robdyck

For an exterior rendered image, If I'm not mistaken that tool essentialy functions the same as: using the zoom tool which can be used for smaller details, or for exterior views, the camera can be positioned much further away and then 'cropped' using the Zoom tool for exterior views, positioning the camera much further away from the house and then reducing the camera view angle (NOT using the Zoom tool).

@para-CADThanks. That example was not an actual drawing yet so it's too clean! I don't draw those the same for everyone. I only provide the schedule for those who want it, and other wise I generally provide critical dimensions. I've only had a few carpenters who ask for or appreciate all those dimensions and then I'll provide whatever they feel will help them.

@JKEdmo Try this cad block. Explode and edit and also take a look at how it's made and see if it works for you. The arch polylines have 30 segments and I reversed the start / end of the middle radial.archlite.calibz

This. Glad you got it figured out!

Jim, try pulling the bottom of the radial lines back about 1/4" from the lower arch.

Yes. Search the library and use of many materials.

Hi Ange, you could try copying that shadow board and set it to 1/16" thickness, Eaves Only, set it to an invisible material.

Makes sense...for people with no hands. Shouldn't the diverter be much lower on the wall so they don't have to lift their foot so high to run it on? Not everyone does yoga! Just when you think you've seen it all! Don't forget to lower the shower door handle by about 30".

My go-to method is a larger scale view using a framing schedule. The framing schedule only picks up items in that view and a larger scale view means the labels will be small enough that they don't obstruct the view. I use 1/2" scale for wall details with a text size of 2". This allows me to use the least amount of dimension lines as are appropriate for the wall. In the wall detail view, select the faming schedule tool and drop it into view. Then, adjust the columns to suit your needs. Keep in mind that providing full component dimensions is only practical information for: ordering material framers who understand and can achieve perfection...this means the rest of your plan has to be accurate...no 4" or 6" walls or incorrect dimensions for tub walls, stairwells and so on.

Steve definitely understood what you were after better than I did, whoops! I combined his methods and addressed this new question. Your adjusted plan file is attached and I'll add a brief description here. The walls in the Attic were not Attic Walls, so they weren't behaving quite right. Anyhow, inspect the adjustments and hopefully it gets the framing a bit closer to what you have in mind. PLAN 1 3-4-2025 square.7z

Hi Susan. Step 1 is to make the ceiling planes meet correctly. Currently, you have the sloped planes meeting at a peak. Instead, pull the tops down and join the upper edge of the sloped ceilings to the flat ceiling. That will mostly correct the framing, at least as far as auto-framing can take it.

Simple! Turn on the Walls, Invisible layer

Hi Levina, to show exposed trusses you can use a roof truss or model it manually using molding polylines, 3d solids, etc. To use a roof truss, start by drawing a roof truss in the desired direction anywhere in plan view. Turn off 'Use Special Snapping. Move the truss close to the desired location. Then create a section view and accurately edit the truss polyline and Member Sizing and select 'Force Truss Rebuild'. Depending on your desired truss configuration, you may need to edit the framing members of the truss in the Truss Detail. Roof trusses and molding lines will create proper woodgrain orientation automatically assuming the texture image has the woodgrain running vertically. You can also use general framing members for horizontal components and a post for vertical components. These 2 framing components are stable and will not 'jump' or rebuild to undesired shapes / positions. Trusses and 3d moldings can behave oddly if you are not very familiar with their idiosyncrasies and how to overcome those to create stability. 3d solids are very stable but don't map wood material correctly. When I want quick stability and flexibility I will use a general framing member for horizontals, a post for vertical, and a molding line for diagonal webs. Assign them to a layer of your choosing and paint them all with the same material for predictable results.

You should probably post the plan file so you can get specific suggestions.

Usually you will need to use foundation wall on the foundation level to create a room for the stairs. If the terrain is on Floor 1, this will NOT create a hole in the terrain. You can either create the hole manually using a polyline or terrain feature (recommended) OR create a room of invisible walls on Floor 1 (I do not recommend this). The stairs can be drawn on the foundation level, however you will need to set the heights manually.

This might be a bit more helpful for those interested in what Joe posted. https://www.sandiegocounty.gov/pds/docs/pds081.pdf

Hi Shane, 2 suggestions for you: Delete the ceiling structure for the porch, or reduce the structure depth to 3.5" For the side wall of the Porch, create a wall type that is a single layer and specify the main layer as an air gap.

Also, experiment with printing @ 144 DPI. For me, this provides acceptable print quality and saves lots of MB over time!