GeneDavis

I am sorry I am so dense but I have no idea what you did or are saying. All I want to do is extend faceframe stiles to the floor. There are no settings I see that accomplish this, and no instructional videos (I learn from videos or from someone giving good step by step instructions) on the Chief site or on YouTube to show how to do this.

What is needed is not solved with pilasters. Go back and see the cabinet I show in 3D in my opening post, above. Look closely at the right end base cabinet in the group shown in the photo, attached. The inset-door faceframe has its stiles extended to go to the floor, and there may or may not be a block behind as I imagined in my Sketchup workup, to give the flush integral stile pilaster (my name for this) a columnar appearance at the foot.

Mark, you are giving us a stream of consciousness that only the SuperChiefCabPros can follow. Thanks for the innovative solution, but some how-to is needed. If you've the time, would you please write the steps, 1, 2, 3 etc. to accomplish what you did? To me it looks as if you made some kind of three sided cabinet, 4" tall, using just doors, doors you made with solids converted to door symbols. Flesh that out a little so us dummies can do it too. And where does the molding come into play? The cabs above must be stacked and centered and positioned 4" off floor so as to look like what you showed. Correct? You say default separation as 0" but what is that doing? Why can't just any cabinet sit atop the base? Jon's first pic shown upthread shows a pair of cabinets that have overlay fronts, not inset. What does separation at zero do for this?

There is a topic here with the thread title Shaped Hole Symbol started by a new member @Jon-Mullwoods, and this question relates not to that exactly, but to how best to do what I am calling pilaster feet in a faceframed base cabinet. I snipped a pic from a page in Jon's biz Mullwoods website to show what I am referring to. See all the cabs that have their faceframe stiles extending to the floor? I guess the designer wants a bespoke look, sort of like each cab is built like a piece of furniture with legs. Here is the pic. I think what is going on here to get that legged furniture look (cabinet makers call that a "furniture toe") is that every other cab in a run is given the treatment. But that is just details. This question is about how it might be done in Chief to a single base cabinet. See the pic here in which I used solids in Sketchup to depict a faceframed base with the desired feature. Note the faceframe with 1.5" stiles has them extended to the floor, and what I am calling leg boost blocks (shown in red) make the stiles look more like 1.5" legs and fill the space between the stiles and the setback toekick. Maybe Jon can enter the thread here and tell us how it is done in the shop and field so we can better understand this detail Is there a way in Chief cabinets to do this? Legs plus boosts plus recessed toekick but no sidecut for toe? I know I can do anything I want with solids, but was wondering if you Chief cabs gurus, the guys that can make a dinner service using cabinets, have a way.

That's got more everywhere than my older Lenovo GP76 Leopard gamer, which runs Chief well when rendering. Mine has the 17" screen though, which for my tired old eyes, is essential.

Hi @Jon-Mullwoods. I did a quick tryout to see how tedious this might be. File attached so you can see how things work. I drew a base cap molding (there are none in the Chief catalog!) 3/4 h x 11/16 w. The base mold under the cap is 3/4 x 3 1/4 so that the height of the two when stacked equals the 4" toe height. The cabs are frameless with a 1/8" reveal at bottom so the doors or drawers clear the top of the base molding stack. At ends, I did the moldings as a stack with a small return so the cap miters as it should. In front, I did a CAD detail from view to get my front-piece valance sized right, just drawing one end and out to a tiny bit past middle. When I doodled the "leg" to look sort of OK, I copied and pasted the CAD polyline in place in the model in elevation view, then made it a solid at 3/4 thick, and mirrored it. You can see the lines of joints in the vector view here, but there are no lines when done in standard view or PBR or CPU raytrace. For your valances with center stretches with no curve drop or arch rise, you can make and save CAD blocks to serve you as needed for the fronts. For those with the curve challenges, I'm sure you'll find a way to deal with them after getting up to speed with Chief CAD and curves and tangency. Vanity with valance front base.plan

With Chief CAD you are able to make 3D solids for the baseboard arrays you need for these various configs. If you use the same ogee molding for the caps, make the molding easy to find in your library for doing the caps as molding polylines. That way the caps miter nicely at the front corners. Try making a symbol for each of the valances with simple horizontal straight upper centers, and place stretch planes so you can size as required when placing. The valances with the curved copes along the heads are going to be a challenge if you need one for each config of cabs above. You may need to get a good lesson in CAD from a trainer at HQ or someone from the forum in creating smooth tangent arcs. I'm a Sketchup user and could knock any of these out in minutes and then import them into Chief as symbols, but I'm a dummy in Chief CAD when it comes to tangent arcs like needed for these valances. You might want to think about how much a perfectly photorealistic render of a cabinet with one of the cope-curve valances means to customers when selecting. If they are selecting now from that 2D page you showed, consider doing the renders with no cutout and including the 2D page for cutout selection. A good set of photos of vanities with the curve-cut valances plus Chief 3D showing plain, might be all you need.

