your template and some fields can use macros. Be a good idea to pick a reference and read it- the help, reference manual, basic videos, or the tutorial - to avoid frustration and get started with basic information. Also a good idea to fill in your signature for when it comes time to get more challenging help so we can help you.

Correct it should not be your hardware. OTOH I get cabinet placement a bit faster than you on more complicated plans having more tabs open than what your video shows. Your rig should be a tad faster than mine even though my C being RAID 0 could bench faster than yours. All the rest of yours is should be faster than mine. (and my plan files are on a HDD which I've tested keeping on both C and D-there is zero performance difference once the file is loaded.) When I compared I did place cabinets in elevation but I prefer placing symbols primarily in plan, especially cabinets- then again I'll often have an elevation (or several) open at the same time so may not matter. I don't get enough lag to fuss about. (dunno though since Mick seams to think what you show is not that far off) If it's not Ray Casted Shadows....The only things I can think of : What are your Windows Performance settings? I keep practically all of the eye candy/effects OFF. Other background programs? (even though you should be able to handle a good bit some can be trouble) run any performance monitors? Is heat control working well? do you purge your plan materials? CAD blocks? Is the file from an X10 template or earlier version? Is it from multiple "save as" versions? (plans grow with repeated Save As) As to the libraries-it appears from the video that you have quite a few? I don't think that slows the program itself down (?), but it will affect library searches (anyone know otherwise?) As libraries grow so does search time. (My C:/ProgramData/Chief..totals out to 16GB, user library is another 900MB) But I handle search differently whenever possible... I manage my libraries and rely heavily filters and the user library (with a filter just for it) AND project specific folders in the user library to minimize the need to search at all. For a lot of libraries I only copy a few things to my user library and delete that library. Downside is the copies won't update which I consider a small price to pay for performance. FWIW I've found the GE catalog to be less than stellar, I avoid it as much as possible.

By your specs you should not be having a problem even at 4k. Yours are a little better than mine and I run 17 at 1080, 24 at 1920, & 27 at 2560- and I usually have a lot of views open and a couple of plan files. Since you say"not all the time" I'm guessing it's plan dependent and since you are using Interior version I'm going out on a limb to guess that you may be importing a fair number of Sketchup symbols? and or making custom textrues? IF you are then I'd look at those as the source of the issues. Symbols with large file size, high face count, large texture images DPI and size. The only other thing is using lots of live views that are set to update automatically. I see Mick had the same idea

Saw someone requesting this and needed a break. Plan with two cabinets with functioning toe kick drawers. I did not include the shelf symbol used to create the drawer but have posted parts for that in the past. To make your own grab one of the roll outs or drawers I've posted stick a slab drawer head on it then play with the y origin and stretch planes/zones. Toe drawer cabinet.plan

Works for me on WIn 10-might be Win 7? check mouse driver and settings, other likely culprit.

I had been doing that but was getting too many templates. I switched to importing defaults where that works. So now templates are by ceiling height (current floor default) since those don't import. Naturally there are door, window, caibnet, casing etc but for those I import as needed. I also have one or two more challenging structures-raised ranch, split, stone house, timber frame... The nice thing is I can import cabinet defaults from one, doors and windows from another,....like that. Makes it easier to have views already sent to layout and sooo much simpler when updating templates for a new version. Along those lines I've taken to doing something similar with annotation sets since those were getting out of hand too. I'd split those up for "remodel" and "new construction" Since I began doing more work for others those methods have helped a lot to keep things a tad simpler, though I now need a couple of templates for each pro client.

Nice video. I switched from using psolids for rails and stiles to using cabinets for the frames and psolids. Easier to change rail styles widths on the fly and allows me to have the door symbol in the library set to "use default" which saves time in the long run. I still use psolid for panel (unless I already have a wainscot panel made) then copy and paste in place then convert to pline then again to 3D molding line for framing beads. When using a framing bead or making a raised panel door delete the cabinet to make a wainscot panel. The wainscot panel is handy and faster when remaking door with different rail/stile widths. Just a plan attached, no video. One of my saved door symbol plans with a few copy/move and adjusted to show variations and parts. The two on the right came from a different plan and are a little different They use door symbols for rails and stiles. A while back Renerabbit said that eased edges look better in higher quality renderings so I made some door symbols for rails and stiles with eased edges. Don't know if they are eased enough to make a difference but stopped playing with it. Used a similar principal for door with edge profile. Doors Misc.plan

Registry hack listed here Found similar on some other trusted sites. There is some software out there but I don't know it, appears old, and the issue has changed since initial Win 10 launch. Edit- if you are new to Windows- always back up registry before making changes, always.

Place the door in a blank plan, 3D view. Make a polyline solid that matches the size of the top panel-make it glass and give it a fill color like red. Also open the door symbol to check where the stretch planes are. Position you Pline solid where it would go in the door (which is why you used a filll) will have to do that both in plan and elevation. Then move it away a fixed distance you can remember-like 100". Use the delete surface tool to remove the upper panel. Move your glass psolid back in place-convert to a cabinet door symbol, set stretch planes.