GeneDavis

I ended up using a Kohler undermount tub, which I capped with a quartz countertop. Much easier to clean a shower-room with this, versus with a freestanding tub. Think about those hard-to-reach surfaces between a slipper tub and nearby walls.

I tried resizing the one that is sort of like it in the Chief library, but got a big crack in the tub. See attached. What I want is exactly the one Depot sells. See the pic and the spec.

This is for those of us who have watched Rene Rabbit's excellent how-to video on building a shower. Here it is. First of all, he is doing it in X12. I am trying to build mine in X13. My hang ups are: how do you do the pony wall glass over framed whatever, as a railing wall, which is what Mr R does in the video. His wall models the shower wall as most get built: glass does NOT run up to the ceiling. So he is not needing to drag a wall top down (a cautioned no-no by most of us here). Rene has the wall in his library in this X12 show, but in X13 Chief put a glass over tile-clad frame pony wall in the prebuilt walls and gave it a build icon, and it's NOT a railing. I try specifying it as a railing wall and then things blow up on me. I lose the wall cap atop the lower wall section. Next hang up: The plate hinges for the glass door, the door handle, and the fixed glass panel brackets, all of which Mr R says are in Chief's core content library. They are not in mine. What's up. So, anybody got those brackets? I don't really need the glass door "plate hinges" because Chief prebuilt us a shower door complete with hinges and handle for X13, but what about the needed brackets? I remember back, way back in X single digits, maybe 8 or 9, scratch building all this stuff. Hinges, brackets, handle, all done in Sketchup and imported into Chief. Right up there in the 3D Warehouse yet today, "hinges for frameless shower door."

For the subfloor, which looks like anybody's OSB, you just call it out in specs and point to it in a CAD detail.

Yes. Hyperlink in Chief! How?

I just did and wonder how it will turn out for the users. I tried it using my iPhone and it works nicely, but am wondering how someone viewing the .pdf with a PC might get to it. Maybe I should include the URL on the doc. I can then be cut and pasted into one's browser. An iPad should do it nicely just like the phone did.

I want to show the basement floor slab in the 3D view, which means I want the floor surfaces layer turned on. OK I get that and did that. But the 3D is showing me the 3/4 OSB up on the main floor deck which sits atop this walkout foundation. What do you do to separate that out? And then there is the pony wall element in this. My walkout walls are pony walls, stemwalls down to below frost line, wood framed from grade on up. How do you separate out the top part of the pony walls? I know how to use the delete surface tool, but was hoping I could do this another way.

That did it. Thanks.

Zipped X13 file attached. In the walkout basement, I did a tray drop in the game room, and something happened in the adjacent hall, causing it to have a full drop. How do I restore the hall to a no-tray situation. Screencap with both rooms highlighted is attached. I cannot seem to find a check box to uncheck, and I cannot recall doing anything to upset that hall room structure's ceiling. Wilmington modern.zip

Mine's nowhere near as sophisticated as Mr Hampton's beauty. As it is looking now, I have the high roof, which is not "modern" flat, but a 4:12 pitch, framed with series 230 14" i-joists, and a pieced-up overhang as shown in the detail, attached. Why I did not go with just extending the whole joist out, I don't know. Probably because I was thinking about a much thinner edge than what this has become. The roof arrangement is a hybrid, the high part being the thick-edge 4:12 "slab," the front a low 2:12 arrangement with a hipped piece. Roofing will be standing seam steel. I gave the hipped roof part a smaller fascia, thinking the heavy slab look for the edge was only right for the shed pitches.

This is more about architecture and aesthetics, but what the heck, I'll put it here rather than in chat. I am doing one of these with what I call slab roofs. Low pitched, large overhangs, no ridges, all shed-type roof planes. A look through the plans-sellers images, and in galleries at realtor shops, and also in the Chief sample files such as "Austin," and others with roofs like this, I see very thick roof edges. And this style demands thickness. The roofs must look like appropriately thick slabs. Austin has 1.5" x 16" subfascia, for example. The one I am doing does not have the mass in its elements to go 16, but still, it takes 12 to make it look right to me. My question to you, is how are you framing these type roof edges? Depths like this take a lot of 2x12 lumber, or composite rimboard lumber, or a buildup of OSB and sticks. Do you just say I give up and sock the timber to it? I attached a snip I took from one of the plans-selling websites. The one I am doing has about this scale.

