GeneDavis

That's not its shape. From that peak's rear end the "ridge" of the cricket will be a level line across the upper roof over to the valley line. Manually draw a roof plane at that valley bottom, its baseline parallel to the work line you drew across the top, drag it up to that top, edit its pitch to have it ridge height match the canopy ridge, the edit in 2D plan to the triangular shape needed. Its fascia height should already be the valley bottom point where you started to draw the plane. Show us the result.

I saw that ceiling intersect as needing a custom molding. I'm a carpenter and have made and installed a lot of crown. No crown made for a 90 would look OK there. I'd install a bevel block first at the right size, then the crown used elsewhere. The bevel block is the custom piece. A 3D solid.

Take a section view, do CAD detail from view, draw the profile in place that pleases you, edit>cut, go back to section view, paste>hold position, convert to 3D solid, make it maybe 12" "thick" (i.e. length) so you can spot it easily in plan view, then in plan view drag its ends where they belong. Easier to do than to type out how. With my setup, it'll be textured concrete, so I'd have to paint it to match the other moldings. I just did a few of these in a plan to fill in some holes in drop ceilings under a staircase.

Hoe do you tag someone?

The very cool Metallark Tower, designed by one of the architects at SALA in Minneapolis. 20 foot by 20 foot footprint, some all-glass walls, a structural frame of corten steel that has half its members outside the walls, and a dead-flat roof with large overhangs done with purlins and heavy gage steel decking. I did a two-story box with 2x4 framing and no roof, and after getting help here with window shaping, can replicate the inside and the envelope with its glass, but is all the rest going to be an array of solids? I can do it readily, as I have already modeled the stuff in Sketchup, but are there Chief methods that will model the corrugated decking, the steel, etc? The rusty corrugated steel siding?

Thanks to all. I understand it now and can make things work for me.

Show me what you did, please.

What you show and what I want are two different things.

Looks like Elliott the OP has left the room, but here is my take on the "fill" for the crown.

I cannot do it cleanly. I want a window that is shaped with its left jamb leaning in 9.2 degrees. Exactly 9.2. I do the CAD workout to get the offset needed to be able to do the Chief dialog spec for "shape," but end up with those wild ears on the shaped side, and am unable to set the lower left corner at 0,0. Why can't this be done cleanly? Or can it? Certainly there is a need for such shaped windows, the same as a need to "shape" the top to match a roof pitch.

As for the crown molding, you can stack up any number of sections you need to decorate the tops of walls and talls. Experiment around in the molding dialog, adding sections, diddling the offsets, etc.

I think what Scott is talking about is what some in the truss biz call the California hip. I've seen it in pictures, but not in the field. In the two places I see builds, SW FL and upstate NY (two very different snow loads!), hips are done as per the arrangement in the lower half of the page, attached. Commons, stepdowns, girder, hip trusses, monotruss jacks across end and down the hips which are trusses. The CA way is to run a hip "joist," not a truss, but a member just like in a stickframed hipped roof, down from the girder truss and across the corner. This is what DSH is calling the hip beam. Note how the monotrusses have bottom chords that go under the hips and over to hang to the girder. Those monos and jacks are not triangular-built trusses, and I've no idea how they are handled in the field.

Nice arrangement and render. PBR?

And if you really want answers and fast, get used to posting the plan here. No need to give away secrets. Save a copy with some generic filename, strip out all the stuff that doesn't relate to the problem at hand. Terrain. Furniture. Fixtures. Cabinets. All the decorations. If it is over the 14 MB limit for direct attachment, zip it. If you'd posted a plan right up front, you'd be sure to have you answer by now, the right answer. Short of that, we are just guessing. And a lot of us don't like to guess. We skip your post. Remember Car Talk? That long-running radio show on NPR with the two brothers Click and Clack? Someone would call in and say something like, and I am paraphrasing, "any idea why my top of plate is locked?" The hook that show had, why you kept it on, listened every Saturday, was this: they made it entertaining, the way they probed and probed, funny comments and questions, while they drilled into the problem, to get to the solution. Well, this is Chief Talk, not Car Talk. It's not a live conversation, in which we can ask for more detail. So give all the details right up front, and you'll get good help, always. And fast.

