GeneDavis

Open the Chief plan and examine the lighting. Look at the placement, the lighting specs for lumens, shadows, everything. The material "lighting white" is used for the globes. Look at the material specs for emissivity, transparency. An object that's white and highly emissive casts no light, but can block all light if a light source in inside.

Torn on the light source indicator in 3d and make sure your lights are not inside the globes.

There is no bug. General framing members cannot be rotated in 3D. If you want them able to be rotated, post it in Suggestions.

I made a 3D solid to do this. You can rotate framing in a wall layer that is framing and built with its studs and plates, but you cannot rotate general framing objects.

Watch one get hosed down to a depth of about 9 feet. No lateral bracing needed.

Ian took out all the pilings.

Are you here because you use Chief Architect? Because we can't tell. Look at my signature line. Where's yours? Does your software have training videos showing how to frame a floor? Chief Architect does.

Define "blend in." To me, hearing it from an interior designer, it suggests hombre. I drew two ceiling planes same pitch in a one-room house with roof, apart from each other, painted one blue, one left white, then dragged each to make a lower part blue and upper part white, then joined them. See the pic. What exactly are you looking to do? Attach a file and you'll get a better answer.

That's not its shape. From that peak's rear end the "ridge" of the cricket will be a level line across the upper roof over to the valley line. Manually draw a roof plane at that valley bottom, its baseline parallel to the work line you drew across the top, drag it up to that top, edit its pitch to have it ridge height match the canopy ridge, the edit in 2D plan to the triangular shape needed. Its fascia height should already be the valley bottom point where you started to draw the plane. Show us the result.

I saw that ceiling intersect as needing a custom molding. I'm a carpenter and have made and installed a lot of crown. No crown made for a 90 would look OK there. I'd install a bevel block first at the right size, then the crown used elsewhere. The bevel block is the custom piece. A 3D solid.

Take a section view, do CAD detail from view, draw the profile in place that pleases you, edit>cut, go back to section view, paste>hold position, convert to 3D solid, make it maybe 12" "thick" (i.e. length) so you can spot it easily in plan view, then in plan view drag its ends where they belong. Easier to do than to type out how. With my setup, it'll be textured concrete, so I'd have to paint it to match the other moldings. I just did a few of these in a plan to fill in some holes in drop ceilings under a staircase.

Hoe do you tag someone?

The very cool Metallark Tower, designed by one of the architects at SALA in Minneapolis. 20 foot by 20 foot footprint, some all-glass walls, a structural frame of corten steel that has half its members outside the walls, and a dead-flat roof with large overhangs done with purlins and heavy gage steel decking. I did a two-story box with 2x4 framing and no roof, and after getting help here with window shaping, can replicate the inside and the envelope with its glass, but is all the rest going to be an array of solids? I can do it readily, as I have already modeled the stuff in Sketchup, but are there Chief methods that will model the corrugated decking, the steel, etc? The rusty corrugated steel siding?

Thanks to all. I understand it now and can make things work for me.

Show me what you did, please.

What you show and what I want are two different things.

Looks like Elliott the OP has left the room, but here is my take on the "fill" for the crown.

I cannot do it cleanly. I want a window that is shaped with its left jamb leaning in 9.2 degrees. Exactly 9.2. I do the CAD workout to get the offset needed to be able to do the Chief dialog spec for "shape," but end up with those wild ears on the shaped side, and am unable to set the lower left corner at 0,0. Why can't this be done cleanly? Or can it? Certainly there is a need for such shaped windows, the same as a need to "shape" the top to match a roof pitch.

As for the crown molding, you can stack up any number of sections you need to decorate the tops of walls and talls. Experiment around in the molding dialog, adding sections, diddling the offsets, etc.

I think what Scott is talking about is what some in the truss biz call the California hip. I've seen it in pictures, but not in the field. In the two places I see builds, SW FL and upstate NY (two very different snow loads!), hips are done as per the arrangement in the lower half of the page, attached. Commons, stepdowns, girder, hip trusses, monotruss jacks across end and down the hips which are trusses. The CA way is to run a hip "joist," not a truss, but a member just like in a stickframed hipped roof, down from the girder truss and across the corner. This is what DSH is calling the hip beam. Note how the monotrusses have bottom chords that go under the hips and over to hang to the girder. Those monos and jacks are not triangular-built trusses, and I've no idea how they are handled in the field.

Nice arrangement and render. PBR?

And if you really want answers and fast, get used to posting the plan here. No need to give away secrets. Save a copy with some generic filename, strip out all the stuff that doesn't relate to the problem at hand. Terrain. Furniture. Fixtures. Cabinets. All the decorations. If it is over the 14 MB limit for direct attachment, zip it. If you'd posted a plan right up front, you'd be sure to have you answer by now, the right answer. Short of that, we are just guessing. And a lot of us don't like to guess. We skip your post. Remember Car Talk? That long-running radio show on NPR with the two brothers Click and Clack? Someone would call in and say something like, and I am paraphrasing, "any idea why my top of plate is locked?" The hook that show had, why you kept it on, listened every Saturday, was this: they made it entertaining, the way they probed and probed, funny comments and questions, while they drilled into the problem, to get to the solution. Well, this is Chief Talk, not Car Talk. It's not a live conversation, in which we can ask for more detail. So give all the details right up front, and you'll get good help, always. And fast.

How did you do that? I go into SHAPE for a fixed window, and the only thing that seems available to get anything is the arch panel, but none of those work for me. Edit: Further exploration into SHAPE got me fiddling with the TOP INSIDE CORNER spec, and I can sort of get where I want. Why doesn't Chief let you get closer to the corner than 1/4" in either x or y?

How can I do something like this so the window perfectly mulls next to one with plumb edge to plumb edge? And has all matching frame and sash and glass detail.

My comment had nothing to do with how to fix what got done. I was pointing out the key thing to do up front to avoid the issue. That little radio button for truss building. Fixing it after is simply a matter of setting the structure depth at 3.5 inches and setting existing roof planes at the right elevation for the truss build. But I think we all know that, and how to determine the elevation. The OP would be better off just deleting the roofs, carefully running all around the plan to edit room heights and walls in prep for an auto roof build, then autoroofing, and trussing.