robdyck

But can you set that increment? It makes for a pretty neat effect to use this while the building is spinning.

I played around with this for a bit and had a pretty decent result. I should've saved the plan. A few things I changed: more realistic backdrop (better daytime lighting) sun - light gray color, 1500, follows camera a galvanized steel texture to the duct molding, different material to the 'parts'. Edit both materials differently to look similar stamped 90 degree corners for the spiral ducting turned off half the recessed lights, created a light set, saved the camera. 6 added lights for ambient light at a lower elevation, does not cast shadows adjusted lights to 200, drop off of 5, lighting white material emissive = 2, transparecny 0 (you can't see into a recessed led light) PBR camera exposure = .35, brightness = 20 to 40 This makes for a good start at a decent PBR.

Honestly, it did cross my mind to see if we had some sort of toy kicking around that would work to pull the mouse at a steady rate.

I remember this being discussed, but my only solution was manual. Like you mentioned, stretch the slider window, and I make sure my mouse is on a very smooth surface, and butted up against a straight edge for a bit of extra control. Then I use my amazing core strength to hold my entire body perfectly still while my kids pull on the rope and pulley system attached to my office chair. Can't be beat, at least until i get the electric winch operating!

Only 5 would be needed from the example you posted, one for each color. If you indeed have 75 different colors or 'types' of polylines, then yeah, saved plan views would be cumbersome. In which case, I'd use a macro.

One master saved plan view with reference displays and a Saved Plan View for each color with a coordinating layer set will give you the control you need.

In this topic, I'm not sure exactly who actually has a question about this but I'll chime-in. The reason one gets a 4-piece corner is not because 'that's how Chief does it' but rather because the length of the wall has the corner positioned to overlap the location of the next stud. Adjust the length of the wall beyond the next stud in sequence and the corner framing will adjust to a typical 3-piece corner.

undo?

I do. I've done it both ways, where I provide the architectural direction for the manufacturer, and where I've provided the working drawings, under the supervision of the project engineer. In my experience, if a manufacturing shop has a engineer on staff or has an established relationship with an engineer, it is best for the manufacturer to provide the shop drawings. This allows them some flexibility with the spec. of various parts based on their experience and material availability. Much simpler for you to review and approve (if that is part of your process) the shop drawings than to attempt that yourself. Chief can do a great job of modelling the stairs, but yes, you may need to make several parts yourself. That particular example would be quite simple and very quick to model as well as to provide the necessary architectural info required for a manufacturer to provide an estimate or quote, and then shop drawings.

I really love their contemporary products. So much nicer than a concrete patio IMO, but very pricey!

You're welcome!

I just checked with Help. Here's the quote: When the Vector View rendering technique is used, you can select CAD> CAD Detail From View to create a 2D line drawing of the active cross section/elevation view in a CAD Detail window. This drawing can then be edited as needed. See CAD Detail from View.

You need a vector view. You're using a technical illustration

The only reason I mentioned rectangular, is because I thought that a designer who hasn't figured out how to quickly and simply make a vaulted ceiling 'flat' or level with the ground would only find it troublesome to make a 'flat' area from a complex shaped ceiling plane. Nothing to do with method. Slope/gain factors are simple for some, confusing for others. For a simple low profile detail like Gene showed, one could easily use a replicated ceiling plane to make that panel effect. While it wouldn't be correct when zoomed in (the edges would remain plumb) it would have looked fine for most views and is very fast to make.

That's odd. I don't have the answer. But it also seems weird that the layer set box is empty and the default setting box is empty. Also, where's the floor # box?

I've never heard of that problem before. Can you post a screenshot showing the issue?

https://www.sketchuptextureclub.com/textures/architecture/paving-outdoor/flagstone

https://www.techo-bloc.com/support/resources/technical-resources/designers-toolbox/

Thanks for your input Dermot. I just submitted the request.

@Dermot Maybe a Chief developer can chime in... I almost dread even dragging this on any further, and I hate to ask you to keep tying these explanations, but why would it be any different than any other shared library item or any item from any catalog? (this is a real question, not argumentative). I can add, say a fixture to my library, place it on my own custom layer and that layer holds. I can share that library item with others, and they get the layer right along with the item. I can import dwg files and the import dbx gives me a ton of layer control options. So if I have a CAD block that I assign to one of my very own unique layer names (called blockyblocks) and you open one of my plans, copy the block and paste in into one of your plans, then you get the silly layer name as well. I can't see a logical reason why a CAD block couldn't be controlled similar to other library items. Again to be clear, I only want to be able to place a CAD block on an assigned layer, and have the CAD block remain assigned to that layer once added to the library, just like almost every other item that goes into the library. A little trial, make a fixture of any type, put it on any new weird layer you want. Open a plan without that layer (because its unique to the plan you just made it in), place the new item and now you have that layer, that you never had before.

The whole time! However, I always use a backsplash height of 18" (20" if there's light rail) so I have to resize those windows all the time anyways. I usually use a 40" high window set at 83" to the top. But it is satisfying to learn / realize a gem like that in the program!

I just got my first one of these this week! They also had referred to a local building site for the home which made it almost sound normal. I replied, and while I was waiting for their response, I mentioned to my family at dinner that I thought the inquiry was a scam. Sure enough. It made for a kinda fun conversation explaining that to my kids! Lots of questions!

Can you post the plan used for the pics in your first post? I can adjust the cameras / lightning the best I know how, send the plan back to you and then you can compare.

I'd suggest 1 of 2 quick options: edit the existing material: 3D / materials / plan materials / select your drywall material / edit / materials list / materials list calculation / width: 144" replace the existing material: 3D / materials / plan materials / select your drywall material / replace / choose the drywall material that Eric pointed out.