How did you do that? I go into SHAPE for a fixed window, and the only thing that seems available to get anything is the arch panel, but none of those work for me. Edit: Further exploration into SHAPE got me fiddling with the TOP INSIDE CORNER spec, and I can sort of get where I want. Why doesn't Chief let you get closer to the corner than 1/4" in either x or y?

How can I do something like this so the window perfectly mulls next to one with plumb edge to plumb edge? And has all matching frame and sash and glass detail.

My comment had nothing to do with how to fix what got done. I was pointing out the key thing to do up front to avoid the issue. That little radio button for truss building. Fixing it after is simply a matter of setting the structure depth at 3.5 inches and setting existing roof planes at the right elevation for the truss build. But I think we all know that, and how to determine the elevation. The OP would be better off just deleting the roofs, carefully running all around the plan to edit room heights and walls in prep for an auto roof build, then autoroofing, and trussing.

Nice video for explaining, Eric. What Eric did is to build the roof auto and with that absolutely key step of specifying trusses right in the same box as where pitch is specified. That radio button for trusses, when checked, sets the baseline height (and structure depth) in accordance with the default top chord for trusses, which is set in the framing defaults. The out of box number is 3-1/2 inches for the top chord. It overrides that 9-1/2" depth you have for structure that keeps giving you that ceiling drop. See how in the section cut that the top chord sits precisely on the outer tip of the top plate of the framed wall below. That baseline point is up the vertical distance of the pitched 2x4 top chord. So if Eric had done an music audio track for his video, the big chorus with the drums and backup singers would have been rolling right when he checked that TRUSSES button.

Thank you!

Try breaking that front wall, the one that is the larger gable, but has the valley coming down a few feet from the corner. Put a break there, accuracy not important. Give the short wall a hip wall check in the roof section of spec dialog (the radio buttons that start with hip wall, then gable, etc.) and leave the section where gable as gable. Let Chief roof it auto.

I cannot find the setting for this. I am doing a simple circular "walkthrough" of a house, imagine a slow camera-drone circle up at 25' height above floor 0, big 350 foot diameter, camera tilted down, looking in at the -90 degree angle, the camera holding a constant absolute height. But Chief wants to move the camera up when over the steep uphill side, and down on the downhill side. This lot is a ski slope.

I have your plan open now. Your building is a very long way from the 0,0 origin in Chief space, and that can cause other problems, mostly in 3D viewing. But that is not relating to your truss thing. I don't see any roof trusses in the plan. I did all layers off and only turned on the framing, roof trusses layer (which was already showing me no content) and saw nothing. Here is a tip. Never begin to furnish spaces with cabinets, fixtures, lighting, furniture, plants, trees, anything other than building elements (walls roofs windows doors) until the building is done to the specs you need. And done means the building renders correctly, the way you expect, in plan views, elevations, sections, and 3D overviews. Something is off in the way you specified foundation, and I'll not look at this any longer until you fix it up and repost. I did an edit area thing to copy the plan without all the fixtures, furniture, etc., and pasted it centered on 0,0 in a new plan. Look at what a floor overview looks like for floor 0 and floor 1, attached.

Surface includes roofing and deck. Yours reads 5/8. Open it to edit. But that is not the problem here. I did not open your plan and so cannot comment on your particulars, but Chief considers the 3D space between the ceiling (defined by room spec if flat) and bottom side roof sheathing (i.e. that line drawn between the ridge elevation and the baseline elevation) the envelope for generating truss 3D. So whether your deck thickness is 1/16" or 16", the trusses that get generated in the space are identical. Roof sheathing and roofing thickness (added together are "surface") have no effect on truss generation. They built atop the Chief roof plane.

The OP asked for a room by room schedule, was shown one that was instead floor by floor, said hey that's perfect. Changed horses midstream. Hey, anyone can change their mind. So I'm asking, show us right here how to produce what the OP says is perfect.

PM can also stand for program magician, which in this case is someone that understands how to write macros. So will someone publish right here in this thread what the macros are for producing this?