mtldesigns

Hey Chiefer's... I have a existing 8" CMU wall with windows that will be filled in with wood frame and drywall. This wall is now a interior wall. How do you go about doing this, and maintaining the openings for construction docs and details?

It is on D, now. But to gain C drive space, I had to removed DB. Even though DB is on the cloud, if you have it linked and have it accessible via file explorer, it took most of my drive space. I was unlinking, linking, it got to be a PITA, so I deleted it and I upload those daily projects every night. The explorer def made that part easy, automatic per say. So Charles, you only have the one drive and not a dual, a C and a D?

Not a bad price for a new rig. I think I paid a little less than that for my Alien about 3 years ago. I love this machine, doesn't give any issues (knock on wood) like my HP did. My only regret was not having a bigger C drive. I have a 230 Gig and gets max'd out very quickly. Always cleaning out the archives, and had to unlink Dropbox. Anyways D drive is great, 2TB. I am waiting to see how this runs with 13. still thought $3200 +/- is very decent, and a write off.

Nudura had all the testing data and that was presented. And as of yesterday, the permit was signed. Thanks for all the help gents. I have a new client in the same neighborhood, and even though its not a duplex, its close to neighbors homes and wood framed. Lesson learned form this and all your advice.

I didn't think so, but the masonry min. had me thinking. I attached the detail with my added notes.. this is what I re-submitted last night.

Thank you all for your input. I wrote this inspector a nice long email last night, after I summitted this question to you guys. The Nudura 6" core is a 4 hour rating, all by itself. I highlighted the Type X callouts with a border around that text on the Nudura details. And asked in this email why TWO layers of this X was needed. I can see maybe a stud wall, but a concrete core wall, scratching my head. However, I did not add any Type X under the exterior lap siding, but did add on the interior of the north and south walls. That wall is also a 4 hour wall. We resubmitted last night along with my email. Waiting for their response. Could Hardie board be considered the concrete exterior? Its cement based...

Like Glenn said, most likely the floor levels are not the same, can't imagine you'd have a bifold on an exterior wall. Also, check to see if the door floor to bottom is set at 0" on the door dbx (General Tab)

I have a ICF build duplex going through the permitting phase, and it keeps getting kicked back because of the firewall. I am wits end on this. We are using Nudura 6" blocks and they provided the nice Fire Wall Details, that I attached to my layout sheet. The building department wants us to double the Type "X" board on the firewall itself (that separates the units). AND double on the north/south exterior walls, since we are less than 10' from the nearest structure. YES, they want double X under the lap siding. I have never ever heard of such a thing. Does this make sense to anyone? I attached a couple of the details, but here is the the link to these and more firewall details from Nudura, if anyone is interested https://www.nudura.com/resources/design-library/fire-wall/ fw6d2b.pdf fw6d3.pdf

I had to give you a upvote Chop.. didn't like the (3) 6's on your reputation. Plus, you always have great advice.

See if I'm understanding, maybe I am not. You are using a standard switch, but when you connect more than one switch to that circuit, it does not update to a 3-way, or 4way? If this is the case, make sure the switch dbx has automatically chance switch type when wiring checked. That's the first thing I'd look at.

My clients like these as well, but like you said Rob, it clutters. So on every floor layout sheet I give then a room schedule, showing; Room Name, Area and Room Dimensions. This unclutters the plan for more important items. Going this route, all I need on the plan is the Room Label.

Or, you had this defined as a bedroom, deleted a section of wall where it was no longer a room.. but the label stayed. (has happened to me). The when you created the room again, a new label came in. Delete both labels, and check that room DBX. The other way is they way Chop explained. Create a room schedule, and find it via that.

Nice to be busy huh.. 3 is the max for me.. one man show.. plus 40 hour job elsewhere. Keep up the good work Rob.. that's why you have a nice backlog. Thanks Dustin... I do use these. Was thinking about the grains that Rob was asking...

This probably should be a suggestion... and maybe I will put one in... But what's the possibility of a creating a Chief Architect Catalog of downloadable textures as in what Rob is asking? As well as other textures and to be used for Bump Maps? Time is money, and it seams like there's always 3 jobs on the back burner, so spending time trying to create textures, find textures could be used more wisely. We sure don't need another Cabinet Catalog. Us Chief users could really use something like this, and appreciate it even more.

It always seems a "no def" wall doesn't do good in PBR.. or it could be my settings.. who knows. Those walls always seam to glow.

Nice looking house Roland.. saw the Saints on the big screen, then saw your from Orleans.. Way to represent! Use 3D plants when you can.. so much better that the images in a render view. You can change the sizes, rotate so no plant looks a like.

you did to Mark.. :-) Thanks gents

found it..

That makes sense, because the previous house I did a framing schedule for each wall detail and this was a save-is.. with a new wall schedule. How do I delete schedule that I cant see? The G schedule specifically.

Good morning Chiefer's, Starting some framing details this AM. I've done about 10 of these small house plans, and this one was a modification of one of those 10. Up till now, the framing detail always showed just the "T" label. This plan however is showing a G label as well. What is it? I pick it and its part of the framing member "T".. I turned off the Framing Label and it turns off.. so its part of the members, but I don't know what it is or how to turn it off.

type in split wired in your browser. I'm assuming this is what you meant.

Hey JP, Get used to using pre cut lumber lengths for your walls too. I don't know if this is actual assignment, if so, your tech professor will explain. In essence for a 9' ceiling, your rough needs to be 109 1/8". The finish ceiling will be be based on your ceiling drywall thickness, if strapping is needed (typical in the NE), and your floor finish. Study up on this, you might impress your instructor then. https://www.ezwoodshop.com/blog/lumber/lumber-dimensions-weird-2x4-lengths/ https://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/why-use-pre-cut-studs-for-framing-walls/ teaching a man to fish....

assuming your using premier x12?

try material region... Be in camera view looking at the wall you want to change.. Build>wall>material region. Draw a box.. thats your new material. Change it to what you want, then shape it with the grips. Read up on in, and there's vids..

Ah... manual ceiling plane.... gotcha! That worked.. thank you both! Dang misquotes, couldn't see the obvious.