How important to your typical buyer are the opening widths? Actually, how important are the vertical dimensions to the typical buyer? Or even any dimensions. Installers need dimensions and I find Chief can meet all my dimensioning needs to produce construction docs.

Those are toekick valances, in cab-speak What's "a lot?" If you a big cabinet shop this could be a daily thing. Feet won't do because you're only doing the openings at the fronts, and also because you are doing this as a baseboard detail applied to a cab with a recessed toe at front. Furthermore, the beaded base you show complicates this even more. it's a great detail and if it important you be able to 3D render it, I think you are going to have to make some symbols.

Select the two end walls, at right and left side of building. In ROOF tab of wall dialog, change the pitch to something higher. If it is for example, 3:12, jack it up to 6:12. Autoroof should then generate the roof with a ridge parallel to the front and rear walls. Now play with all these pitches until you get what you want.

Nice workaround, @WoodGrain. I gave your post with the vid a like, and you might want to mark it as the SOLUTION.

I have Scale Images checked and Use Plan View Scale is unchecked. Default has both checked. It is Scale Images that allows the label image to change scale as the column width is shrunk or expanded.

Well, you could draw that little roof, see what happens, right?

Note label size set manually to 5 inches, note text style is what I use for K&B which is 1/2" = 1' I didn't do anything to the note schedule except try to control the circle size by manually shrinking the column width.

What exactly are we talking about here? My interpretation of @Leadcarpo's q is how to separately control display of note callouts in elevation views, from their size in the note schedule. I did a test, cutting an elevation view, placing a note, generating a note schedule, setting control manual in the note's d'box, setting text size to that for 1"=1', setting callout size at 24 inches, and look at what is generating. I can do the box uncheck DB advises, and can change the size of the callout circle in the schedule, but without knowing what the OP wants to do, I cannot advise a solution.

You need more depth for the floor structure, which adds cost in not just floor structure, but labor to build whatever fill and corner work is needed, plus the cost of extra stairs height, more exterior wall sheathing and finish. Explain this to the client and produce good 3D renders of it done with both six and twelve inch tray height, both dropped and not. Further, more stair height means more stair area in the floor plan and reduction of living space.

Welcome to the forum @draftlab! It is essential we know what Chief software you are running (X15, X12, . . . ) and also what hardware you run it on. This, so we can best help you when you have questions such as in this post. Up at top right, click on your name, then go to Settings and scroll down to Signature, and enter all your info.

Am I missing a setting somewhere? I have a gable over which is a 10:12 roof, set gable wall for auto returns 42", 6" extension, want to lower pitch to 5 from the 10 but the returns won't select for spec dialog.

Roof returns are done to eliminate the bad architectural practice of having a pork chop end, and unless you give a return its own return (check "hip"), including frieze wrap, as is done by using the molding, you get a pork chop. Best practice is to do the returns at a lower pitch than the roof above. I had a great pork chop at a steak joint called Perry's the other night. But I don't like to see them on roof corners.

You should go to their forum and ask. This one is for Chief Premier users.

You gotta turn it on. Did you? For any new fixture I am doing, I do a one room tiny house, maybe 10 feet square, and place the fixture in the room, then set a camera view, then do all the work of editing the light source for lumens, position, direction, all the settings for beamspread, etc., if it is a spotlight, and settle things with materials for the shade, reflector, bulb, cord, etc.

Your toilets flush backward. Is there a fix for that?

I like to do a circular or elliptical single camera walkaround of the exterior, same speed and at constant height (look for that setting) so the camera does not dip or rise with terrain. Try it at different speeds to see what works best to view the details. Also, I'll do a flyover view of each floor in dollhouse view, only two or max three drone rides, to display the feel of the moves and relationships from space to space. Finally, I do what Alan describes above at floor levels, single dolly moves, very few camera changes, to exhibit the spaces and features in a walkthru feel, then go to the video editor to string things together with fade ins and outs between the shorts.

Did you explode the dormer? Explode it and turn off autobuild, and get busy editing the top main roof to chop out where the dormer lies, and the dormer roof plane overhangs to extend to the porch roof below.

Solid. We have the wrap option for lintels, but what you are showing seems like a jigsaw cut on a flat board, not a return (wrap). It'll take you a couple minutes. Hey, it's billable hours, right?