GeneDavis

What's your software?

@KirillPthe example light you show is LED tape with a shroud, spacing not specified, and should be modeled as point lights with an appropriate extruded shroud.

Where was the idea of the dead-straight no-sag rope light, no housing, sourced? The images show it positioned for general lighting along the two passage and work lanes, but that seems like the wrong approach for such lighting. I see it and use it in recessed ceiling coves, atop wall cabinets, for undercab countertop lighting, and inside cabinets that have glass doors. Have you any photos of rope lighting used in the way you have modeled it?

What software are you using?

This roof has a 3:12 pitch and a triple-step fascia, but as can be seen in the structure settings, the gable and eave subfascia settings are different to be able to achieve fascia line matching.

If the desired starter newel is big enough, do it as a standalone symbol, with the stair rail buried inside

Five replies so far, the words "something" and "maybe" are thrown out. I'm reminded of the old NPR Saturday morning show, "Car Talk," the brothers Click and Clack, some guy calls in and says there's a funny scraping sound under the rear seat of my '65 Camaro. They have fun with it and then start asking questions, trying to pry out the clues from the caller. We aren't on a live call here. Just post the plan and let's end this. At 84 posts, the OP ought to know the drill.

The OP is copying a plan. Not getting inspired by it and deviating per his or her design sense, but copying one. The only diff is that it's mirrored from what was shown. I'd want whatever floor 2 living space is there, to be there ahead of roof generation, as a way to determine with knee wall heights, what would be needed for baseline elevations.

Self-train via videos, please. Or get an hour of 1 on 1. Hey! Before you do that, download and study some of the sample plans and layouts from the Chief wbsite.

Others might differ, but i'd never do a roofscape without first drawing all the floor plans including windows, doors, and stairs.

If you are replicating the plan you show in images, did you spec all your perimeter wall roof directives per the roof plan you in the photo? If not, why not? I'd have started there and auto-roofed the plan. And there is this, from Mick, a Chiefer here, posted on another thread about modeling roofs: Remember that the KnowledgeBase (KB) has many good Short Tutorials ( with downloadable PDFs) and there are also Free Videos etc to help with all the basics. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00441/creating-hip-and-gable-roofs-manually.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5447/roof-basics.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/6110/roof-options-using-the-manual-and-automatic-roof-tools-grandview-build.html

Try making a wall type same layers except no siding, which will be your wall tupe for "lower wall type if split . . ."

Close the Chief plan. Post the .plan file here. A .pdf file can be directly attached to a post, and we don't have to download it to view it.

A tambour door would have the cassette on one side or the other. I'd be inclined to make a symbol with solids to do that, set onto a passthrough window.

I've framed houses and site-built the staircases that went in them. Our technique resulted in the exact 3D look Chief returns when butting Chief stairs to the 1/2 sheetrock wall finish. So place stairs against finish, and not against framing.

Walls are "drawn" using the mouse and Chief configs those walls (see all the types in the dropdown) based on how you have defined the default walls. Out of the box, Chief "builds" the interior walls as three layers, the main layer is 2x4 wood frame, the layers out and in are 1/2" gypsum drywall. Exterior walls out of the box are 2x6 framing in main layer, with 1/2 sheetrock in and out is OSB then siding. You can create any types of walls you want, including exterior with framing and rainscreen layers, and more. I'd advise spending a half day or more watching some of the excellent Chief training videos easily found on YouTube, or best found right at the User Center in the Chief website. Click that chiefarchitect.com link at upper right and you will go there. Maybe even a day and a half. Or a week and a half. There is a lot to learn. If you want to leapfrog all this, consider getting some one on one training either with Chief or one of the power users here like the excellent Rene Rabbitt.

