Alaskan_Son

Also, in order for changes to the default floor structure to affect all existing floors, those floors would need to have the floor structure default box checked.

To clarify something here. Unless there's something I'm missing (and I don't think there is)...You can't change floor structure defaults anywhere EXCEPT the place I described. Any other changes to the floor structure are for that floor or room only and are not changing any defaults.

Edit>Default Settings>Rooms>Normal Room You can change the floor structure defaults in there and it will change the floors for entire plan.

This isn't a very fair statement. Almost none of the other 3D architectural modelling programs are backward compatible. Only program that I know of that is is Archicad and even that one isn't totally backward compatible. It requires installing and running a type of file converter which is in and of itself a bit of a chore from what I can tell. With all the changes and additional features, tools, functions, and capabilities it would be next to impossible to make new drawings work in old programs. Its really just simple logic and has nothing to do with a company's "structured development methodology nor rigorous QA".

Dennis, "Installation notes" and construction/fabrication details are one and the same for us as our cabinet builder does most of our installations as well. That being said, it still doesn't alleviate the need for face frame details. For example, take a look at the first plan I attached (Borchardt). That was an 8 foot long island built in one piece with custom stile and rail placement and widths. How else would you communicate that? There were similar details in the other plans I attached which is why I chose them. I understand that the vast majority of people don't need to show those kinds of details, however for those of us who do I was just wondering if anyone found a quicker way to do so. Most specifically, a way to keep it live.

You know Eric, you chose the perfect words to get people to use the right forum. Concise, to the point, and in an encouraging, friendly spirit. Seems like it would be a simpler thing to do, but usually it comes across as long winded or insensitive. Nicely done.

Ya, shipping is pretty expensive but there are a lot of other reasons too. Semi custom brands wouldn't do a lot of the things we require, it would be much more difficult to communicate all the little intricacies and site conditions even if they would, if something shows up incorrect or broke we're waiting another 4 weeks for replacements, the list goes on. Most people here still do order cabinets from the lower 48 though.

It looks like you do something pretty similar to what I do. The plans look a little different, but the basics seem pretty close. I'm thinking that the ability to snap to multiple cabinet components and the option to put door and drawer fronts, shelves, and other components on their own layers might be the way to go. I'll give it a little more thought and post a suggestion when I have the time.

I should probably stress that what I'm taking about is for totally custom cabinetry not stock sizes or even semi-custom.

Thanks Joe, When I get a few minutes to thoughtfully write up a suggestion I'll do just that.

Dennis, its difficult to explain exactly WHY we need to draw up face frame details because it can vary so much... Probably make more sense to just show you a few examples. I sort of freestyle these plans for the cabinet shop so they're not very consistent style-wise, however they get the point across. Borchardt island-Layout.pdf Emerson Residence 7 Cabinet Layout.pdf Heatwole Res. bath cabinet layout.pdf

We do a lot of custom cabinetry and our cabinet shop usually ends up drawing up their own shop drawings, however they draw those off the plans I give them and often times there are very specific face frame, shelf spacing, or opening requirements that I have and need to communicate to them.

In another thread Joe asked about how often we use 2D CAD tools which reminded me about something I've been meaning to ask for some time now. Do any of you draw up cabinet face frame details, and if so, how? What I do now is model all my cabinetry like normal and then: 1. Copy any number of cabinets and paste off to the side somewhere away from the rest of the model 2. Change all the door and drawer fronts to "Openings", change the shelves in the openings to "Manual", and set the number of shelves to zero. 3. Make a CAD detail from view 4. Add my dimensions. notes, etc. 5. Send to layout This seems to be the fastest and easiest way but its still a little time consuming. It would be nice if I were able to skip steps 1 and 2 somehow. Maybe one for the suggestion section. Anyone have a better way? The only step I think I could reasonably skip is step 3 but then dimensioning is a major pain. Only drawback of course is that the CAD detail isn't live and so any changes to the cabinetry model mean running through the steps again or making manual changes to the CAD detail.

I use 2D CAD tools very little as well. Off the top of my head, I use them for... -Temporary lines and points (just end up getting deleted) -To build custom mouldings -VERY rarely to clean up sections or 3D vector views sent to layout (more often than not, I'm just deleting lines and not adding them) -Occasionally to draw in a custom tub, drain, etc. when I need to draw up a custom 2D detail but don't need or want to take the time to model everything.

Or what Michael said.

Not sure exactly what you're trying to do with the cabinet and toe kick materials, but try this setting...

I am agree to Perry and Andy. Yes, only...don't do it twice or you will have regret.

Depends a little on your specific design, but I would personally build a deck without any walls and then build the rest with primitive tools.

Only problem with this is that marquee select places a box (aligned with the x y z axis) around the extremities of your polyline solid, so unless the edge you would like to make parallel is in line with one of those axis, it won't work.

It depends on a huge number of factors... -How good you are at what you do. -The overall quality of your design work -How complex your designs are -How many details you draw up and how detailed those details are -Whether or not you provide engineering and stamps -Whether or not you are licensed -The list goes on... 27 cents per square foot definitely sounds low though for just about any circumstance I can imagine.

I think the goal is to be closer to reality not further from it. Instead of an auto rotating sun maybe an added exterior light source option?

Can you possibly attach the plan? You will usually get a much quicker and more accurate response that way.

Another possibility as that your camera is not facing your model or is above or below it.

Try attaching the plan and we may be able to help you. It sounds like a hardware issue to me though.

Check your "All Off" layer set. There is likely a layer in that set that is on. They're called "All On" and "All Off", but if you're not careful you can inadvertently turn layers on in the All Off set and off in the All On set.