dshall

Yeah, that is one method, but I have to say, I have never used that method, it seems like there are faster and more efficient ways of doing that. I am not disparaging the method..... just different and more efficient ways of doing the same thing......

Thanks JC, you made my point, I do not think he is referring to what you are referring to. He must be clearer on how he would use it. Sent you an email a minute ago..... you up for golf this Thursday at the RBI at 12:30?

Let me rant just a bit, you made a statement that is very unclear. I think that if you really wanted to make a difference, you would explain how you would use this tool. As I think about your request, there are many different methods/applications you could be referring to. I am confused as to what and how you would use this tool. The muckity mucks at CA are constantly requesting that we be clear on what we are trying to do. I think if we were clearer on our desires, they will probably attempt to figureatededed out what you want. You would be doing us all a huge favor if you were more explicit in your desires. I bet that whatever you want, we can all use.

errrr, I think there is.... I think the multiple copy might work, and I think there is something else that I do not use......... but a hot key..... you might be right on that..... nuts...... you are probably thinking of an ACAD tool...... CA does not have what you are looking for....... I think thE multiple copy key is as close as you are going to get...... you know if Doug Park was not on his cross country bike ride, he would be all over this request....... hey Doug, when are you getting back?

I agree with Joe. You cannot do it with out a bit of futzing around. I disagree with JC when it comes to toe kick. I would still make cabinet 3/4" deep, shorten height of cabinet the height of toe kick, raise cabinet off floor height of toe kick, eliminate toe kick, make toe kick out of a solid.

Todd, after watching the vid, can you now build the dormer? When you built the initial dormer, you did not build it the way I would build it. If you are asking me to explain why yours is not working, I cannot explain it. All I know, is by using the method I use, I can make it work. If you build the dormer the way I suggest, and it still does not work, post what you built and I will look at it. I do not know how to do it any other way. I do not know how to do it using the method you initially used. You say you need some clarification, I do not know what clarification you need. I can not help you if you build it the way you initially built it. I am sure there are many other users that can make it work the way you did it, but I can not.

I turned all the obvious things, elec, cabs, framing,

Okay, my first foray into a multi unit project. 18 houses will be modeled in 18 different plan files. I would also like to have a site plan file with all 18 houses. The piece of property is not flat. I plan on creating symbols of all 18 houses to put in the site plan file. I am concerned with the size of the site plan file and if it will become cumbersome. I have created a few of the symbols for the houses. One symbol has 36000 faces and the other one has 78000 faces. I assume the other 16 house symbols will be of similar sizes. Has anybody done something like this? Has the plan file become too large? Is a symbol with 50000 faces a lot of faces? Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks a ton for any advice.

Here is a pic, your dormer on the left, mine on the right. I do not understand why dormers have to be so tricky, but they are. I have done many vids on this, (chief tutor.com) if interested. I do it a certain way, manually built always, maybe someone else can do it better, if they can, I wish they would share the secret.

Not true, follow what Jim said, you can break a dimension line into two separate dimensions.

Very interesting. I never noticed this behavior before. If the sill plate is wider than the stem wall, it wants to center itself..... I guess this is okay, when will you ever have a sill plate that is wider than the stem wall. If the sill plate is narrower than the wall above, the sill plate wants to center under wall..... I am not sure if this is good. If the sill plate is at least the width of the wall above, and no wider than the stem wall, it behaves correctly and aligns itself with the exterior of the stem wall...... this is good. If the wall above is wider than the stem wall...... all bets are off..... This is a real shame..... because this occurrence does happen..... To sum it up, best to keep the sill plate the width of stem wall, if you want ...... blah blah blah...... too many variables...... it seems like you should be able to specify any width sill plate you want and have it allgn with the exterior face of stem wall...... but it ain't happening.

This is so so so important for me. Please CA, make this so. I can not tell you how important this is for me. I understand that JC has a method to do it, I have used such a system in the past, but it is not reliable, therefore essentially useless for me. Out here in the land of fruits and nuts, the areas of different designated areas are used in so many calculations, that it is a chore to remember to update all when something changes. Again, this is huge for me, please make it so we can extract information from a polyline.

Here is the vid. Not perfect, but darn close. http://youtu.be/3LZ2cQpqK9k

Larry, I think I have this figured out. I will do a vid when I get a chance. It is virtually perfect. The "shards" you are getting is because you put the skylight in before you zeroed out the framing for the ceiling plane. There is also an extra SKYLIGHT SHAFT. There is a skylight shaft for the roof hole and one for the ceiling hole. Open up the dvx for those and change the materials and you will see what I am talking about. You can not get rid of the "shaft" for the ceiling hole yet that is where the last part of the problem is. Change that material to opening no material, and the picture will be perfect.

Larry, the quick and dirty answer is to SELECT CEILING PLANE, open dvx, FRAMING, change the RAFTER SIZE to a DEPTH of ZERO (defaults to 1/16). Now take a look. If this does not work for you, let me know and I will do a vid.

Larry, it might have something to do with........ Open CEILING PLANE Dbx, and go to options and either USE ROOM CEILING FINISH or THE OTHER OPTION. Let me know if that worked, not at office now.

Got it, you might want to post a simple plan. I remember this, I forgot the solution, maybe I can remember in the AM. ......... maybe I will remember in the morning....... Or maybe I will review the vid if i can find it...... Nuts..... I can't remember.

Larry, I assume you had hole in roof and ceiling and a shaft. Good. You did not placement of ceiling hole. You can move ceiling hole independently of roof hole. Cut a section and you can see shaft reposition

Wow, sorry, I thought the info might be helpful in that I do not know if I would have to go back to the super basics or not. But I am glad you got it figured out.

How long have you used this program?

Check this out, can not explain, but it may be a hint. A blue border represents the margins of the printable area. If the margins have been set to populate from the selected printer, this border may not display on all edges of the drawing sheet. See Printer Drivers.

Hey P., why aren't you listed here? Are you incognito?

True, but I think you might be happier if you use AN ACTUAL WINDOW for the access. Note that the access is typically BELOW the joist bay, therefore, the crawl space access can be an actual window. Check out this plan, the access is a window, and the vent is a symbol. Make sure that you have all layers on to find the vent. perrys vents.plan.zip

Dog gone you Perry, now you have me thinking. No, they are not windows, they are symbols made from a window. The problem with using a window is the vents are typically in the JOIST BAY, not in the wall itself. Windows will not fit in JOIST BAY. Therefore I had to make a symbol so I could locate in JOIST BAY and not in the wall itself.