dshall

That my friend is a super tip.

For you newbies, this is a very good tip. No downside but plenty of upside. P. "The Slab Man" still needs to go back to English 101.... weather or whether......... but who cares..... he knows his CA. Hey P., you and Penny still need to come out and visit with us some weekend..... figure it out....... we would love to see you guys for a weekend.....

I am on mac, I was able to open posted plan no problems.

Great question, I think you should add an additional layer on the inside of the railing wall.... make it 1/64" thick and it will be fixed...... I suppose you need another layer on inside of wall....

Interesting, you may order it like that, but I think my solution is still better for those that are clueless when it comes to ordering. I see what you did, you do not have a toe kick but a drawer-panel....... can you control the depth of toe kick? ...... if you look at 3d, you can see the z-fighting between the floor and the cabinet at the toe kick. I do not think you defined the side and stile extended down..... I think that was a result of what you built....... a different method, thanks Mark. Hey Mark, I am not sold on your method......... Mark, if ordering was not an issue, would you build it my way?

Nuts, what is wrong with the solution I proposed? You can see what it would look like using the method I proposed .... why is a psolid or a custom slab needed?

#2: that is probably a bunch of solids, tough to do that out of crown... I think #1: that is a 24" cabinet with a toe space with (2)2" filler cabs with no toe and the another 24" cabinet with a toe space. Cabinet feet might be an option but then you have to build your own toe out of a psolid and use cabinet feet.

I disagree, the extra dimensions are a part of laying out the foundation.... they are also a part of the overall dimensions.

You might try changing the dimensioning format as shown:

Hmmmmm, not having done it, I would think 2 sepate 2x4 walls. I think 2 sepate walls would give more control.

The fact it was not mentioned should give you an idea.

You are not missing anything. I do not use auto detail for this very reason.

So it is truly not "live".

You are correct, my bad. Here is the problem with putting the terrain on level zero...... the driveway will only be on level the level the terrain is on, so if the terrain is on level zero, you can only see the driveway on the level zero (foundation plan), I want to see the driveway on the main floor plan level (level one), so now to see the driveway on level one, I need to use level zero as my go to ref set layer.... if I do that, I cannot refer to the second floor with my ref sets.... i.e., cantilevered floors etc...... so.... that is why I choose to put terrain & driveways on level one. Of course if CA gave us the MMRLS, IOW the SUPER MRLS. i would not of needed to waste 5 minutes of my time posting this.

Yes, I turn the the terrain off in section view. I would rather not, but because I generally use a long FOCAL VIEW, often times the terrain if not flat, shows more than I would want to see. I suppose what I do is to have the terrain on to get the profile of the terrain at the line of section cut, I then use a psolid fill to define the terrain, and then I turn the terrain layer off. Not perfect, but the best solution that I know of.

If I had to choose either or, the way it is set up makes more sense to me because my clients would get the actual clear dimensions. But I hear your issue... I, like Joe do not know of a solution to get what you want.

Most likely this will work, but this may effect the room finishes and the ceiling heights... therefore, not a good solution unless you truly understand the ramifications.

I think I agree with this Trick? you want a trick? Try this, start the camera in the room that is dark, and then back camera out of that room into the new room. I think the camera will recognize light sources from both rooms. I use the renderings more than the ray traces.... the renderings are pretty good and much quicker....... point is, I am not quite up to speed with the ray trace capabilities.

A valid point, but I am not sure I think this will solve this issue. Yes, if you put the terrain on level zero, any cantilevers at level two will not remove the terrain. However, suppose you have a cantilever at level one, i.e. cantilevered bay/box window, that will now remove the terrain that is on level zero.... therefore the solution does not work for all scenarios. So I go back to putting the terrain on level one for reason's stated above, and I manipulate the terrain to show how the terrain is truly built.... model it like it is built. I never use the HIDE TERRAIN INTERSECTED BY BUILDING, this gives me the ability to do blah blah blah...... but what ever floats your boat is the best solution.

Interesting, I have decided that level 1 is the best layer to put the terrain on. Why? Because if the terrain is on level one, that would be the level the driveway would be on. Why is that important? Because if you have a driveway, by using ref sets you can show the driveway on level zero (foundation level) and you can show on level 2, just in case your driveway is on level 2 (i.e. walkout basement on level one with the main level on level 2). Now, if CA ever gives us the MMRLS, (the multiple multiple ref layer sets, IOW the SUPER MRLS), we could choose multiple layers on multiple LEVELS to reference and therefore, it would not be as important to put the terrain on level one. But back to the genesis of the post, I never use the HIDE TERRAIN INTERSECTED BY BUILDING, this gives me the ability to do blah blah blah...... but what ever floats your boat is the best solution.

Attach the plan..... but the quick answer is the soffit elevation is a function of the SUBFASCIA. If you post a plan, I bet you will get more answers. You have been around awhile, you know to post the plan for the best answers.

A thousand words.....

A solution is to cut that little wall out, move window over, and then put wall back in place using PASTE IN PLACE.

I never use the post to beam. It is difficult to control post locations and end of beam locations. My posts and beams are manually built. It is probably a faster way to get what you want. And the real advantage is, it now displays correctly in plan view.

lol, I look back on that post and I wish I knew what all of the acronyms were.