GeneDavis

Hey Eric, show us the light's settings. Thanks.

Edit in the plan, not by changing defaults.

All the foundation builder needs is shown on the plan view he uses. He is issued just two prints out of a 24-page set. The 3" depth is done by him using two thicknesses of 2x lumber screwed to his forms. The LVLs bearing in these only need 1-3/4" for full load.

Hail Perry!

Thanks! Both work, and either works, so I did the double fix.

What's the setting I am missing? It was part of a recent thread I cannot find. A ceiling plane is getting cut by a "room" I made in a greatroom space, and I cannot figure how to make it not do the cut.

Won't install. Anybody else? t

I have not tried that. Which sink are you using. To work that way, the sink's 2D must include the c'top cutout, and I've not been successful doing that with an imported symbol from Kohler. I want the resultto look like the way I build them. Pics are my result, and a photo from Kohler.

Their models are true 3D, and I prefer the porcelain ones. I take the model into Sketchup and model the U-shaped front panel into it, then change the drain and basket to a different material, and bring it into Chief. It's tedious, because I then make a short cabinet with no countertop upon which to set the sink-with-apron, and do a custom countertop with the cutout, all corners rounded with 3/4 R. You have an easier way, I'm sure. What is it?

Look at the product literature from Cor-A-Vent.

You gotta do it by hand, just like the tile setter. Search for previous threads on this, and you'll see.

I'm doing one with a lot of overframed roof segments, both trussed and stick-framed. Always the under-roof is trussed. These are tedious to roof, if you want the framing details right and the material lists to be close, but that's what's expected from me for this one guy I draw for. Every under-roof has to be stripped of its finishes above the sheathing, so they have to be separated from their adjacent planes, and respecified accordingly. You can't use join-roof-plane tools to do the valley and hip and ridge intersections, so you go with all the tedium of editing using the temp points of intersects. Overframing has got to be a common thing in residential housebuilding, much more common than NanaWall doors, slide-by glass doors, pocket doors in cabinets, and some of the other recent requests. Shouldn't this have some automation to it, much like we have a way to say what a wall spec is when it is abutted to a roof?

Joe, I haven't and I will. Here is JeldWen's page for stacking multi-slide, and note those that pocket. https://www.jeld-wen.com/en-us/products/patio-doors/browse?style=Multi-Sliding

There are two classes of doors mentioned in this thread, both of which Chief should address with mods. Stacking multi-slides are what Rob is needing. Almost all in market are aluminum, and almost all are warm-clime doors. Fold-in and stack. Often referred to with the NanaWall brand. Cost as much as a car. Just as we got barn doors from Chief, we should get these. Good 2-d representation, and in 3-d, options to show open or closed, and for open, how much open. Who's done proper requests for these?

Sounds like what I'm looking at in my Florida house right now. Three panels each on rollers, open it and the connecting slides allow stacking. I'm thinking these are generally warm climate products, and most are aluminum-framed. But I was talking about the brands like Andersen, Pella, Marvin, Lincoln, Windsor. Hope you wrote up a suggestion for Chief to ponder, and it ought to include images.

Mull to fixed is the way they're bought and built, so just do it. Think about it. For an OXX, the rightmost X is a fixed in its own frame. Look at the standard size charts from the big name manufacturers.

Look carefully at your wall definition panel. Use the help function if needed, the button at bottom when the spec dialog is open.

You cannot make the vertical (wall) face of the p'solid one color, and the sloped underside (ceiling) face another, so it does not do the job needed. Chief has code written to diddle walls at roof intersects, and to track stairs to handle railings (follow stairs). I'll write up a suggestion.

When your wall is one color and ceiling another, it's a tedious process to get the surfaces precise and seamless. This is s common-enough situation in walls and stairs for Chief to solve with tools.

The search tool here does not help me find threads dealing with this. I have a wall next to a stairway from basement to floor 1, and a return wall under where we get enough headroom for doing something under, in our case a fridge for the lounge room wet bar. How does one get a triangle-shaped wall up there to close off the stairway side? I don't want to have to edit-shape a wall, or do a p'solid. I'm hoping to learn something new and useful.

That did it. Thanks.

In a garage with storage in attic framed with attic trusses, I drew a hole in ceiling, in which to place the 3D model of folding attic stairs I got from the 3D warehouse. I want to show the client what he'll see when going up there in this 3'8" high space, and lo and behold, there is a ceiling above the ceiling hole. How do I delete the ceiling finish? Edit: for the purpose of doing an image, I can delete it with the Delete Surfaces tool, but how do I make it really gone?

You'll need a new wall defined as sheathing and finish, but here's how I did it. Copy the wall type used for exterior in your plan. Save it as Gable Truss Face or anything else you want to call it. Delete the interior finish layer, likely drywall. Change the material (texture) of the main framing layer to Insulation Air Gap. Now you've a wall you can align to the one below.

Rafter tail won't work. What you need is a fascia tail. I do the barge rafters with the 1.5" or 2" roof plane method, and I add a small shadow board to match the minimal facia in the adjoining eave. CAD detail from view in section is the means of getting the top and bottom edges of the decorative end, a poly solid. If the client's gonna pay the builder to doodle these, he's gonna have to pay you to model them so there's clear direction on con docs of what to do. The 3D is a byproduct of this work.

Take a look in defaults. Saved Text Styles>Default Label Style