Alaskan_Son

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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son

  1. Exactly!! It's also a workaround if you simply don't know how to use it or if you once knew and forgot.
  2. I get what you're saying, but I think you may be missing the point and spirit of our suggestions. We are just trying to help and offer solutions using the tools we have. If a person isn't looking for solutions they shouldn't be posting questions. I for one am all for improvements so long as they are wisely prioritized and I am also fully aware of much of the other software out there and use some of it from time to time. I am also acutely aware of the fact that many of Chief's weaknesses are part and parcel with it's strengths. Yes you can build a house faster if you use more than a hammer and handsaw but don't underestimate the value of a well designed hammer and handsaw, and if you need another tool...buy another tool. Don't try to change your hammer to a nail gun and your handsaw to a chopsaw.
  3. He actually answered that question in his previous post... "In the end I used 2 triangular Polyline Solids to fill the gap. One the width of the exterior sheathing and one the width of the rest of the wall. This made it easy to match the materials of the interior and exterior walls."
  4. That does work, for anyone unfamiliar with it though... Just bear in mind that if you've customized floor coverings, moldings, wall coverings, etc. for those rooms then you'll have to redo all that work.
  5. If you look at the wall and fascia above, they both have a slight jog as well. Almost looks like they layout box has been skewed or something. All guesses without a plan and layout though.
  6. Just got back to the computer and tested out on my system. I have no problem whatsoever exporting and opening DWG's created using an elevation view. I suspect its something you're doing differently during you export process (Export Current View vs. Export 3D model or one of your export settings).
  7. No. For that, use the Match Properties tool I previously mentioned. If you're not sure how, check "Help". Make the help files your friend. They're an invaluable ally.
  8. The only two methods I know of ( in a nutshell ) are to either build it completely from scratch, use material regions to cut holes in the wall finishes, and manually modify the framing... Or, create a window symbol with the shape at the top, flip it upside down, and then manually patch that little triangle area with a polyline solid or whatever. I'm assuming the latter is what Rich did.
  9. Assuming I know what you're doing (which I'm pretty sure I do)... One of the quick solutions I've found that works pretty well to "patch" things like that (or other odd problematic wall joints and extraneous lines) is to first create a wall material region that covers the entire wall. That alone will often alleviate the extraneous lines in many situations, but in your situation you'll probably have to go to step 2...Convert to Plain Polyline and then Convert to Polyline Solid. This is a very fast way to create a polyline solid shaped perfectly to cover your wall. This way you can reshape it to fit around your custom window (and get rid of the other patches you likely had to use. Depending on the situation, you may also want to adjust your wall definition to accommodate the extra polyline solid and/or adjust the window settings to accommodate the same. You can also explore using multiple single layer walls instead of one solid wall. Anyway, just a few ideas I've used that I thought I'd throw out there.
  10. There are at least a couple ways to do this... 1. Select your modified symbol and click Add To Library. Then open your cabinet, select that face item and then choose that item from your library. 2. Just give your cabinet the proper opening size and manually position your appliance using plan and elevation views. I personally use the latter technique almost exclusively.
  11. Weird...I responded earlier but must have forgot to click "post". My question... Are you using backup entire plan (which puts plan and all textures into a single folder)? If not, you're aren't transferring any textures. It might just be that your texture discrepancies between machines is growing larger so it feels like X8 has gotten worse when in fact you may not have been backing up plan correctly all along. Just a guess.
  12. A preference or default would be nice, but saying it's way too many steps is just sillyness. It takes 3 extra clicks and a few seconds...big deal.
  13. Should be quite easy. Just use an exterior room molding polyline. 1. Click on your "exterior room" (the perimeter of your house should be highlighted). 2. Click Make Room Molding Polyline. 3. Set a molding profile for your brick water table (might need to make one yourself). 4. Set the material for that molding to brick.
  14. I understand using a little hyperbole to prove a point, but this statement is simply not true in any sense of the word. Using the steps I mentioned in my previous post I can create a material list for any given room in 15 seconds or less.
  15. There doesn't seem to be a default setting for this (although I could be missing it). You can simply hit the P button though to toggle the crop mode on and off.
  16. There IS a way... 1. Make Room Polyline 2. Hold down C (concentric edit mode) and resize the polyline using one of the corner edit handles so that it is past the midpoint of all the walls. 3. Convert Polyline to Materials List Polyline 4. Click Calculate Materials List
  17. I think I would probably use a couple wall material regions. Some variation of this (maybe using a moulding polyline or a 3rd material region for the frame or casing if you want it)... Access panel.plan
  18. For the screen you can also use windows with a very large number of Lites and very narrow muntins...
  19. "I go back to my initial question, what is the difference between the two attic spaces in post 13?" For starters, your "mansard" roof is not above the top story. Its also concealed as opposed to many attics that have an attic access. "Which of the two spaces is a concealed space and what is the definition of a concealed space?" Your "mansard" roof area is a concealed space. I'm not certain of the exact definition of concealed space. I actually believe that the fireblocking section is the only place in the entire IRC that uses the term. It seems pretty clear to me though that its any space that's inaccessible and that can serve as an easy pathway to allow fire to travel from one area to another. I kinda think that any area or transition a firefighter can't easily access or visually inspect could be considered "concealed". I think you just have to use some judgement...might be the reason they left the definition a little vague and open to interpretation. This seems like a decent article on the subject though... http://www.fireengineering.com/articles/2011/08/havel-concealed-spaces.html "Which of the two spaces is a horizontal space..." In this case, the triangular shaped pathway created by your "mansard" roof. BTW, I used quotations around the word "mansard" because that particular roof isn't what I understand a mansard to be. All good. I just don't want to be the one responsible for redefining terminology (at least not in this case) : )