GeneDavis

Thanks, Robert! That did it.

I needed one and always make sure if making a symbol, that it is a true-scale and true-detailed one that can be sourced for real. Doing kitchens for small houses, tiny houses, or ADUs, where space is tight, requires scaled-down appliances. Here is a Blomberg 24" bottom-freezer fridge. Some of their products (like their 24 inch ranges) have 3D files you can download from them to use as symbols, but this fridge was not that way. I have their 30 inch top freezer model which uses the same door shape and handles, so I was able to model this one pretty close using info in their spec sheet. Can you use one of these? It is counter depth and goes into a 24 x 70 hole. Here ya go. Just what you needed. A fridge symbol to blow up your plan file size. Blomberg 24 inch bottom freezer fridge.plan

Thanks, Robert. I have never ever wasted the time on dormer cheeks in a Chief plan I have on this one, and it is still not right. The upstairs bathroom cheek wall is kicking my butt. The other two are done. Not quite right, but done. Glen Road stripped.zip

Plan attached. The whole thing about roof cutting wall and pony walls and attic walls is a mystery to me when it comes to this arrangement. I have tried for hours to get this cleaned up, but cannot. It is 2x6 with siding above the roofs, 2x4 sheetrock below. What's so hard about that? The inside faces of the above and below wall are supposed to align, of course. And then there is the wall corner bite. What's that about? Glen Road Top End.plan

How would I make such a material? I would need an image, a material, a full 48 x 96 sheet of veneer, a black 3/16" strip across the top and one side, total size 48 3/16 x 96 3/16. And tile-able, meaning the grain at the bottom of a sheet is a match to that at the top, so that a stack of sheets going up the "wall" looks like continuous grain as you go from bottom to top across sheet joints. If I could not make it that way, and the perfectionist in me makes me want that kind of realism for this job, I'd do it as a color and not woodgrained. But how would I make such a material, even this simpler way, so I could get true-scale tiling?

I'd like to be able to model this in Chief. The "walls" that are the roof interior finish, are done with an architectural panel system hung with z-clips and snap-clips and precision set with reveals. The material is 1/2-inch phenolic sheet with a woodgrain laminate. None of the vertical walls in the project are hung with the panels, only the pitched roof undersides. Sure wish Chief would let us do material regions on roof undersides. What would you do to get this look in 3D with Chief?

What Michael said. And remember, Chief's fascia has its top outside corner (top of fascia) aligned with the top face of sheathing. That point, that corner tip, is not colinear with the point that is the baseline height, or the point that is the ridge height. Those two are at top of framing. Math will deliver you the number for your 12 pitch as it relates to 4 pitch, with roofs having same fascia height and fascia thickness. For 3/4 fascia, Chief delivers the math result, and the heel height difference is not 12 inches, but 11.8133704333". No bug. Real trig. I always dimension plans to show overhang to tip of fascia, and let the truss engineers and framers do the math for how to build.

Well you know what that means, right? Get that plan file up here and let's all have a look.

Roof plane spec dialog > Structure > Roof: Trim framing to soffits

That's an interesting way of doing the solid that is the hump. Could the curve be the distribution path for the rafter tails? All this guy's work has barenaked soffits with rafters exposed.

Edit your column widths right on the schedule.

Thanks, Eric. See my Suggestion, posted today. These warped-roof versions of which I speak have no bell-shaped valleys around the eyebrow. All the rafters have their top ends up either at a common "ridge" elevation, or are tied to hips. Each rafter is pitched differently, unlike what we get using the Chief curved roof tools and doing the joins.

Looks to me as if the numbers do not relate exactly to a unit of measure. More like S, M, and L sizing. You slide until you like the look.

It looks like a 2D elevation that has been colorized by hand (or done in something like Photoshop). You could do an elevation in watercolor, shadows on, no squiggle and no line extensions, mask out foundation or turn that off in layers, and hand it off to an artist or PS wizard. If your client the builder has to have exactly that as shown, I see no way to do it in Chief. The foreground "terrain," while flat, is drawn with features and lines to give it perspective, the driveway is given only a hint of texture to simulate wet pavers, and the window and door glass is airbrushed or painted to give it the appearance it is reflecting a wooded setting. No Chief tools will do any of this.

I am going to be doing con docs for something that has been sketched using these sources as inspiriation. I've watch these get framed, and all with straight rafters riding up over very gently arched wall plates. Two layers of sheathing, thin t&g, get used atop. Lotsa staples. Curved roofs with these quite large radii are troublesome for me. How would you do it?

With all the current tools at our disposal, how would you do this, and get the grout lines right, also. Not my work in the image.

It's gone, and it's a mystery why. And export to ResCheck? I can't accomplish that, either.

I'll bet Ron wants hollow metal frames, and as we all know, ya can't do the with Chief 3D. Do your best with the Chief tools, and detail it all with Chief 2D CAD if you gotta.

Going onto a big new "great camp" stone chimney, with seam details like the standing seam roof all below. Big copper chimney cap.plan

That big open space in the building where the stairs are, should be defined by walls and as Open Below.

When I needed to do a railing that had mirrored pairs of balusters repeating along railings and down stair railings, I made a symbol of the mirrored two, and that was my "baluster." I remember at the time taking a 3D of a Winchester Model 94 30-30 from the 3D Warehouse and making THAT a baluster, also, just to show that anything done in 3D can be a baluster. The three stooges would be a good one, if you had a low poly model. You've got a 4-straight-one-patterned repeat, so that group of 5 solids is your baluster. Show us your results, please. We're anxious to see your solution.

Chief's been asked to do proper door sills, but they are not here yet.

Thanks, all. So the method, now that I've practiced it, is to make sure polar is unchecked after the TAB opens the dbx, check the "relative" button, enter the desired offset into EITHER the x or y field, ZERO the other, and click OK.

Here is my problem. See the image. I go copy, paste in place, hold c, grab a corner and pull it in for concentric, stop the drag, hit TAB, enter 24", and I get what is shown. If I grab a side not a corner, do the same thing but after TAB, enter 12, I get the side dragged in and the opposite side, but not concentric behavior as I want. Chief takes the offset input and gives you the diagonal pull.

In Sketchup I do concentric copy resize, click-drag any side of a polygon, enter a distance into dbx, and hit return. The sides of the new are parallel offset by that distance. In Chief I gotta grab a corner, not side, to make all sides go c, and doing TAB then 1, does NOT make sides offset a parallel 1 inch. Can this be done differently?