mtldesigns

Interesting.. have you tried doing a complete wall, then removing the blank sections with a window pass through? Just throwing something out here. I would think this would keep your framing above, but I'm not guaranteeing that.

here are some training vids.. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos

You will design your homes as it is. Don't worry about the footing until you get a foot print of your home. The garage will be on the same level as your home (floor 1), but in the dbx of that garage room, you'll put in a negative floor height. I attached one I am working on now, this garage floor is -12" from the main finished floor level. If I read your question correctly, is it 30" that the home will above grade? If so, your garage floor will be -30". Once you get your plan straighten out, you then "build your foundation" using the pull down... This is how you get your crawl space. Pick the "walls with footing" then about half way down set your min. height of that stem wall. A crawl space is considered a stem wall. This will put all of your foundation on level 0. Hope this helps and gets you going. BTW there are plenty of tutorials out there to assist further. Start with baby steps, before you know it, you'll be running a marathon.

@Straight_Line At times like this, so you don't get frustrated, I'd throw a solid in that gap, put it to the thickness of your tile, and the same layer. Sometimes doors and invisible walls do this, and sometimes they don't.

I saw in there presentation video from last week, that the DW is now a standalone, does not need a cabinet (which is how its supposed to be). I believe she also said the countertop auto fills in. Dang, Jim beat me to your question

Ha.. I'm still using AutoCAD during the day, and then come home and switch gears to Chief. I take a 20 minute power nap so brain can re-adjust. In RE: to wall types and libraries. There are so many types that I have created over the years. ICF, wooden frames (2x, 4x, 6x, 8x...), steel framed, CMU, the list goes on an on. So instead of having a long library, I have a model that has a 12' long wall of each one I have created along the way (and I can keep the same naming method). I just copy and paste the wall I need once I start a new plan. Another benefit is this file in on my OneDrive folder, so I can use easily on my laptop too. The image is an over view

Do it the way Shane states. It's been this way for a very long time, and it is a PITR.

So this has to be up against the wall to work? Where I've noticed where it doesn't work is like steps to a porch post, or floating stairs (what I am working on now, that is not supported by a wall)

I've been meaning to ask this for a minute.. As the subject states, in the stair dbx, we have the option to "extend" top end or bottom end. What's the trick, because this has never worked for me? I always, have to model a solid for that void. Or is this something different than I think it is.. which is to extend the railing in either direction.

@capitaldesigns Hey Mike, Doing something like this myself as we speak. What you do, as Renee mentions, is create a room with the room divider tool. I always make this "wall" a layer that doesn't print in this case. Once you have the room sized, go to the room dbx and pick the "open below" option. You'll then see your stairs. Don't forget to turn that room label off and uncheck if there is a roof or ceiling above it.

@mlyner https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00488/creating-exposed-rafter-tails.html Check this out... see if this leads you in the right direction.

I'm not an astronomist, but I am pretty sure it doesn't. DST takes a play here too. Are you like really off on the shadows?

Thanks.. so you saw what I saw. I appreciate the input. The arrowed picture is perfect.

Starting off on a new 5k build. I will have the center main home, with two wings angled off on each end. I am no where close to being done, but every time I see this floor, it's driving my right eye crazy.. lol. Off the main entrance, the flooring is perpendicular to that wall, but as you go down the hall, that pattern is now angled. I am kinda ok with it like this in the hall, but the bedrooms, it just doesn't look right. Do you change this or leave as is? If I change the bedrooms, it will be an obvious clash in pattern direction at the hall. I was hired as a referral, because this home owner loved the idea of having realistic images of the build she saw I had did. So I want to present something pleasing, so her right eye doesn't go crazy like mine. Any ideas on how to make this better? I am open to suggestions.

@SH_Canada Thanks man, that was it.. I had it as default text style and not room label style.

I've been meaning to ask this for a while.. just didn't take the time until now. In my Plan Default Set all my room labels are Bold and underlined. Exactly how I want them, but in all my other plan views (electrical, kitchen and baths, etc...) the room labels are not bold or underlined. How and where do I get these to come in correctly on these other views? Thanks

@Alaskan_Son WOW.. So did I Larry. I'll have to read up this myself.

Look at your ceiling and your roof framing defaults. Your actual ceiling might be framed a different nom lumber width than your roof framing sizes.

YEP.. don't know why I had import anxiety on that, it was pretty simple.

I had to create a new layer set on this current plan that had a walk out basement. So I created a set for the foundation part of it, so I could detail the foundation separately from the basement plan. I want to copy this new set to my temp-plate file. But it looks like, from what help is stating, that all the layer sets get copied over. Is there a way to copy a specific set? And if not, will there be any issues if Imported that .layers file into my template, like will it create duplicates? I am assuming not, but want to make sure from you pro's. Thx.

I have a 3-planed ceiling, not really a cathedral, I need to put T&G pine on this in the direction showed because of the ceiling framing. How do I get this pattern to line up? I had thought to create a new material and adjust the center plane in the direction it needed to go, BUT when I do that, all three planes change... its acting as one. I did this ceiling using ceiling planes. Any ideas how to align? Thanks in advance

I'm not sure, but I would think there would be some manual components to it. Why is this needed is the first question, like is this for a future expansion? I guess how I would do it, is to put in a door opening, without jamb, casings, etc.. this will get you a framed doorway w header. Then manually, add the framing to enclose it, and drywall per side. This shouldn't take to long. I'd make it a block too, so if the door moves, you can move the internal components with one pick. Other than that, looking at the door dbx, I am not seeing another option, BUT there are many on here who are well versed in Chief that might know.. My $.02. Good luck.

That is really cool...

I don't get a lot of CMU houses here, let alone a two-story one, but this one I noticed the second floor exterior doors have a header underneath them. Is this typical for a CMU build? BTW, there is a header above the door as there should be. I checked and this is does not have a sill. Like I said, the CMU's I've done prior were single story, so if this is a common thing. Great, I learned something today. But the brain in me, says a header under the door, doesn't make sense.

DEFINETLY.. it sounds like she was talking to herself. Instead of two walls, why not build one wall with all you need, using a concrete exterior and a furred wall on the inside? In the wall DBX, unlimited options for building this wall out.