robdyck

Where you have a ceiling beam, try replacing that using a soffit (delete the default moldings). A soffit should automatically add the room moldings, however where you have separate moldings per room, you will need to do some manual work, probably by creating a room molding polyline and adjusting the polyline. Because the soffit is directly over a wall, the room moldings don't seem to apply properly.

I concur with Brett. I just get my tools out and put the casing on myself. I just had to something similar because of the bottom of a raked window can't be a zero height...so Chief cases the window with a small vertical piece. I needed a proper miter...

Hey Larry! The door interior trim is following the defaults for a Doorway! Edit the doorway defaults (no lintel, clam casing), then open and close the door dialog and it rebuilds correctly. I think I would send this in to Tech Support. The door casing, door lintel, and window frame all seem like bugs to me.

Door Casing: Screen Recording 2025-01-16 153034.mp4

Window Frame should be automatic...or so I thought. But I believe you'll need to manually adjust the frame spec.

Your furred wall is backwards! Move the drywall to the interior of the framing in the Wall Type Definitions. Then reverse the layers and adjust its position.

Door Panel:

Another tip: Even if you create a cad detail from view (I never do this) it can be helpful to add cad polylines in an elevation or section view with the line length displayed. I place these polylines on a reference layer which I turn off for final views. I prefer doing this because this keeps those polylines in the actual view and I can snap windows to these polylines. And, the dimensions of these windows are always subject to changes throughout the design process, so 'cad detail from view' is not very helpful to me. This allows me to quickly and accurately 'mock up' the shapes and then specify the windows...saving me time away from the window specification dialog.

Center Window: Use a double arch and then set the radius to 10000" (this is the max.). Then it's easy to adjust the height as needed.

https://www.sketchup.com/en/plans-and-pricing/sketchup-free

Its also worth mentioned that a molding or polyline distribution will almost certainly not create perfect spacing of the corbels in the dentil molding. With a polyline distribution path, you can use separate lines on each side of a gable and adjust the starting offset.

You could use a molding assigned to the frieze for the roof planes. If I were doing that, I'd probably assign 2 separate moldings as a frieze: one for the crown and one for the dentil molding. You may be able find a dentil molding that is close enough, although you might just want to make your own. Take a look at the dentil moldings in the library, and that should give you some visual cues. You can convert a 3d object or symbol into a molding.

If your posts are part of a railing wall: To do this, you will need to use a thicker wall to define your porch. The wall thickness should be the same thickness as the piers. This way, the posts will remain centered on this new thicker wall but the slab will extend to the outer edge of this wall. If the posts & piers were place manually or are separate objects: move the wall that defines the porch to align with the outer edge of the pier.

For this model, there currently is no need to increase the 2nd floor ceiling height. And, if there is no flat ceiling, then you need to set the interior walls to balloon through. Without that, the top will stop at the ceiling elevation and an attic wall will generate. Hopefully that makes sense.

2nd Floor: Reset ceiling elevations to the default height. Assign Room types and uncheck flat ceilings. 2nd Floor: Select the wall beside the stairs and uncheck 'Attic Wall'. Set Structure>Ceiling Platform to Balloon through... 2nd Floor: Select the wall at the top of the stairs and set Structure>Ceiling Platform to Balloon through...

Attic walls can be frustrating. For example, the wall beside the stairs on Floor 1 will generate an attic wall that is definitely not what you want. Of course that raises the question about why the stairs are partially but not completely enclosed by walls. Perhaps railing on the right of the stairs would make more sense. Is this what you had in mind?

Also, set the ceiling elevation in the hallway back to the default height. Because it doesn't have a flat ceiling, there's no need to alter the ceiling height. Split that gable wall at the lower roof peak and change the wall type for the portion at the top of your screen to be an interior wall type. Then, set the gable wall to balloon through the ceiling above.

That wall is being cut by a roof plane on the 2nd floor. Pull that small section back to butt against the exterior wall and your wall should then build correctly.

I'm not sure why you'd draw a stem wall if the building is supported by posts / beams, but your default foundation walls is a masonry wall. You can change the foundation wall defaults before drawing any foundation walls, or you can change the wall type after they've been created. Go to Default Settings>Foundation Defaults>Edit Default Foundation Wall or double click the foundation wall tool.

Hi Neil. These items have move because you've used 3d solids which have their elevation set 'From Finished Floor'. When place outside the building, the 'Finished Floor' becomes the Terrain. It is a bit confusing but to prevent them from moving, select them all and change the Elevation Reference to 'Absolute'. Then adjust the terrain elevation and they will stay in place.

You could turn your walls into pony walls using the same wall type top & bottom, with the wall split elevation set to match the ceiling elevation. Maybe not ideal but it seems to work for me.

3d solids seem flexible but they aren't always the best tool. If the rack is being built out of lumber and the pieces are rectangular, you might want to try using general framing members and other framing members. The material will automatically run the right way and you won't have the material merging issue. You can also use a framing post for vertical pieces and you'll have the cross box in plan view which can be helpful when doing the layout. Also, framing members can be selected when cut in section view whereas 3d solids cannot. Plus, you can generate a schedule / cut list if using framing members.

Nice work! Just wanted to mention that if you intend to use your 'Neal Overhang' for Canadian codes, you'll need to adjust the detail to allow for 2.5" (63mm) of clearance between top-of-insulation and underside-of-sheathing for insulated and vented roof assemblies.

You're welcome! Glad I could help.

The ROOM has a wall covering applied:) Open the room specification dialog and delete the wallcovering from the room. Double click on the room in plan view or in camera view, double click the floor or baseboard to open the Room Specification dialog.