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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son
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You can do this with Box Construction>Cabinet Corner Treatment>Clipped. Just set the appropriate corner width. One little downside though is that you need a cabinet on the opposite side as well to stop that corner from clipping. It cab be a very small cabinet and you can put it on its own layer and turn the layer off, but it needs to be there.
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I don't know, but it just looks to me like someone is trying to set up a file sharing group with you. Kinda like a group folder in Dropbox but for emails maybe? I'm guessing its one of your clients or vendors.
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OK, that explains it. Depending on how you look at it you are either using the wrong macro in the right place, the right macro in the wrong place, or perhaps the wrong macro in the wrong place. Based on what it seems like you’re doing I would recommend just typing your scale in manually.
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What macro are you using, and is that an actual layout box or just a text box? If it IS a layout box with that scale macro in it, select the layout box and see what its scale is set to.
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Board Stretcher? I think DeWalt might even be coming out with a cordless model here soon.
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Ever have trouble losing the Extension Snaps/Snap Anchors that you really need and instead you keep picking up on others that you don't want? Here are a few power tips to help highlight some of Chief's handy dandy little tools that I think probably get overlooked or forgotten by the vast majority of us...'specially those of us what don't read the 'structions... We have a lot of special snap capabilities to control how snaps behave, but I specifically felt like offering some unsolicited pointers on-the-house regarding 4 of them: Edit>Preferences>Edit>Snap Properties>Options>Objects in History - This number controls how many Extension Line Anchors Chief will remember at a time. By default I believe this is set to 2 but it can be set to anything between 1 and 20. If you up the number to 20 you will probably never lose the Anchor you really want but you'll also have a whole bunch more of those extension snaps jumping out on you, so picking up on the one(s) you want might take a little extra effort. The "S" key - Holding down the "S" key temporarily overrides Object Snaps meaning you can stop Chief from setting any new Anchors while mousing around your plan. For example, you can set an Anchor at Point A, hold down the "S" key, drag your pointer through your minefield of potential anchors, release the "S" key, and then set an Anchor at Point B...and hold down the "S" key again if necessary while you wade back through the minefield again in order to find the intersection of those 2 Extension Snaps. The "1" key - Pressing 1 clears your entire Snap Anchor history (all 1-20 of them). We can use this to quickly clear the slate and start fresh anytime we mess up. The Control key - Okay this one seems a bit obvious but I think its easy to overlook some things about this one as well. The Control Key overrides all Snap behaviors including Bumping/Pushing, Angle Snaps, and Orthogonal Movement. I think most of us use this pretty often, but it can be overlooked as a handy way to allow a temporary override of these 3 items in particular. Holding down the Control key can allow us to drag an object closer to where we want it before releasing the Control key and then taking advantage of Snaps again.
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Go into Tools>Toolbars and Hotkeys>Customize Hotkeys, search for "Spin" and you should find the Start Camera Spin tool. Assign a hotkey if one isn't already assigned. You can then simply hit this key to start the camera spinning. The spin speed can be controlled by opening your camera specification dialog and adjusting the Incremental Rotate Angle...the smaller the angle, the slower the spin. Note that the spin speed will only adjust the next time you start the spin (spin speed will not change if you change number after you have already started the spin). You can also simply initiate the spin using your mouse by letting go of the mouse button while actively rotating the camera (done with a sort of flick of the wrist), but the spin speed is extremely difficult to control that way.
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I don't believe you're missing anything. As far as I know, those settings don't affect anything unless you specifically place an object on that layer.
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In my opinion? There isn't one. You can use all sorts of tricks to coerce Chief into modeling any number of non-standard roofs automatically, but I feel like it's easy to invest more time and expertise in doing so than it would have taken to simply model it manually. My suggestion to you is to learn and master the manual roof modeling tools. I think you'll find that once you've learned the tools, you'll have no qualms about simply turning auto off and manually modeling just about any roof you can think of. From the looks of it, that scenario would take about 30 seconds to accomplish by simply turning auto off and manually adjusting. Heck, I bet the whole roof would only take 5 minutes.
