GeneDavis

What exactly are we talking about here? My interpretation of @Leadcarpo's q is how to separately control display of note callouts in elevation views, from their size in the note schedule. I did a test, cutting an elevation view, placing a note, generating a note schedule, setting control manual in the note's d'box, setting text size to that for 1"=1', setting callout size at 24 inches, and look at what is generating. I can do the box uncheck DB advises, and can change the size of the callout circle in the schedule, but without knowing what the OP wants to do, I cannot advise a solution.

You need more depth for the floor structure, which adds cost in not just floor structure, but labor to build whatever fill and corner work is needed, plus the cost of extra stairs height, more exterior wall sheathing and finish. Explain this to the client and produce good 3D renders of it done with both six and twelve inch tray height, both dropped and not. Further, more stair height means more stair area in the floor plan and reduction of living space.

Welcome to the forum @draftlab! It is essential we know what Chief software you are running (X15, X12, . . . ) and also what hardware you run it on. This, so we can best help you when you have questions such as in this post. Up at top right, click on your name, then go to Settings and scroll down to Signature, and enter all your info.

Am I missing a setting somewhere? I have a gable over which is a 10:12 roof, set gable wall for auto returns 42", 6" extension, want to lower pitch to 5 from the 10 but the returns won't select for spec dialog.

Roof returns are done to eliminate the bad architectural practice of having a pork chop end, and unless you give a return its own return (check "hip"), including frieze wrap, as is done by using the molding, you get a pork chop. Best practice is to do the returns at a lower pitch than the roof above. I had a great pork chop at a steak joint called Perry's the other night. But I don't like to see them on roof corners.

You should go to their forum and ask. This one is for Chief Premier users.

You gotta turn it on. Did you? For any new fixture I am doing, I do a one room tiny house, maybe 10 feet square, and place the fixture in the room, then set a camera view, then do all the work of editing the light source for lumens, position, direction, all the settings for beamspread, etc., if it is a spotlight, and settle things with materials for the shade, reflector, bulb, cord, etc.

Your toilets flush backward. Is there a fix for that?

I like to do a circular or elliptical single camera walkaround of the exterior, same speed and at constant height (look for that setting) so the camera does not dip or rise with terrain. Try it at different speeds to see what works best to view the details. Also, I'll do a flyover view of each floor in dollhouse view, only two or max three drone rides, to display the feel of the moves and relationships from space to space. Finally, I do what Alan describes above at floor levels, single dolly moves, very few camera changes, to exhibit the spaces and features in a walkthru feel, then go to the video editor to string things together with fade ins and outs between the shorts.

Did you explode the dormer? Explode it and turn off autobuild, and get busy editing the top main roof to chop out where the dormer lies, and the dormer roof plane overhangs to extend to the porch roof below.

Solid. We have the wrap option for lintels, but what you are showing seems like a jigsaw cut on a flat board, not a return (wrap). It'll take you a couple minutes. Hey, it's billable hours, right?

Are you wanting a textured clapboard siding material? Surface as seen with James Hardie "Cedarmill" or LP Smartside? If so you'll need a seamless image of lapping boards. Show us how your solution looks.

AFAIK, auto-gen roofs spring from roofs and the roof directives in the wall spec are what make the roof planes. I don't see walls that can used. The upper part of your feature is a dormer, and you can use dormer tools to generate something there to get you started, but I think you'll need to do editing to bring the roof gable overhang down to the lower porch roof.

Simplify it. Outdoor decks with stairs are not drawn using stairwells to chop structure. Draw the deck with the corner chop-out where the stairs go, draw your landing, then connect with the two runs of stairs.

I agree with Rene, but don't understand why those would cause such a slow render. It's slow on mine. What is the workaround? Do the fireplace all in solids?

Is this, to use your term, an elevated gable?

