GeneDavis

Select the window after creating the custom muntin array. Go to Lites. Change muntin width to something else. Worked for me. As for your connection issue, I've no clue. Try dividing the arc into three segments, then making each side polyline a side arc and a vertical. The center segment arc is all by itself. Then block the three p'lines and see if the verts join to the arcs OK.

Click, hold and drag, pause, don't release hold, press TAB, you can how release the click, enter your length in the d'box, click OK.

Way more info needed. A 16x60 footprint sounds akin to a mobile home, or a houseboat. Sounds like the shore owners association doesn't want to see that look paralleling the shore line.

Almost anything is possible with solids. Try it.

This one uses "beer can" nodules, not balls as many do. The pressformed squeeze on the pipe ends coming unto the nodule join is gonna jack up the poly count to ridiculous levels. i watched a video of a ball-connected frame module being modeled in Revit. Looked like how I'd do it in Sketchup. Note in the photo how the bottom chord panels of the frame are arrays of identical rhombus patterns and how the edge angle is that of the long skew wall's, and the module at the front wall edge is a split of the central one.

Well, hatch me! Thanks, @Alaskan_Son for introducing me to Chief wall hatching. I can see what it does, but as for its usefulness, I am undecided.

Your use of the word "hatch" is really confusing. I showed you gray solid fill options, done at the wall definition level and display modified by use of the layer called "walls, main layer only." Chief users are used to the term "hatch" as a style of fill that is an array of parallel lines, where the control is for line weight, angle, and spacing. There is also the "grid" style of fill, a variation of "hatch" in which the lines go both ways. Again, there are inputs for line weight, angle, spacing, color. Solid fill is not hatch. You seem to want a solid color fill, but with what you are calling "outlines." That is what I showed in my example above. Chief's new poche fill (po SHAY) is a display option controlled at the plan view level (for plan views) and fills the displayed walls with a solid color, filling also the interior and exterior layers, and turning off "outline" layers. Users can show main layers only with the same level on-off tool one uses regularly. The intro by Chief of poche fill for walls in plan views gives users a quick tool for displaying walls the way most are shown in light commercial work. Users choose black not gray for this look. You want something unique, which is poche but with control of both wall fill color and line display and color. You should write a suggestion and show clear examples and post the suggestion in the "Suggestions" sub forum here.

What tools and techniques would be used to model it in Revit? In Autocad? Do those apps have parametric tools for modeling the space-truss roof?

What do you mean by "hatching?" This is just solid fill. One with interior and exterior layers one, the other main layers only.

Hey @MarkMc I only dip my toes into Chief cabinets and are way short of being in the weeds as deep as you. What is this "Side Panel CRP 10" or whatever inset panel you use to get a beaded panel? And how do you build the tall door with two intermediate rails as the OP needs if the door is from, say, the Wellborne line, the one I show in the pics below?

It's not a good practice, and a waste of time actually, to do that with rod shelving in a closet corner. The clothes crash, and the hangers crash. I stop one of the runs 12 to 15 inches away from the face of the other. if custom building, it's OK to run the shelves as mitered into the corner, but not the rods.

Did you try a roof exactly covering the outer exterior layer, and with a 1/16" thick fascia?

Hi @SNestor, how can your door be smart enough to have its mid-rails align to the doors adjacent? The cabinetmaker paid attention to that detail of horizontal alignment.

Chief gives us SAME ROOF HEIGHT and SAME EAVE HEIGHT as options we can check for autobuild. Which do you want?

Make a 3 panel door symbol using solids. Takes a minute or two. Begin with CAD detail from view, the elevation view of the cabinet, so you can match lines for getting the rail placements where needed. I might add a width stretch plane, but since the door height and rail placement is specific to the cabinet cluster, I would not bother with horizontal planes.

You can set that in General Framing Defaults for floor framing. There is presently no way to set rims for decks differently (width and material type) from floor framing, so unless you want to take the time to edit all deck rims in your final config to 1-1/2" P.T. lumber, you have to frame in this sequence, if floors (not decks) get engineered lumber rims. Set the floor frame rims to be 1-1/2" and P.T. lumber in the defaults, build deck framing, but do not build floor framing until after all decks are settled for size, elevation, etc. Now with decks framed, lock their framing by turning off autoframe for decks, locking their layers, and only then change the framing defaults back to however wanted for floor framing. You can now build floor framing.

No. Look at the slab floor. Room is "porch."

Wrong forum. HD Pro users have their own.

Hi @MarkMc How you doing? Sounds as if you, and maybe Rene, are way too deep into the weeds of Chief cabinets and labels for the original poster to get where they need. I am pretty sure the OP here, @BRDBRemodeling, is not a cabinet dealer. Their website shows them as a remodeling contractor, and their gallery pages for kitchens shows cabinetry that looks pretty industry standard. Nothing too custom. In the tiny market I am in, there are at most a half dozen places one can go where dealers have something to show, and every single one of those dealers save one will quote you your cabinet order in whatever brand you choose, at no charge, and work with you to see that the order matches your needs, including field-measuring, so that the job is done correctly. The one with the largest area for display has a designer that charges for your initial visit, and I know for a fact that she will quote based on drawings as I showed in the example above. I've seen the plans by the local architects and drafters and designers, showing kitchens and baths, and none are showing anything close to the detail I showed in my example. Somehow, all these jobs get bought and built, and somewhere in the chain between the builder and the cabinet factory, there is a person who interprets the info supplied and gets it into an order format the maker can build. That's the dealer's job. It would be nice if the OP would step in here and offer a little more info. The way the questions were phrased, it sounds as if the business has downloaded a free trial of Chief and wants to know how to get cabinet plans to paper for going to a dealer for quote and supply. The free trial version, if I recall correctly, does not include layout. Two pics are attached here. One is a render of the kitchen done from the plans and schedule info I showed above. There are similar arrangements shown at the OP's website. The other pic is from the website of the local dealer that charges you for the meeting (no matter what your plans show or how cabs are scheduled or called out), showing their brands.

@BRDBRemodelingplease describe why your con docs with kitchen plan views, annotated wall elevations, and cabinet schedules are insufficient for a cabinet dealer salesperson to quote and supply a package to the build site. Aren't you doing this? These are two pages from a set of plans for a kitchen remodel. Chief is not 2020 and never will be. There are over 40 training videos at the Chief site. Have you watched any? You've no signature line telling us what software you are using. Please write up your details so we can help you better.

I did this with solids, and no cushions.

Or no boards that are part of the fence, and make the panels with moldings.

Correction to me. And sorry for the bandwidth. Roof blocking works as lookouts, and you can multi-copy one down a slope in section view.

And lookouts are one framing type you cannot manually draw. Take a look. I tried drawing the dormer roof with a wider overhang one side, really wide, then reframed, and still no lookouts.

Type in a new number for "floor." May something like -30 inches, which equates to four steps down each 7.5".