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Everything posted by mtldesigns
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LOL... dang misquotes.
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Yes.. for this job, but it's ok... There will not be any problems on future jobs (I will use the advice you two gave). As for this project, this was a As-Build change. The builder in MI was going to use PT wood foundations (yes that's a thing) and because wood got so expense, they did a deep mono slab for frost and moved the mechanicals in the attic. I had this as an attic space too, so if I had planned accordingly, it could have been a room and then I could delete the ceiling in that room.
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So Canadians don't have a south? No wonder its always cold up there. But, I do as Chops states as well, in situations like this, draw individual lines and reverse. Less frustration IMO
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That did work, but can't be used here. The other side of that wall is a sloped (shed ceiling), so deleting the ceiling surface deletes it all. But I will use this on future endeavors that don't have this scenario.
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I've been meaning to ask this before.. when showing a attic access by converting a poly into a "Hole In Ceiling Platform", how do you get rid of the ceiling part that was cutout, and now attached to the roof truss? Its part of the ceiling below.. I thought painting it "insulation no gap" would work, and it did, but the rest of the ceiling in that room disappeared also.
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Highly Ornate Wrought Iron Driveway Gate Part II
mtldesigns replied to John_B's topic in Symbols and Content
Very cool John.. Very detailed too. I learned some new words today, like baubles. -
Ah, and your right. Just did one, not a group, worked as it should.
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Change roof plane to gullwing without rebuilding
mtldesigns replied to KReads's topic in General Q & A
thinking way outside the box here.. make a copy of the model.. do the autoroof on that copy.. then copy paste back into your orig model. -
that's what I thought also, but just like the example, I picked the ext. and railing wall, and picked the dim that was perp to it.. both of the walls moved, but the ext. and rail wall that was perp/connected to, did not move or adjust. I mean, I can work around this, no biggie. Bu thought as you did...
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sorry, not yelling in subject.. forgot to turn off caps
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Curious as of late.. but it seems that IN THE PAST when moving a wall via a dimension, that most of the time any connected wall moved as well.. esp. exterior walls. Why doesn't it do this any more?
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Actually these are two 20 year old's. They were looking for a tiny house, that you see on TV, but they realized those things are expensive.. so they went with the next best thing, a small build. Just not portable. They got some acreage and are going to live off the land as much as possible. Couto's for having a dream and going for it. Can't wait for my 28 year old to get her own place I typically make my interior doors 32", as well (36" on customers request), but since they are young, they were going to go "tiny", and the space for a extra 2" does change things. But since I've posted the plan, and updating the laundry, I have made all interior doors 30.
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My engineer tells me that if its residential, an engineer is all you need. When I do light commercial, I need both. Hasn't got me in any trouble, so it must be true.
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I actually like this better than vents in the doors/walls. Can put where needed. See, that what this forum is all about.. learn from others knowledge. Thanks
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How does that work Ryan? Is it ducted via the attic? I attached the floor plan (haven't move HVAC, WH or added Mini yet), but wanted to show arrangement. The blue circle is where I had planned on for the mini.
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Thanks all for your suggestions and info. Client loves the idea of the mini split, so will be moving WH to that niche, and getting her side by side back. Moving forward to complete construction docs. I am going to add some vents in doors for the mini to recirc.
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North Florida.. Greenville area. They have already purchased a 40 gallon elect WH... otherwise I would have suggested. They've purchased a lot of things already, like the shower pan, fixtures, and I believe LP vertical panel siding, because he's animate about on using it.
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Hi Adam, Where I lived before in Missouri, it wouldn't be required either. BUT here in FL., You will need that second set of eyes and that stamp, even though its not load bearing structure it still structure and could affect a high wind event.
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Using the shelving has saved tons of time.. great tool It is limited though, no miter cuts.. always square - rectangular.
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Well after I asked the question, my gut still wouldn't allow me to put off the bedroom, so I did create a little space for it. I had a hall laundry closet, that I stretched, pulled and moved around to get a utility space on the backside, I had to take away from the kitchen to do so though. I am trying to convince client, to go with mini splits to get some of that area back or get a bigger laundry for a side by side WD (as it was when located in the closet). I would think a 2 ton mini w heat pump would still be cheaper than a traditional HVAC unit. The house is 24' x 32'.
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On a small house that I am wrapping up (760 sq. ft.), I have put the mechanical equipment in the attic. Client want this on the main floor, accessed by either a bedroom or the bathroom. Both HW and HVAC is electric, so no fumes per say, but the gut is telling me this isn't right (or is it?). Looking through my pages of IFC and not really finding any info on this. Any help from you pros...
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Hey Eric, Can LeRoy let the program cut those, without having the program redo everything else and put back to the default? Looks like a lot of editing has taking place already.
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These both are great.. always wondered how they built up the flare. A molded poly seems like the easy way to go too. Thanks Mick, thanks Gene
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I'm excited about this new project. Going to be a design challenge, but fun.. and beautiful in the end. House is being build in Cape San Blas FL, so it will be on concrete piers, ~15' above grade, 2 stories of living spaces, and then a crows nest on the roof. A lot of challenges, and a lot of future questions on this forum as I get into it. Architecture style is Cape Cod meats Coastal Living. Client is from New Jersey. My first question, after you see the attached, is the exterior wall. Clients wife loves this.. and I'd like to get as close to possible. I can see the wall flares out near the bottom. Obviously this is a roof plane.. so do I build up this roof plane as I would the wall dbx? In regards to the vertical wall.. is it vertical or a optical illusion from this picture? My layout will not have such a tall wall, since we will be incorporating a lot of decking.. must have sight of the beautiful Gulf. Never have done a Cape Cod style before, wondering if any of you guys are experience on things I need to keep in consideration. I got me a book of 'A field Guide to American Houses" that was recommended on a previous post. that I am going to look at today, but always will take advice from you pros.