Well, if it was done in Autocad, . . .

Wait until she sees all the 2x6s needed in lengths like 27'-4 1/2". No matter how carefully modeled with framing built, I find that Chief framing has to be edited extensively for the buy list to be worth anything. For pricing purposes, I prefer to use the total lineal feet output.

How's it look with the lights dimmed way down?

And here's a guy showing how it is done with engineered trusses and site-cut fillets made from 3/4" CDX. This works when the fillet size is such that the parts can be cut from 4x8 sheets. It's a little more tedious with longer curved sections.

Here are a couple images of a roof profile begun as a 14/12 with a 12' span, rafters cut from 2x10s with one intermediate purlin beam, made with a pair of 2x10s. You can get a feel for the curve from the skewed view. I think it is something like what you have in your Chief model. One continuous curve eave to ridge. The house photo you show seems to have that roof section done with the curve in only its lower half, the curve more pronounced. That is the way I would design it.

I've done it with a bandsaw and regular framing lumber, and sheathing done with two layers of 3/8 OSB. For your curve, you will likely need a couple flush beams at the third-points of the curve, so your sliced rafters have OK depth at their skinniest middles. Laying out and cutting pattern parts for use in marking the cut lines on the lumber is the careful part. When the framer ******* about not having a bandsaw, tell him to buy a 14-inch one and Craigslist it when done. You can sell one in a day. I sold one to a timber framer who dismounted it from the stand and rigged it to a CNC-controlled arm for cutting curves in timber parts.

Who is determining the look? Is this a builder doing spec-builds? Has he a client, that is wanting this basic craftsman style? Your image shows no extensions for the lintel crown, or the sill. Is this what your client wants? It does not meet the basic standards of "craftsman" to do it that way. I suggest your client spend some time at this web page, and decide on the details, print some images and hand-annotate them, so you can then proceed to do something for him. https://windsorone.com/idea-gallery/category/craftsman-style/ I've included these pics on drawings in the past to show trim details. Pics include some stock molding numbers, but I made sure the builder had easy access to supply of them from his preferred supplier. First pic is of exterior window trim. I don't dimension extensions, because I trust a trim carpenter can execute things right if seeing the pics first.

Are the trim elements all simple flat board stock? Or are profiled moldings being used? I'd ask the builder for on-paper examples of what he wants. Doesn't seem normal to me. One reason is that profiled moldings differ in width from one molding manufacturer to the next.

Here is what came to my mind.

Here is just one of the training videos Chief has on this topic. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/30/cost-estimating-using-structural-member-reporting.html?playlist=104

i'm old fashioned. 2D CAD on structural plans. 2D CAD details for most, 3D for anything out of ordinary. If somebody's gonna DIY a housebuilding project, structural hardware's just one of several dozen things he's gonna need to learn about. Manufacturer installation instructions are where that detail resides. i don't want to bog down a house model with thousands of unnecessary surfaces.

Thanks, Mark! I had a feeling the Cabinet Wizard would weigh in, and I have downloaded your trays. When doing actual cabinet build prep, which I do for some of the kitchen and bath work, I'll use either spacer blocks to create the side clearance, or no blocks, and zero protrusion hinges. See the Blum catalog cut, attached. Use of these hinges puts the doors, when opened 90 degrees, just like Chief depicts open doors.

Here is a workaround that gives what's needed. I rebuilt a drawer-tray with an element around its sides and back that fakes the clearances. In the symbol dialog, I made the material for the wrap element "insulation air gap." I use Sketchup for this, but it could be built in Chief (I think.) As can be seen in the Chief render, it works. This, in PBR. If you render in something that has edge lines, you'll see the edges of the air-gap wrap though.

I did not try that, Mick. I'll fool with it and see. See my suggestion for better control of this, just posted now.