robdyck

You can see in this view how the color elevation answers a lot of questions about the buildings appearance.

Plot Lines, Color Fill, and Pattern Line Defaults, but NOT Edge Line Defaults (usually). In the past, the Live View resulted in edge lines that were slightly blurry when viewing the pdf on screen...which causes eye fatigue. My MO is seeing..not looking!

They can print black and white...but it'll be gray scale. They can't 'turn off' the color. Grayscale printing will use a lot of black ink and in my experience some print shops do a great job and others do not. Think grayscale but using black ink only and at a 'draft' quality...not good!

I have clients that like color, others do not, others want both! For those that want both, I'll copy the elevation drawings to added pages at the very end of the layout. That way its simple for the client to omit them when printing. I limit my color use on floor plans to colors that are dark yet clearly distinguishable when viewing on screen, but will still print nicely if printed using black ink only.

A good reminder that whenever sending someone a dwg file, the kind thing to do is to list the exported parameters!

I like that David! I'll go with the above, although honestly, any perceived force is really just thinly veiled sarcasm.

It's ok kids, I'm just venting...I don't get frustrated!

I thought it was a carpenters rule: leave one unsanded and install one with grain perpendicular... 2700_C-A_X12.plan

When working with Chief, you learn to keep a miter saw, and tin-snips, and heck, even a chainsaw tucked right under the desk for easy access. I've learned that the sledge should be kept under lock and key in a different room!

I left this corner running into the post at angle because I didn't feel like modelling the whole darned thing. It would be a whole lot easier to extrude the rail if the model were built on Chief's supplied grid instead of way out in the boonies! Then the x,y,z coordinate would me much more intuitive!

Miters, bolts, counter-bores, glue, plugs, not necessarily in that order!

If this is what your after, it has to be built manually using every trick and method know to mankind. 3d molding for shoe beside stair 3d molding for handrail beside stair copy of stair converted to symbol for spindles manually adjusted wall polyline manually placed newels...all of them

@DH7777 These walls MUST be the SAME for the railing to connect. A slight difference in your pony wall elevation will disconnect them. IMO X12 doesn't really help here. Darren is using a pony wall and Chief won't allow us to control the shape of that pony wall. I think your best bet is: a 3d molding for the shoe and handrail Not a pony wall beside the stairs...instead manually adjust the wall's polyline (so you can clip the top) manually placed newels Create a section view from both sides of the staircase. Use CAD lines for reference to be parallel to your stairs and create your 3d moldings there. Quite quick once you've got the hang of it.

For that, I start with a single, End to End Dimension and just drag to each column center. Very easy then to add centerline markers if you wish. There's no real auto way to get columns dimensioned.

As Michael said, a Vector View with Plot Lines, Color Fill will probably deliver what your looking for. I'd suggest lowering the shadow intensity experiment with the use of Shading Contrast (technique options for Vector View). To reduce the perception of fuzziness, may I also suggest replacing that hairy font with something that's not afraid of a razor? Something sans serif should help reduce bleeding eyes when looking at that on a screen. Solid arrows will also improve the feel of the end result. Just suggestions...

In fact, I can't see anything at all! Kidding of course! Post an image showing the settings you currently use and the results...

To clarify Joe, there is no "Ground Elevation" in Chief. For terrain elevations there are: points lines splines regions breaks ...and Subfloor Height Above Terrain Perhaps when you say 'ground elevation' you are referring to one of the above terrain elevation tools? My point was simply this...You can initially model your terrain to match real world conditions without any regard for the building. Then, using "Subfloor Height Above Terrain", you can adjust the entire terrain up or down to your liking. Once it's close to your desired elevation, then its a good time to make the necessary adjustments to the elevations as it relates to the structure. It can also be handy to make a symbol of your modeled terrain and place it on its own layer as a point of reference. By contrast, if you have started to model your terrain, and somewhere along the way started modifying elevations based on the structure, it will get out of whack quickly. It's also helpful to create a hierarchy of interior lot elevation requirements to help with prioritizing the modification of the interior portions of the terrain. Often the grading percentage of the driveway to the street is the #1 requirement....

SOL...I don't have X10. A few notes: ensure your foundation walls are aligned with the main floor walls foundation walls will need to have "hang floor platform above on wall" checked in the Structure Tab. Main floor walls will need to be a pony wall with the lower wall matching the foundation walls, aligned at the "Main Layer Outside", and an elevation of 6" CAD editing will still need to be done in section view but the model will be correct. Otherwise, if you absolutely want the foundation wall to extend up 6" with out using a pony wall on the main floor, you'll need to manually adjust the top of the foundation wall and the bottom of the main floor wall.

All terrain elevation data is relative to the elevation of the TERRAIN PERIMETER. You can enter all terrain elevations using the correct geodetic data. You THEN adjust the elevation of the TERRAIN PERIMETER relative to the main floor. Just like surveying...up is down and down is up! That is to say that a larger positive number here (screenshot) will lower the terrain relative to the structure and a smaller, or negative number will raise the terrain.

11" is enough as long as the kids don't try to open them both at the same time!

And 11" away from the corner...a tidy inconspicuous bit of filler is all that's required.

No Problem. Every good framer knows that's how you derive the length of sub-fascia at bays. Here's an overview with cabinet boxes at the corners. Notice the doors overlap.

At every corner...that is 135 degrees

A good idea would be to give yourself some reference lines at 24" and 26" away from the drywall. In your example, you'd keep things centered, especially if there's a 135 degree corner at each end.

5:12 my friend. Reduce cabinets by 10" to meet at the frame, reduce by 10.5" to meet at the doors/drawers and reduce by at least 11" if you'd like the doors and drawers to open! For a bay wall like you've shown, a simpler method is to know the finished wall length, and subtract 12" at each 135degree corner.