tommy1

Yes that works. You do need to save it to your user library after making adjustments as noted, then sent that back to the plan (from the user library) to make it work easily for rotating with the rotate handle.

I had a feeling this was coming but was hoping you would try it then you would probably find out why. Wall lights, switches, and outlets are made to sit on the wall. To make them go on the side of a cabinet, column, slab or anything else other than a wall, then yes you can place the item in the plan on a wall> open it and make it sit on the floor. Now you can move it where you want, but to make it sit on the side of the cabinet, you need to rotate it. Yes you can do it by opening it and rotate it on its axis in the dbx. but I think my way is better. When you place it directly from the library in the plan, open it and make it sit on the floor, yes you can move it but you can't rotate it using the "rotate handle". If you however copy the item from Chief's library to your user library and in your user library, open the symbol and make it sit on the floor BEFORE you place it in the plan, you can then move it anywhere in the plan and use the "rotate handle" to rotate it. I think this is easier than rotating it on it's axis in the dbx.. Maybe not for some people though. I then move the item to the cabinet in plan view to where it looks right in plan view. I then take an elevation, select the item in the elevation, open it and set its origin to where it looks right in 3D. Now you can show it properly in 2d and 3d. I discussed this a long time ago with Scott on the forum.

Don't block it and save it. If you make a symbol of it, it should work as you want.

When doing as Dennis suggested, you'll have to change the origin to make it look right in plan and 3D. I do this all the time. BTW, I feel it's better to copy the fixture from Chief's library and place it in your user library before putting it into the plan. (there is a reason why I do this)

The engineer sent me a .dwg file that opened great. Problem solved.

I'm having the reverse problem. I'm getting this error from an engineer who wants me to use his cad details. Any suggestions on what to tell him? Thanks,

Thanks to everybody who posted on this thread. I've always had a hard time trying to find a good setting for under cabinet pucks. This thread was perfect, to the point and right on. The settings mentioned are perfect. Knowledge is a wonderful thing.

You're welcome. Hope you can use it. I got this library many years ago...I think from a woman named Angela. Some of you long time users might remember her and all her great textures she provided.

Here is an X7 library. If this works, then when you assign the texture to the cabinet item, you need to make the texture "stretch to fit". X7 Glazed door library.zip

If it's not too big, I'll post a zip file with the images. Actually, I'll try posting a library first and see if that works.

Here's what a couple of textures look like on cabinets.

Don't know if this is what you're looking for but I have a glazed door library for applying to doors. Email me (email below) if you're interested.

By looking at your image, it looks like you can save it to your user library. If so, then you can do as Joe says. After selecting the object, look at the edit toolbar at the bottom of your screen, it looks like you have the option to save it to your library.

I just started using X8 today and was having a hard time getting a manual slab to place at the right top height. I discovered that if I set the top height using the absolute value, it did fine. It was not set at that by default. You didn't have to do this in previous versions.

I've reported it but haven't heard anything back.

It looks fine in the door dbx.

Okay, I'll report it. Thank you,

Really? They can just put this garage door in a plan with 4 walls. Should take about 1 minute or less.

It seems to me that the PO5 garage door doesn't display correctly in elevations. Standard renders look good but if you change that standard render to a vector view, then it looks incorrect too. Is anyone else seeing this problem?

I'm just now using X8 on a simple plan so this is kinda exciting for me. Concerning the size of electrical symbols in a legend, I make my own legends and always make the symbols a lot larger than what you see in the plan. Some symbols in the plan you can't hardly see at 1/4" scale line the smoke detectors. I probably make my symbols in the legend around twice the size of what you see in the plan. Hoping X8 will save me time here. Will be good to hear if you can change the size though.

I learned the hard way many years ago that speed is not necessarily a good thing for doing certain things. That's how mistakes are done and can be costly. A timely manner however is something else. For me, how long it takes varies greatly on what we're doing but I NEVER try to do it too fast just to get out of the house. I spend the time I need to do it accurately. That's just me.

Doing the as-built is one on my main jobs for Katy. I've heard here that many people can do an as-built in a few hours. That's generally not the case for me depending on the remodel. Katy and me meet on the job with the client. Since Katy does the remodel, she spends her time going over what the client wants and I spend my time doing the measurements either of the area to be remodeled or the whole house. I'm generally there much longer than Katy in some cases. Since walls can be out of square, not exactly plumb, studs can be off or not exactly in line with each other, floor off from being level, this can all make a difference in your measurements. This is why when I measure a room in one direction, I measure one end of the room and the other end to check that length. When using a laser, if walls are off as I mentioned, the laser reading from one end of a wall to the other end can vary. If there is a huge difference in the measurements, I let Katy and the client know. I try to keep all my room dimensions all over the house to be with-in an inch or less. You have to check wall thickness for walls to be more accurate and some walls is pretty impossible but you can generally assume that walls behind toilets and some areas may be a little thicker for plumbing. Older houses here in the historic district are much more difficult because a lot of the times you have no idea how people framed things. We see some pretty crazy wall framing and sometimes there were additions done or new walls added to these old homes which have different framing. I also do measure the windows (width and height, floor to top) and their placement on the walls so we know where they are located on the walls. Same for doors. Our as-built plan are very accurate which is why our builders like our work. On a one story, depending on the size, amount of walls and difficulty of the house, I will spend at least 6 hrs. measuring and making notes. Longer for two story or large houses. We generally draw the perimeter of the house based off of the survey, print it and use that for drawing the existing (in pencil). When I go to put it in Chief, if I run into areas where my dimensions don't add up, then I will need to go back and verify and try to find out why. Our clients are generally very grateful that we take the time to get it right. I feel that the as-built is one of the most important part of the remodel, for if you don't have that right or very close, then the remodel will be off as well which could lead to problems for the builder and engineer. If you hire out someone to do you as-built, be sure you use someone who really tries to make it right. Katy never worries about my as-built plan. BTW, we will never do a remodel unless Katy has me do the as-built. We also show all existing electrical and a/c vents in the areas to be remodeled. I place them as close as possible and take pictures for referencing.

Thanks Michael, that works.

BTW, I see that you have a different material for the center. I reworked my symbol so this can be done if interested. I generally try to save the file I make my symbols with so that I can easily edit it later if needed.

Rob, I get that error message when ever I open X8 to look at it then close it and try to open X7 which I'm mainly using right now. When I open X7, I get that message and it won't let me open so I go to the task manager and close X7 then Right click on X7 icon and run as administrator. Once you open X8 and close it, it's faster to just right click on X7 and open as administrator so you don't get that error. I didn't have this problem until I downloaded X8. BTW, I do have X7 set up to run as administrator.