Not sure what you want to do with posts, but for stairs, I like to draw them in a totally open space near where I want to place them, and after making adjustments for rise, run, width, as may be required, then move them using point to point. For ensuring that object like stairs bump and stop at walls (and they stop at the wall finish, in your case against your 1/2" material affixed to framing) be sure to set bumping using EDIT > SNAP SETTINGS > BUMPING/PUSHING to toggle the bump/push stop behavior. Try it OFF, toggle it ON, and see how things work for stairs and other objects. F11 is your shortcut key for this toggle.

It is a good idea when working with any release of Chief, to check out the tutorials available for what you will be doing. This one addresses building with trusses.

Looks like solid concrete stairs, rounded nosings, backbeveled risers. Looking forward to the Chief wizards to show us the way. Could be done in solids. Rene could do it in cabinets.

Construction docs for U.S.-built residential housing has used this format for both interior and exterior hinged doors for generations. It isn't going to change. Label a door as 2668 on a plan and the builder and framer will know what to build as a rough opening. Where are you building that there is a need to identify a door on prints by its rough opening size? Give us the location, and what kind of structure is being built. Wood frame? Concrete block? Solid (formed and poured) concrete? Straw bale? Metal framing?

Demo and rebuild

You edited your walls. Change them back to default wall top height. I'd recommend three risers not two for the climb between floor levels. An 8" rise might be OK for a remodel stairs up to second if space is tight, but in that open-plan area, I'd want the comfort of a 5-3/8 x 12 3-rise arrangement. There seems to be plenty of room.

In X15 with the pull on the door horizontal, but you want it vertical, go to the door/drawer panel in the cabinet spec dialog (you've been there and drew a red arrow). See the EDIT button, to the right of the LIBRARY button? Click it and study the panel. You'll see how you can edit the handle's rotation. Rotate it + or - 90 degrees. Either works since the pull is symmetrical. Click OK and the panel closes. Now in the panel, in the door handle segment, see how you have control of the vertical and horizontal placement of the handle. You can accept the default, you can center it, or you can define your position by an offset distance. Full control. Play with it until you understand it, and position the pull where you think it best goes. It is interesting how Chief changed this operation from X14 when doing X15. For some unknown reason, they had pulls shaped other than round rotating properly when painted to doors. Now they don't perform that rotation step but let you rotate manually, and rotate to any angle you input. I guess this gives more user control for pulls like twigs and antlers, pulls that are linear in that there are two fixing screw posts, but asymmetrical. Edit: I am attaching a pic of a twig pull, one that looks different when upright as shown but rotated 180 degrees. We have full control over such assymetrical pulls as this, now.

What you seem to want is called a kiva fireplace. Seen all over the southwest from Santa Fe to La Jolla. What you show in your post immediately above is not the same shape as what is shown in the photo in your original post. What is your goal here? Are you needing to draw something that is going to get built? Are you doing an as-built? Has a client asked for some design concepts to be modeled by you to get ideas for possibly building or remodeling? Here is a great resource from which you can get some dimensions. https://adobelite.com/manuals/Adobelite_Wood_Burning_Installation_Manual.pdf

I noted that the webinar video was done using X14 and can confirm that the hardware app works differently X14 vs X15. In 14, there is one choice only for the Moderno bar pull, and when used with paint in object mode, correctly orients the pull on the door (vertically), while the same one-click action places one horizontally on the drawerfront. X15 is changed, in that there are multiple choices in the bonus library for the Moderna bar pull. One is called Moderno Handle and the other is called Moderno Bar Pull. I can see no difference in either the 3D model, or the result one gets applying it to a cabinet in object mode. In X15, I get the same result as @DaniellaZV. The Moderna hardware (either one) goes on the drawerfront correctly, bar horizontal, but incorrectly on the door. See her post #1 above. The door pull needs to be edited, first to rotate it, next to adjust height. I edited both height and horizontal placement, the horizontal edit to place it at center of stile. So the answer to Daniella's dilemma is, Chief changed the app X14 to X15, no explanation given, but that the tools are there to make the hardware work.