robdyck

Seems like a molding would be the fastest.

That's right Steve. To avoid the Room that DOES get created there, I'll take a short wall segment, usually in the mechanical room, and give it No Room Definition. I just don't like how the furred walls behave in a few other ways, mostly all the short invisible walls that Chief dimensions to the center. And there are some things I DO like about how they behave. A furred wall allows a basement window to be called out in the correct room, for example. So when I say I never use them, I should clarify that I almost never use them, and its because the benefits of one method trump the benefits of another method for my typical finished plan set. If I need the benefits of using the furred wall in a plan set, then of course, they make the cut.

I would NOT edit footings for concentrated loads in the manner described above. I'd use a separate object (there's a few that work nicely) because: its faster...much faster I'd be reporting all those atypical footings in a schedule the reinforcing (which should vary dependent on the loads) can also be reported in the aforementioned schedule I don't want Chief telling me I can or can't display them. More control...yes please!

Feel free to send me a PM. Whether I'm qualified could be a matter of opinion but I've got 20 years of experience as a custom residential framing contractor and I've been drawing plans with Chief for 22 years...and yet I remain the youngest member on this forum!

Practice...click on auto exterior dimensions. Then start adjusting everything until there are no fractional wall lengths.

Before you get to far into your plan, you should review the DEFAULT SETTINGS. When the default ceiling is different than every room in you plan, that's a bit of a red flag that you could be going about it wrong. It'd also be a good idea to review all your ceiling elevations...is 121 1/2" what you actually want? A few thoughts about the roof...all the roof pitch is the same and all roofs except the Porch Roof are at the same elevation...ensure these all have the same baseline elevation (relative to the ceiling height). This assumes the baselines are in the correct location of course and it appears as though yours are! Then ensure the raised porch ceiling and roof is a reasonable dimension higher than the main roofs....13" is not a reasonable difference. I'd suggest using 12" or 16" or 18".

Yes, I understand Scott. It was a joke, not a jab, but I realize that isn't always relayed through this medium...I assure you I meant no offense! Time spent on this forum will reveal that I'm rarely serious. I would suggest watching even more of the training videos...no doubt you already have spent a lot of time on that. I'd also suggest concentrating on the development of the rooms before working on the roof. Ensure you have the correct room types with the correct structures (floors, ceilings) and finishes. Then, its much simpler to deal with roofs, either manual or automatic. Just like actual building, its much easier to put a roof on when the walls aren't moving! May I also suggest reviewing the topic below...this simple starting suggestion will make life much easier.

And you're saying that maybe a set of plans should just be purchased?!?

Yes, but I don't use furred walls for those. I have a separate wall type for the insulation wall and I draw it inside the foundation, then butt it up against the fdn wall. I never ever use a furred wall. It does not do goofy things with the area calculator, it just doesn't do what you'd like with the area calculator. Read up on how the area is calculated and you'll see it is behaving as it should.

select a roof plane edge, press '2', select adjacent roof plane edge to join. Voila!

The ONLY time I make a copy of the file is when I'm sure the customer is asking for a change that probably won't make the final cut. I'll send that to layout separately so I can (more than likely) delete the unused layout boxes if/when the change is axed. If it remains...then I relink the original layout boxes OR I'll rename the NEW file to the original file name, and change the original file name.

Yes. Learn it, you'll be glad you did.

Yup. I adjusted that material after, and several others and still couldn't get everything copacetic. This was the best I could do in the time I had available.

Is this closer to what you have in mind?

If you post your plan, I will see if I can offer any other suggestions.

This can be caused by the general color tone of the backdrop, the sunlight, and other lights. You may not want to change your backdrop so a few options to correct this would be: reduce the sunlight intensity (try 1500) change the sunlight color (try medium gray...experiment) PBR technique options...slightly adjust hue consider adding interior lights use a light set specifically for that camera

I'll also add that I rarely add sketchup furniture or lighting models to my Library, simply because I don't want those objects slowing Chief down on every plan. Rather, I store the sketchup files in organized folders, and I use a plan file to store models for which I've altered the materials that I want saved.

I do a fair bit of modelling showing interiors as well so I understand the issue. Obviously you can take Michael's advice and work on those models to reduce the face count. But let's say that sort of thing doesn't interest you. A couple other options: Buy a ridiculously fast machine...looks like you've pretty much got that! avoid the really, really nice 40 MB chair with the throw and pillows and replace it with a chair that doesn't exceed, say, 10 MB (and so on for other furniture). And to reduce the Chief plan file size, you can purge your materials and CAD blocks. I just did that with a plan and it reduced a 228 MB file down to 54 MB.

@Alaskan_Son Great Explanation!

That's never been an issue, I think they just improvise.

I always specify the installation methods and fasteners for shadows to avoid that problem.

Open the distributed polyline, then edit the current object and set its elevation reference to be absolute. It would be simpler to just have your mulch as a terrain feature and leave all the plants following the terrain...

Another thing to remember when using a CAD detail (or any drawing for that matter) is that you can and should adjust your page size to match the drawing scale you'll be using. This will be helpful for a few things: seeing how much space the detail will take up on the printed sheet planning the location of the detail on the printed sheet seeing the Print Preview accurately in your detail window the detail will then be sent to layout at the correct scale line weights will not need to be different across layer sets allowing you to Modify All Layer Sets when its necessary or desirable to do so Example of a detail with the default 1/4" scale page setting After adjusting the page size It might not be that obvious from the screen captures, but the 2nd image prints much better and all the text, dimension arrows, line weights end up exactly the same as the 1/4" scale section views...unless you choose different settings of course.

Open the room dbx, floor finish, check default.