GeneDavis

Hi @TSarantopulos What version of Chief? Need to know. I might know how to do it quickly in X whatever, but we don't know what you are using. Best way to tell us is in your sig line. See mine. Go to your account settings, find "signature," and give us the digits.

None of us like to download pics from links. Attach them right in your post, and it always helps to post a plan file.

Easy to make one. Set the symbol's origin so it sits how you want. You might even try the wrap.

There was an older post about the spin rate and how to slow it down, and @Alaskan_Sonsaid to change the setting in the camera positioning tab, to lower the rotation angle. I changed it from the OOB 10 down to 1 and it made no diff.

How is this done? I see no option. Maybe I can do a screen recording of the building rotating slowly, viewed in framing overview. How might that be done?

Eric has the answer! I did a search and confirmed my initial thought, that these are done with extruded aluminum frames. A very cool modern look, although just as for open front cabs, whatever you store inside had better look good. Not a good look for where I store my baking flours and seeds. https://www.scavolini.com/us/magazine/the-elegance-of-kitchens-with-aluminium-framed-glass-doors Edit: having built lots of cabinets, I couldn't help myself, and looked up how these might be hinged. The Salice Air Hinge is the answer. Have a look.

Stile and rail doors with glass panels? Or glass slab doors?

@NewUserSargentSource of the design? Is it yours? Do you know how to build a cricket? If the plan's from a web page, post a link, please.

Imagine the drainage problems this roof creates. There are six points where gable rakes die into cricket roofs, where the carpenters will need to do mini-crickets overframed atop the bottom ends of the valleys the large crickets create. This is a plan hallucinated by a "designer," one no experienced architect would doodle even on her worst day. Edit: Here is a pic of the way the garage roof should resolve onto the adjacent house roof. The designer did not draw this, though, and gable-ended the garage over the lower house roof. To look right, that gable has the same overhang as every other gable in this fantasy roofscape, which means the rakes die onto the lower roof. Hipping like this avoids that and results in good drainage. And here is a pic of the mess you get yourself into when your designer does the gable thing. I began the work of placing a 3:12-pitch cricket in one of the two problem corners. A skilled attentive builder with good carpenters, sheet metal guys, and roofers can get this to work, but too often things go wrong.

I see what's going on. I would manually roof the plan. The elevations give enough info to do all you need. Those roof planes you have colored, the two that flank the high roof gable ends, are crickets. It's how Iearned to use Chief, that is, get images of a stock plan, and go to work, screencapping plan views and elevation views and importing the pics into your plan, resizing as needed to get close to the right scale. See the missing line in that plan view you have for a source? The garage's right end is a gable, and the line for the gable is missing in the plan view. I did not open your plan. How certain are you that the footprint of exterior walls matches the source plan?

I uninstalled and did a new install, and tried to open the file that was open and Chief locked up. Won't open, message says file is corrupted. In project mode, where are the archives?

Here is the error message. It locked up earlier today when doing a camera move in 3D vector mode, and I had to do a hard shut down (press and hold power button.) How is a reinstall done?

Screencaps would be nice. Go to Edit > Default Settings > Walls > Exterior Walls and select Exterior Walls, then Wall Types, Define, and click on the main layer which should be the framing layer. Show us the screen. Your stud spacings should be set to 24". Now to to the plan that is misbehaving, select an exterior wall that you know framed instead at 16" centers, open the wall, its wall def, select the framing layer, and show us what the screen is displaying.

In previous versions, the molding p-line with break at door casings without doing jumps, and the segment across a door, from outside casings, would be "no molding on selected edge." X17 wants to jump the molding p-line, and the results are not right. A jump turn is made, and the molding gets mitered. Bug? See the pics.

3D > Materials > Plan Materials, select the floor finish you want to rename, copy it to make a new material, call it whatever you want, maybe ROB 3-4-5, and then change the rooms to have the new shorter-name flooring, which will look the same as the one you copied.

