tommy1

We have a free online meeting Monday, Jan. 5, 2015 from 6:00pm to 8:00pm (Central Time). If you would like to attend, then please send me an email using my email address shown in my signature. Feel free to call me if you need more information or questions. This is an open meeting. Sincerely,

If you try it, you'll find out real fast. To answer your question, do the last.

Draw a marquee around it to block it. then you can save it to the library.

Diane, send me an email from my address below in my signature if you like and I will give you 3 hours of free training (online) to help you with any questions you may have. I'm mainly free on the weekends but sometimes during the week too.

Okay. I was doing it a different way which automatically unchecked "outlet" and "110 volts".

I have mine to where it hangs on the wall. To really make it work from the library, you have to do it a different way.

Michael, if you're wanting to save it to your library to reuse again, this way as mentioned will not work. Try it. It never has worked this way for electrical. Here is a new symbol that will work. I think I have it set right. If not, it's probably close enough. Duplex 16 inches.calibz

I have postponed it until next Monday the 8th.

We have a free online meeting Monday, Dec. 1, 2014 from 6:00pm to 8:00pm (Central Time). If you would like to attend, then please send me an email using my email address shown in my signature. Feel free to call me if you need more information or questions. This is an open meeting. Sincerely,

Maybe so Scott, but we both said the same thing.

No I'm not. That's ridiculous. I was just saying that I have already mentioned that in other words trying to explain about the old invisible wall and the new room divider.

I thought I already said this (in other words).

In all previous versions (prior to X6), all invisible walls are actually a wall type of Interior 4 made invisible by default. So, if you want an invisible wall like the previous versions, place an interior 4 wall and make it invisible. In X6, they have the room divider instead of an "invisible wall" type already made. If you use the room divider, it has no thickness, but if you change the structure one side of the room that has a room divider, then that room divider gets the same definition on the old invisible wall which is actually an interior 4 wall invisible. BTW, for doing porches, I prefer to use a railing wall (wall type).

How about displaying the auto dormer or roof plane to the attic level in plan view or floor above? If you do this, you might have to turn off the roof hole in plan view.

I have been waiting for that comment. This is why I do all my cable railing manually as well as my posts(newels). Yes it's a little time consuming to do it manually but it's the only way I can get it to do the way I want (or at least make it fairly close).

We always print in greyscale but our pdfs are always in color. It works great doing it this way. If it doesn't do good for you then maybe it's a printer (plotter) setting because ours look good.

If you use point to point dimensions and you don't want to see the point markers, select the point marker, open it and change the diameter to 1/16" or something.

Todd, as you're finding, stairs I believe is the weakest part of the program. Someone probably warned you about stairs early on. It's not quite so bad once you figure it out but yes, stairs do jump often when you open them especially when you have multiple stairs and with walls under the stairs. It's most frustrating (putting it mildly). Even the best of Chief users have problems with certain stair designs. We have been asking for better stair control for years but no luck yet. Maybe Alan can give you a hand. I was just working on a plan that had 3 flights of stairs on top of each other with different floor heights on each floor. It was a big time major PIA trying to get it to work. Once I got it, you don't want to select anything for any reason for fear that a section will jump or screw up walls.

I would draw it from an elevation using a polyline solid and shape it how you want. Set depth.

David is correct but you will also have to make a copy of the brick texture you're using for the wall (rename it if you want), change the pattern to strip and rotate the texture OR use a soldier texture of that brick and assign it to the molding.

That setting is in the window DBX.

Have you tried doing a search for this topic?

The only thing I can think of is to select a roof plan> transform/replicate it and move it so that you can see which baseline is moving. If it's one you want to delete, delete it, if not hit the undo and select the roof plane again and tab to get the next one. Kind of a process of elimination.

Have you thought about using a flitch beam instead? It may do fine and easier to use. Just a thought.

Have you thought of going to Chief's website and looking for sample plans under sample galleries?