GeneDavis

If you are doing parallel chord trusses at 16" depth, simply set your roof structure up that way, with 16" deep rafters. Chief will position the drywll ceilings and your envelope is all set for your trusses. Chief does not generate truss framing. You do it, manually. Watch some training videos. Do NOT set roofs to auto-frame. Place all trusses where they belong. I set the ridge size in the framing spec dialog to 2x4, so when I autoframe the roof all the ridge and valley fill gets placed. Autoframe will place all the subfascia per your size specs. The only time you draw ceiling planes is when you're doing ceilings that aren't flat and pitches don't match roofs above.

I'm gonna do it with roof planes! And then, terrain!

Post the plan. Should be small enough to not have to compress. Something's up with the attic rooms.

I got this from the 3D Warehouse, and modified the model to add the ribs and segment out the materials so Chief could be used to assign them properly. I cannot seem to get the right combination of materials, emissivity and translucency, plus light types, strengths, and position to get a realistic render. Plus, and this is big, CPU raytrace and PBR deliver very different looks. What can you do to guide me. Nelson saucer.plan

So here is the new challenge. Use Chief and make the one I showed upthread, the one sitting up on CMUs.

Sketchup used to be free, or rather, one could download a version of the program and have it reside on your hard drive. I have the last of those releases, Sketchup Make 2017, on my PC. I believe that now you have to subscribe to get Sketchup, and it is not inexpensive. That one I showed upthread is a very well thought out design, and the model, which I downloaded from the warehouse, is very well done. A rather ingenious thing is done to make the screen panels inside the U, the three you need for access, as rollups. And as I said upthread, trained users can model what you showed in Chief, and they have showed it. But you want a material list, and a drawing or drawings, so someone can actually built this. Chief will not deliver this. I took the SU model and isolated just the upper frame assembly and quickly took measurements. See the attached. I can quickly count and list the parts, all of which are from 1x2 lumber. Doing the beds part would go just as fast.

Chief is not really the application for your task. Others may say yes you can model it, and yes, you can, but there are some tricks in doing the modeling that will require you to get deep into Chief know-how. It ain't a starter project. You want to produce drawings and a material list for building this, and the material list part is going to be well nigh impossible for Chief to do it "automatically." There is 2x2 lumber, 1x4 lumber, wire fabric, hinges, a door latch, all of which you are best figured out manually and typed into text to put the list on the drawing. I could do this in Sketchup in twenty minutes. Edit: I opened up Sketchup, and went to the 3D Warehouse to see what was there, and look. Very well thought out. An irrigation line for doing drip, roll up screening in just enough area to be able to access everything, and the blocks have it up high enough for no-stoop access. No hinged door needed.

Here is my section view of wall cabinets. Whatever backsplash there is goes up to the bottom of the plugstrip molding.

Thanks, Mark. That was the refresher I needed. I somehow misremembered something to do with a door symbol with an origin up off the bottom by the overhang amount. I see it is the item reveal that is the setting. But it's an almost right, no? There's no way to get an 1/8" reveal between double doors, is there?

I cannot remember how this is done. I have come close in the past but I think Mr Cab Wizard, Mark, gave me a file with the cab I needed. I want to know how to do this from the ground up. Wall cabinets only. A frameless look. Plain "shaker" doors, just frame and panel. 1/8" reveal at top. 1/16" reveals at sides. 1/8" margin between double doors. 1-1/4" overhang at bottom. This for the way we do the undercab lighting, and the way we do the plug-strip molding for receptacles at rear. I built a door symbol in Sketchup, imported it into Chief and classified it as a "door/drawerfront." Set its origin up 1.25" from the bottom. Placed a thin stretch zone vertically to do proper width resizing. Tried using it as the door in a wall cabinet, and failed. Cab trial.plan

Here you go. Great information here. http://www.enconunited.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/HCM002-Hollow-core-Residential-Design-Manual-Complete-3.23.15.pdf

Glenn, I am just following what I believe to be the conventional wisdom as re walkout basement builds. Here is Chief's Scott showing us how. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/51/creating-a-walkout-basement.html?playlist=101 Here is a file of a model I did for Chief's techs out in the support office, where I filed my ticket about this problem with my job model. It did not exhibit the behavior, but I did not build any framed walls to fur against the foundation. Test floor.plan

Thanks, Steve, for the work and the video. And thanks, Ryan, for your observations. I sent the file in with a ticket to Chief, and I also sent them this test file, same kind of condition, which does NOT exhibit the problem. There is something screwy in my job file. Test floor.plan

I guess I'll have to.