Thanks for the feedback, Joe. Your preference for label on swing side made the lightbulb click ON in my head. I now understand Alan's @Gawdziraterm innies and outies terms. Innie is label inside the swing arc (your term: to the actual swing side) and outie is the side opposite swing. Let's hope we get a change in X17 to make this a setting in defaults so no editing is needed to place offset labels.

So I drew a rectangular house exterior and four interior walls, two vertically, two horizontally. The walls drawn vertically, one drawn from top down, one from bottom up. Same for the horizontal walls, one drawn L to R, the other R to L. And the offset for the interior door labels, one door placed in each of the four walls, was set in the default to be plus 12". The labels all are placed on the right side of the wall. Imagine you are the cursor being placed and dragged to make a wall. You are looking forward during the drag move. Right side of wall is to your right. So that info in the help files about label placement should be clarified. The "object" spoken of for label placement is not the door (or window or slider or passthrough, etc.) but the wall itself, and the right side of a wall is set when it is drawn, click-drag-release. And that label, when placed, stays there if the door is edited for swing or side or both. And the easiest way, this for interior doors only that go into interior walls with same finish layers both sides, the easiest way to flip the label R to L is to select not the door, but the wall, and then click the wall reverse layers button.

Thanks, @DBCooper. Take a look at this snip from the help manual. I don't get it for doors.

On floor level 0, with the reference floor showing floor 1 above, draw foundation walls, the frostwalls ("foundation walls") you want under the bedroom addition walls, where needed. Now go to level 1 and open the addition room and edit its structure appropriately, specifying that this foundation "room" supplies floor for the room above. Edit the absolute elevation of the floor level to what you want. I have presumed your "addition" has a slab floor structure. A section through things at this point might look something like what is shown in the pic, below. Now you gotta figure out what to do at the interface.

I saw the post in Suggestions that revived the ask for door label positions that are right for innies and outies whatever that means. In this pic you see two interior doors D07 and D08 that I placed after going into the doors default and setting the label offset at plus 12" in y direction. The help manual implies the x and y axes are those of the symbol. Door D07 has a left hand swing and D08 is right hand. I placed both using the interior door tool and edited neither for swing. The labels placed when I placed the doors. Can someone explain the logic for me of how Chief placed the labels? A word, it's rather a question, about innies and outies. In my former life in the door biz, and having bought and installed lots of doors, exterior hinged doors are specified by both swing (in or out) and hinge hand (R or L). Interior doors are typically specified only as R or L. Latching hardware ("locks") for doors is a whole separate topic and is not discussed here in my post. So, for interior doors, what's an innie? Does in or out for an interior door mean the side the lock is on if the door is lockable?

Ackshully , @glennw it turns out to be easier than that. Just extend the adjacent walls across their nearby bump-ins, autobuild the roof, and then unclick autobuild in the build roof dialog, and drag those wall ends back to where they were. You end up with a big chunk of the baseline out there in the bump-in where the wall was, but its a couple of quick clicks and drags to nip them back where they belong.

I'm not gonna open your plan, but here is mine. I believe it meets the specs, pitch wise and roof-plane-arrangement-wise, as what the architect drew. Canada roof.plan

I did a screencap of the roof plan view, pasted it into a new file, drew the perimeter walls, set all the needed roof directives in the needed walls, letting it autoroof as I went along, then in 3D (vector view, no color, toggle patterns OFF) edited the roof planes at rear (delete two and edit the one that has the eave line per plan) and here it is. The shed dormer needs to be done manually as auto-roof does not do dormers. What's the problem? And if any auto-roofing gurus are here in the room, tell us how you get this one to autobuild at the rear plane. Here is what the wall-jog at rear produces in auto roof. There is a wall jog of about two feet. The architect plan extends the overhang at the longer segment so there is one common roof plane as shown above. What do you do in Chief to make that roof plane generate as one (as edited by me) and not produce the two planes that I deleted.

Post the Chief plan. Looks like the plans are done, job al ready for permit and build. Are you copying this for practice?