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Octagons yes. Hexagons, not quite as many.
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Are you saying you have a Hexagon window in your Core Library? Or are you saying there's one in one of the Bonus Catalogs? Regardless, assuming there is one (which I don't have in my library), the chances that the casing, frame, sash, etc. are correct are between slim and none, and the chances that the size is correct is even lower.
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Ya, you may never need a hexagon window again, but the same basics can be used to produce all sorts of other window shapes too. Its not too uncommon a need. In fact, it just came up earlier today in this thread... In that example though, you would use the Shape tab instead of the Arch settings. At any rate, I posted a link in that thread to a video I made a couple years back. Again, the window is a slightly different shape but the basics remain. P.S. I showed the Wall Cutout Polyline thing in that video as well.
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You can actually make a hexagon window using a Tudor Arch. It will be sideways though... ....so you have to convert to symbol, rotate it, set to Inserts Into Wall, and then adjust the Wall Cutout Polyline...
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Sounds like you must have used Rotate Plan View. That tool essentially just rotates the entire drawing board. You probably wanted to rotate the building and as such, should set the Plan View rotation back to zero and then use Edit Area to rotate the building and any other desired drawing elements.
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This isn't exactly like your situation but may give you some ideas...
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Lowered Joist Floor even with top of green plate
Alaskan_Son replied to chiefuser70's topic in General Q & A
I think I would use a different approach. I'll attach a quick example plan, but the main points are: Set Foundation Walls to Hang Floor Platform Above On Walls (Structure panel) Adjust Footing Width and Footing Offset (Foundation panel) Draw the little framed walls separately just inside your foundation walls using a wall type that contains only framing and that is set to No Room Definition Example plan.plan- 8 replies
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I don't know all your project details, but it can almost certainly be done automatically. The key is to do the following for all your As-Built components before turning auto framing on, and t's most easily done before drawing your addition although it can be done afterward as well (just takes a little more effort)... Group select all your rooms and check Retain Floor/Ceiling Framing. Depending on the situation, you may also want to put these rooms on a separate Slab Pour Number / Framing Group while you're there. Group select all your walls and check Retain Wall Framing. Group select all you Roof Planes and check Retain Roof Framing. Taking the above steps will ensure that none of the existing components get auto framed. There are more little details you'll need to work through to perfect the framing of your addition, but hopefully that should get you started on how to do it with auto framing turned on.
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Yup. Lots and lots of ways. A few more... 1. Use Copy/Paste Hold Position and concentric edit mode to move the copy (use the Concentric Jump distance). 2. Use Multiple Copy to drag out a new copy (use the Primary Offset distance). 3. Draw a line that simply snaps to the end point of your desired lot line and then move orthogonally (use the Tab key and then enter the desired distance). Many many more methods but those are just a few ideas to get the ball rolling.
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Living Area Square feet notation disappears.
Alaskan_Son replied to stevenyhof's topic in General Q & A
I think basement levels are always a little weird, both with regard to the Living Area label and with regard to the Plan Check tool. At any rate, you can trick Chief into giving you back your Living Area Label on Floor 0 by enclosing a little room off to the side that is completely separate from the rest of the structure. Now connect that room to the existing structure with a connecting wall. Now simply delete all those new walls. What's really happening is that you're tricking Chief into recognizing a new Living Area and therefore generating a new Living Area Label. When you draw the connecting wall, Chief considers them both part of the same structure and includes both areas in the total. Deleting the extra walls just deletes that one room and the new label stays. Also, you should be able to simply place the %living.area% macro into a text box to create your own living area label manually. This will alleviate the need to manually update any values. -
Interior of Wall exposed when railing is joined
Alaskan_Son replied to CanBuild888's topic in General Q & A
Post the plan and you’ll probably get a more definitive answer, but it looks to me like Chief is just unsure as to which of those three or four walls to join to which of the other two or 3 walls and in which way to join them and their various layers. There seriously might be 100 or more different combinations of ways that those walls and their various layers might be interconnected and Chief is just picking one that you don’t want. When those unique scenarios arise, we typically have to use either the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool, edit the wall definition(s), and/or use additional walls to help control the way they all intersect. in addition to the above, it’s also possible you simply have something set up wrong. It’s all guesses without a plan. -
Set a maximum building height using terrain plane?