I'd like not to use a workaround. The floor needs to stop at the inside face of the wall. What is the one little thing in the plan that's causing this unwanted behavior?

No.

And I cannot reproduce this when sketching up a quick new simple plan. Never seen it before in doing walkout basements, and almost everything I do has a walkout basement. In the stripped file I have posted here, see above, I can make the floor behave properly by pulling (in plan view) any of the three interior walls, that butt to the pony wall (framed over stemwall), just back enough to disconnect. What could this be? See the pic attached for the walls, any one of which if separated from the pony wall, makes the floor-thru problem go away.

Yes, the difference between those two doors is that the double hinged door is in an unfinished storage room wall, so the 1/16" raise puts its bottom "in the air" and above the subfloor, the slab being the subfloor. I'm gonna put a 3/32 finish on the floor in that room, call it gray paint, and see what happens. That'll put the door's bottom "within the finish." Edit: and that fixed it. But I have other plans with doors on subfloor, not elevated, and no sill or casing under. However, they have a finish layer atop the "subfloor."

That does not work, but thanks. I stripped all the trees (wow are they a space hog!) and all the fixtures and furniture from the plan, and it is attached. Stripped.zip

So you're gonna give your wall schedule and ask the lumberyard to quote wall framing? Or a sheetrock contractor? What about ceilings? Same with painting. How much OSB for sufloor? Have contractors and suppliers said specifically "I need wall schedules?" Give us the specifics of how far off your material list is for a job. Post a plan file here.

Who would use this data and how?

Walkout basement plan. At the walkout framed walls, the pony wall break, stemwall below, framed wall over, is at the rough basement floor elevation. The floor slab, which is built as 4" concrete over 2" rigid foam, comes through the wall to coincide with the main layer outside. How can this be controlled? I'd like to have the floor bear INTO that wall 2" from the inside, which we can do by blocking 2" foam pieces in the wall forms before pouring concrete. But I sure don't like seeing the lines in elevation, or the foam in 3D views.

I've a walkout basement and doors in the walkout walls. One door is a double hinged door, the other a sliding glass door. Both are raised 1/16" off rough floor as a workaround to make the foundation plan show continuous stemwall across the openings. See in the pic, the hinged one has the (unwanted) casing showing under the door, the other does not. Both door specs identical. Exterior casing is checked, sill/threshold checked. Why is the slider door showing nothing under, but the hinged one does?

I've a walkout basement foundation, the walkout elevations as pony walls, framed above grade, frostwalls below. At a corner where we want full depth foundation joining the pony wall walkout wall, we want the pony wall to return 2-1/2" around the corner. I used CAD to show in plan view how the framing will go. I cannot make a wall that short to work. Longer, like maybe 12 inches works, but I cannot "force" a short wall how I want it. What is the trick?

I've been a Sketchup fan and user for a long time, since before my intro to Chief. I regularly use the 3D Warehouse as a source for symbols. Doing a job now for a client with a property near a ski mountain, at the base of which is a large mountain-biking center with many miles of trails, and threading through the valley is the beautiful west branch of the Ausable river, this all in the northern Adirondacks of New York state. The house has a storage room in its walkout basement with a double door to the rear part of the property, and I wanted to show them what it might hold. All the contents are from the 3D Warehouse. The Deere tractor and the kayaks (not the paddles) came in from the cloud way oversized. I always model at 1:1 in SU, but many people don't. SU has a great scale tool that would be nice to have in Chief.