OK, @jorgearaya, if that is what it is designed to do, but fails with respect to getting results I need, and no way to fix, what is that different tool? Or more but not to the point, then, what is this Rotate Plan tool designed to do? What is it's purpose? If Edit > Edit Area is the right approach (I've used it before), why this thing? I solved my dilemma using Edit > Edit Area. And edited truss did not survive the rotation and I had to re-do it, but that was all.

I used Tools > Rotate Plan View and my elevation callouts (Front Elevation, Left Elevation, etc.) are wrong for me now, and my Y axis is plus down and not plus up.

But I'd like to do it without the appliance. I do other appliances that aren't in libraries.

I know I have done this successfully before but cannot remember the method for spec. I do a trashbin pullout (Rev-a-shelf hardware) drawer in most kitchens I model. See the pic here. How do I get the handle up and onto the top rail of the paneled drawerfront, instead of the center? I cannot get a handle on it if I spec it as a door panel or drawer panel. As shown in pic, when I spec it as a drawer (which it is), I cannot move the handle where wanted without affecting the drawer above. If I spec it as a bottom hinged drawer, I get the handle where I want, but I don't want the opening indicator.

I am having an awful time with X17 locking up when in a standard camera view or in PBR. Even when in perspective framing overview, with the standard camera view showing all that fir grain on every stud, cripple, rafter, and beam, any mouse move with the camera makes my laptop lock. The only out is a hard close via holding down the power button. Wanting to see what my exteriors look like after making changes in 2D, or wanting to see roomscapes, I do a lot of perspective camera viewing, moving the camera when in view with the mouse. I've had dozens of lockups when doing this. You can view my system specs in my sig. The driver is the 32.0.15.7700 from July 12, 2025. I went to put that newer one in but read the warning in the recent thread about that one causing crashes. What I want is to set my Chief to use vector view no patterns as the default camera setup whenever I go to perspective overview and perspective framing overview. I think this will solve my problem. I know I can change the camera view type when the view opens, but I want the view to open in what I am now considering "safe from lockup" mode. How is this done?

I've one room in this project drawn with a ceiling plane pitched to match roof above. I drew parallel chord trusses and all are OK, but I need one joist at the wall and it draws level. Is this a bug?

Here is a pic of my driver detail.

What's irregular? i go through the entire project imagining it fully framed, room by room, roof plane by roof plane, and focus first on all the structural bearings. Walls, beams, columns, posts. Ceiling framing comes last, but i've already considered it in deciding whether ceiling framing bears on top wall plates or if a wall balloon-frames through. Post your plan, stripped of everything not structural, so we can see what you've got. No cabinets, no appliances, no plumbing fixtures. Just all the walls, platforms, roofs, with all the window and door openings.

My standard detail for wall cabinets is to raise the deck 1-1/4", make the door overhang the deck bottom that same amount, and place a 3/4" x 1-1/8" light rail under the deck flush to the front, right behind the door. It works to house and mask my undercab LED tape lighting (WAC) and my angled plugmold at rear wall detail. Using the faceframed option for carcases, separation set to 3/4, add at the bottom front an opening 1-1/4" h., and make the door reveal for the deck (the bottom 3/4" "separation," -1-1/4". For joined runs of wall cabs, I want the end cabs, those with finished ends (sides), I leave the side alone, but any sides that butt to another wall cab get the "custom face" treatment to the side that abuts, adding the same opening at 1.25" to the bottom. To be a purist, I do the same at the back with the bottom opening. The cabinet shop builds these boxes this way: for 36" tall cabs, the doors are 35-7/8" tall (my top reveal for wallcabs is 1/8"), the carcases are 36 - 1.25 = 34.75" tall, and any that are ends have the appropriately side 36" high, the 1.25" overhang at bottom. You can see the results of my doodling in the pic below. It's an end box, the near side flush to the deck bottom, the far side overhanging to match the door. The light rail molding is something I do after a cab arrangement is all final, and is done with the molding tool. It's not within the cabinet modeling dialog. I don't know how to remove that little stile stub you see in the near bottom corner. Maybe @MarkMc can weigh in here and show us how.

Thanks! That's it. Wonder why it is considered an interior wall. I could not find any Chief traning vids about clerestory windows and walls.