Alaskan_Son replied to JillGold's topic in General Q & A
My suggested method is somewhat of a hybrid between what Eric and Lew have suggested. Please note that this is only what I would do in X10. It will work in X12 as well but X12 has some additional features that change things or otherwise make certain steps unnecessary: Copy/Paste Hold Position your Lot Perimeter polyline. Convert Polyline to Terrain Feature and set both the Height and Thickness to match your Max Building Height. NOTE: If you only care to see the uppermost limit then just leave the thickness at zero and you'll get something like Eric was suggesting when you're done; otherwise, you'll end up with something a little more like what Lew has shown. If you have Hide Terrain Intersected By Building toggled on in your Terrain Specification dialog then temporarily toggle it off. Take an elevation view of your Elevation Region being sure to place your camera somewhere outside of it. Switch to your All Off Layer Set and make sure all layers are turned off except for your Terrain Features layer and your Cuurent CAD layer (probably "CAD, Default"). Create a CAD Detail From View. Hit Control+A, and click Make CAD Block. This will make quick and easy work of finding the highest elevation of your Terrain feature. Activate your Place Point tool and double click at the top of your new CAD Block. This should simultaneously place a Temporary Point and open it's dialog. Under Current Location, copy the Y position value. Go back to your Elevation View, and click Tools>Symbol>Make Symbol Place the symbol in your plan and use Point To Point Move to position it exactly over your Terrain Feature. Open the Symbol up, set Elevation Reference to Absolute, and paste your previously copied value into the Elevation at Top field. Open up a 3D view, switch to Vector View and make sure the Elevation region and your new symbol are in the exact same position. Assuming they are, just delete the Terrain feature and toggle Hide Terrain Intersected By Building back on. You can now use some combination of layer display settings, material settings, Glass House Rendering Technique, Back Clipped section views, etc. to get what your after. I know that looks like a complicated process, but it only takes a minute if you're familiar with the tools; otherwise it might take a few minutes -
You shouldn't need to do that if you have Chief's out of the box Toggle Modes toolbar turned on...
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I can't seem to ditch the ceiling cover in the basement
Alaskan_Son replied to bdillard's topic in General Q & A
Just FYI because its somewhat related and may be the reason you got where you are, you can get this behavior with Automatic Foundations as well. From the Help files... Basement Rooms When a foundation’s type is Walls with Footings or Grade Beams on Piers, and it is assigned a Minimum Wall Height of 76” (1900 mm) or greater, the resulting basement is automatically created with a 4” (100 mm) concrete slab floor. and a default Floor Finish like that on Floor 1. Similarly, if a foundation is set up to have a Basement Ceiling Height of 72” (1800 mm) or greater when built, it is automatically given a painted drywall Ceiling Finish. See Foundation Panel. Regardless of its ceiling height, however, you can specify a floor or ceiling finish for any room in the Room Specification dialog. See Structure Panel. -
Save As without changing Layout link to current plan
Alaskan_Son replied to DzinEye's topic in General Q & A
If you do a Save As and change the Plan name, you will automatically unlink the new plan from the layout file. Chief has a goofy behavior though where the open layout will start displaying information based on the current plan file. The links are only temporary though and have not actually been changed. To address this, I usually just close the layout down and then open it right back up. Been that way for a long time. I really should report it. I don't like it. Is that what you're talking about? -
Just an optional approach, but you can always manually add a little "Snap Rose" to your plan that includes the desired angles. Then you can simply use the Make Parallel/Perpendicular tool...